HadesOmega

HI sorry to resurrect an old post, well I gues its not that old. I was wondering what was making your car fail? The last time I got a smog check I passed with really good results now I'm getting really high CO. I'm thinking it is the catalytic converter its one of those 2.5" high flow cats. They said it might be the injectors but they seem to be working fine. Bleh I wish I had a 75 280Z hehe... Mine is a 76 with a L28ET

I've seen those on ebay similar anyway they have one for a skyline right now just type in "external wastegate adapter"

Yep thats right its an electrical boost signal unit that sends the boost signal to the boost gauge into the car it has no effect on the ECCS system at all just to tell you your boost, that's why I chucked it when I did my swap and installed a real boost gauge.

Too bad it doesn't have an EGR tube, trying to make my Z california legal =(

I think it 15/16th I just destroyed mine wish they made it so you can get an closed end wrench on it =(

I did the H4 conversion with the housings years ago and they turned out good. If you want to get the most out of them though you'll want to wire in a relay first.

yep that was me

1976 280Z /w 82' ZXT engine

hmm that sounds very interesting, trick the ecu. Just wondering but for the turbo engines is the only thing that the ecu reads is cylinder head temp and not the coolant temp? If I remember correctly its the CHT that the ECU bases how hot the engine is.

I have a 1976 280Z with an 82 turbo engine in it with the stock ecu and all. I also have a electric cooling fan with thermostatic switch that I can adjust. The engine came with these teal injectors that are obviously not the stock turbo injectors but the car ran at 12:1-14.7:1 AFR when warming up. Now I installed the brown injectors and it idles and cruises at 10:1-11:1 AFR. I notice when I'm driving the water temp needle never goes past half-way, it always a tad below it. Not enough to take it out of cold start mode unless I let the car sit in one place. I know its not the fan also because I adjust the temp higher and it doesn't do anything unless I'm sitting and the temp goes high enough to kick it on. I like the brown injectors because they're better for when I boost, the teal ones have this problem after a while it just goes lean under boost and I have to reset the ecu. anyway how can I get my car to warm up faster so it doesn't eat up so much gas. Should I get a hotter thermostat? What thermostat are the turbo guys running? Its summer and its still overcooling O_o. Why is the ecu so picky about the CHT temp when warming up garghh...

fyi the ignitor should have a ground wire coming out of it connected to the chassis

wow I like how you made that bar that attached to the horn mounts, I just got my stuff zipped tied to those =P I take it your not using the stock ecu?

yeah mine is pretty loud too I took her out for a drive yesterday after I finished up my flares and boost controller install and noticed I can hear it over my exhuast, I got a 2/12 inch exhuast. Its louder than the t3/t4 that's on my eclipse

don't forget your gauges make sure you got a: Boost Guage (one with actual numbers on it) AF ratio gauge EGT gauge that way you can tell if your going to blow it up.

I just bought a HF helmet the solar powered one and I love it, but that's coming from the standard helmet and the cheap o face shield that came with my HF welder. I've only had it a coule weeks though but its pure luxury compared to b4 I'd get blinded a lot. My welder is kinda weak though so I don't know how it'd do with a really nice powerful welder. From what I can see it acts like a pair of those torch glasses then when it senses a bright spark it gets dark like a welders mask. It gets dark just fast enough so you won't get disoriented by the flash, kinda wierd explanation its not perfect but its good enough. I don't weld often also...

hmm my eclipse has a aftermarket turbo kit and I upgraded my vortech FMU to a SFMU. Its an adjustable fuel pressure FMU, with this you can run bigger injectors so you don't have to run crazy fuel pressure.

Should have room for an oil cooler I did http://www.paper-momo.com/hadesomega/carz/Pictures/Sic16.jpg yeah that's a pretty shitty turn signal job here's where I put my filter and AFM http://www.paper-momo.com/hadesomega/carz/Pictures/Sic19.jpg but it look like you have something where I have mine, I took my AC compressor out. I would stay with 2 inch, but it depends on how much boost your planning to boost. More boost bigger pipes.

it sounds about right that's a lotta stuff your including. But like you said its old school carbed turbo, it'll work but its harder to manage than a FI turbo at least from what I hear so it might scare buyers away. But I'm sure if you find someone with money and some know how that'd take it off your hands. That's an expensive turbo though, my T3/T04E ball bearing turbo cost almost that much...

Only car I've really drifted in events was a FF. Up to a certain point a FF can out drift a FR I remember when I was drifting with newbs in their ae86s at the track couple years back and my car looked better than theirs. People would always ask me is your eclipse AWD? I'd go nope F dori baby. Anyway its true you can't hold a drift for long and your dependant on how much speed you can get to carry you through the turn. You can do any drift in a FF manji, choki, inertia, powerslide (course it'll be understeering), etc... at least I have. Suspension setup is important in a FF car you gotta set it up for maximum oversteer or a good amount. So you were drifting at Irwindale on the oval? I know during the drift days they do it autox style so there's nothing to hit. A good beginner's drift car is a S13 its cheap, got decent power, lotsa parts, and relatively easy to drift stock, but that's what I've heard I haven't driven a S13 for like years and that was when I wasn't drifting but if all the other drifters use its gotta be good. Here's an example of circle drifting gymkana style with a FF You can do cool stuff like this in a FF also http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5358055751696287242&q=gemini

the 81 has a resistor pack for the fuel injectors right? The connectors are different also I think never seen an 81 =P you can probably get it to work with a 81 engine with 82 harness and ecu.

I figured I should make another thread saying how this stuff works just in case someone with a similar setup runs into a situation like I did. Basically the the Apexi Turbo Timer works as a Power intervention timer box. It senses when power is given or taken from a certain wire and it intervenes the loss of power to that one wire which is where the ignition and fuel triggers are in my case. The Apexi turbo timer also comes with a O2 Sensor reading function that will calculate your AF ratio and display O2 Sensor voltage. It also has a parking brake safety function where if you forget to engage your parking brake (or someone tries to drive off in your car while its timing) it will imediately kill the engine. Now some info on my setup. I have a 1976 280Z with a 1982 L28ET engine with stock harness and ECU. I'm sure this setup will work with other setups close to what I have just need to get a little creative. The way I have it wired up is I have a hidden kill switch in my car and when I turn it on it gives 12V power to the ignitor trigger wire and fuel injection relay trigger wire. From the FI relay it activates the pump. I use the key to crank the starter. This is how I got the turbo timer to work. I connected the kill switch and red wire on the turbo timer. Then I connected the the other wire coming out of the kill switch to the green wire on the turbo timer. Then on this wire I tapped in the ignition and FI relay wires. This way the turbo timer gets