HadesOmega

I swapped a 82 L28ET into my 76' 280Z. I noticed when I revved it would backfire a lot so I installed my MSD 6A and it revved a lot smoother. I also had it gapped to .040. Took for a spin today and it intake backfires after about 2500 RPM. So far to fix this I have gapped plugs to .030, set base timing back to 15 degrees, and disconnected the TPS. I read from other posts it could be the TPS and I should disconnect it and see if thats the problem, did that and it actually had the same problem but ran a little worse. Previously the engine was running rough during cold start and I cleaned all connectors with with contact cleaner. I also made sure all my injectors were the same. Wierd thing is when I got the engine it came with these teal (sky blue) colored injectors. I heard they were suppose to be brown. But I also heard that you will be fine with NA injectors at stock boost levels. I noticed that when i took the thermostat housing off that there wasn't a thermostat also, maybe they were trying to run the engine cold to compensate for leaner injectors? But I don't htink this is my problem could it? Below 2500 RPM it runs great I can boost fine but after 2500 is where it starts stuttering and backfiring. And suggestions?

I just finished doing a rear disc conversion on my 76 280Z. I think i used 240SX calipers, it was a while since I installed em and picked em from the yard. Then 240SX rotors and 81 Maxima caliper brackets. I bled the the drivers side rear first which I heard is wrong but I bled that first and it seemed fine fluid would come out of it. I bled it with a vacuum pump also. Then when I went to do the passenger side all I would get is air maybe a little fluid didn't seem the same as the other side. Also the passenger side is the side I blew my wheel cylinder on so I assummed it would take a while to bleed all that air out of it. I even had someone help me bleed it the traditional way and doesn't seem to help either. Then i took it out for a drive and man the pedal hit the floors and barely grabs. to get it to grab more I have to really pump the brakes then I'll have enough pressure. What do you think the problem is? I'm still running the stock size master cylinder I heard we're suppose to upgrade to a 15/16th size 280ZX master cylinder so it'll have enough volume to push the pistons. I'm thinking it could be my booster also O_o. I also heard we're suppose to get a 280ZX proportioning valve, where in the car can I grade one of those? My cousin tells me its built into the master cylinder in some cars.

Wow awesome, Where'd you get that intercooler? It fits perfectly in there and its HUGE!

someone should translate the manga, i got the 1st four volumes I 'm a scanner for Mangacity for the manga Over Rev! another manga about race cars and stuff. If someone were to translate the text in each box I could scan and edit them.

Hmm not sure but I think those are Riken Mesh, they're pretty big right? Found em one time on a starion at the junkyard 16 inch but it had locks on it =( Anyway very nice wats! 16 inch no less those must've cost a grip, good thing you bought locks for em. I plan on getting some 15 inch Rewinds (yeah I'm poor) sometimes.

yep sounds like valve stem seals to me, my eclipse had the same problem the vacuum needle would kinda vibrate.

kewl thanx got em pretty fast. Doesn't play on any of my DVD players But it does play on my computer. I reencoded it with DVDshrink though and reburn it, now it worx on my PS2 Hmm apparently the one that I had watched b4 was Shin Wangan Midnight I thought they'd just mixed some different cars in to replace ones in the manga but doesn't look like it O_o'

Well if you look at the aftermarket wheels they have different offsets. So you'd want something thats pretty flush to go with the wheel or else it'll be up in your face. If you look at a lotta stock wheels like ours for example its offset so the hub part sticks out a lot more. Here's an example from my eclipse with a Nardi Wheel

thanx, funny thing about that blue. Its not stock blue at least the hood isn't, it looks like the previous owner painted it using a paint roller haha. It looks nice on camera but its really dull and chipping if you look at it up close. Next summer my project is to repaint it midnight blue.

wow gotta love that torque can't wait to dyno mine It won't be nearly as high as that though.

aww rice if anything it needs more rice haha. But I would agree that a Z looks good stock. I think the shiny muffler goes well with the chrome bumpers. I'm still debating wether I shoulda got a 3" is there really much of a difference. Its a little too quiet haha. I kinda miss the caged animal sound of the open downpipe.

wow thats pretty cool. I know SW20 MR2s have electic powersteering. If you wanted to put together a system from junkyard components theres one alternative. I can live without powersteering in my Z though, unless I have to park it in a tight space O_o'

this thread is awesome. If anyone doesn't know what wangan midnight is, its a manga (japanese comic) about a dude that drives Akuma no Z or The Devil Z. Its a badass S30 that can outrun high powered japanese cars on the wangan (bay). They've made it into two videogames too one for PS2 and on for the arcade. and of course they made these live action movies that are near impossible to find. here's the intro for the PS2 game: http://www.paper-momo.com/hadesomega/misc/wanganps2intro.avi

So it doesn't clunk when you get on the throttle like if you blip it in gear?

Yep I finally have turbo FR action now! I blew the headgasket on my stock L28 so I decided to just buy a L28ET with the ECU and harness. I was originally going to just turbocharge the stock engine but it'll never pass a smog check in cali since its a 76 []. Anyway it was my summer project and my first full engine swap. If it wasn't for zcar.com and hybridz.org forums I don't think I couldn't have finished it properly (I'm a dunce when it comes to wiring) oh and of course the S30 and S130 Haynes manuals too. Even though its a basic swap that didn't require any or much fabrication it was a good learning experience. It runs now, its just still got some small bugs to work out like the speedo doesn't work right now O_o' but its running pretty well. I haven't gotten to drive it much though because after I had the exhuast installed one of the rear wheel cylinders blew and I lost brake pressure. So its sitting in my driveway awaiting a rear disc conversion. Here's some small specs on the engine. Its a L28ET from a 82' 280ZX turbo. 165 psi compression! Boosts 7 psi stock (for now []) Stock T3 Turbo 2.5" turboback exhuast (maybe I shoulda went 3") Non intercooled for now RX7 front mount oil cooler with a cooleradapter from a auto 280ZXT I plan on increasing the boost to around 10 psi and install an intercooler, EGT gauge, turbo timer, 1G blowoff valve, T3/T4 turbo. Wahaha so not only do I have 3 different driving platform cars at my house they all are force fed Turbo Eclipse, Supercharged MR2, and Turbo 280Z. Another cool thing love is that it doesn't really look any different than it did b4 (cept the big *** oil cooler), that is until you hear the turbo spoolin mwahaha. The full album and project are on my imagestation account (its LONG) at: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2122963601

Wow your right I figured it out [] I had the vacuum connections for the EGR on wrong. The EGR was connected to the manifold and the one way check valve was connected to the EGR. I guess when hooked up the VCM I didn't carefully trace the vacuum tubes to where they went I thought they all went to the manifold [] Does anyone know what an 82 turbo injectors are suppose to look like? Like CJarloz sez and from what I hear they're suppose to be brown. One thing i notice is when I listen to them click with a stethescope the teal ones click a lot louder than the black injector O_o' I've been collecting injectors for years and I have some brown ones is there anyway to tell for sure if its for a turbo. The teal ones could be just aftermarket ones? another quick question is is there a certain way to hook up the knock sensor? does the red wire go on the right or left or does it matter?

I finished my 82' L28ET swap into my 76' 280Z a couple weeks ago. It runs but it doens't run very well. it gets -19 on the boost gauge at idle when I first start it up. But if I rev the engine it'll start dropping to like -10 and start running rough. I've cleaned all of the harness connectors, checked vacuum lines, changed TPS, changed in 2 other AFMs, and found out I had 2 injectors connectors in the wrong place and swapped it the way it should be so it starts up better now. When I drive it I notice I hear pops whenever I slow down or brake. I did change an injector that I thought was bad. I have these light blue or teal colored injectors in 5 of the cylinders and 1 black one that I put in. I always thought those black injectors with the wierd looking tip are for turbos but those teal ones have a normal looking tip O_o. Could that be my problem? My ignition switch is wierd also for some reason if I turn the key all the way on start it won't start I"ve noticed. It'll just keep cranking. But if I turn it just enough to crank I noticed the yellow floor temp light goes on and the seatbelt light goes on and the car starts. Does that mean my ignition switch is on its way out? anyone had similar problems and found a fix?

Sorry I searched and I couldn't find a definate answer. Just got done with my L28ET swap into my 76' 280Z and I can't figure out where to connect the water temp sensor to. I remember that it connected to the efi harness on the old engine but then it just disappears somewhere. If anyone has done it before can you point me in the direction I gotta look for the wire that goes to the gauge.

Here's a little info for Metro and zero. I'm currently doing the wiring on my 76 280Z for the 82 280ZXT harness I got and looking at the guide I quickly got frustrated because nothign was adding up. but fyi the quick turbo swap write up metro mentioned is based off of a 81 ZXT harness which is slightly different from the 82-83. There is indeed a 8 pin connector under the dash that I supposedly that splices into the ignition somewhere, I think it connects to the ignitor and some other stuff. In the 81 harness this is the 6 pin connector metro is talking about. The first picture that is what this picture is now the 4 prong is what stumps me. I have a 6 prong connector in the engine bay by the FI relay. And it supposedly has 3 wires that are in the the guide, the green wire goes to a constant 12V so I just connected it to the positive terminal and then 2 more go to a switched 12V source but I don't know where I can splice it into O_o' anyone have a wire I can tap into near the battery in the engine bay? (when it comes to wiring I'm not very good >.<) quoting from the guide -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) -Blue with red stripe - is switched power for your fuel pump relay (has 12+ volts when key is on, will have power for 5 seconds if car is not running to prime the fuel system, and will have a constant 12+ volts when car is running.) The yellow and white wires you see bent off to the side you will not need and wont be using now I don't know if this is right though because I have a 6 prong which the 81 apparently has also according to the guide because I have the two white and yellow wires it sez to discard but you only have the yellow. But if the guide is correct you only need 3 of the 4 wires to be used. Now for where the 12V switched wires tap to I'd like to know myself anyone? I'm going to take another crack at it tommorow so I'll report my findings. You should really start routing the harness through the engine bay and hooking stuff up. That's how mine is right now and I've only got the 2 connectors to worry about now. Of course your doing a non efi car so you'll need to drill a hole or something in your firewall to cram it all in there. Good luck.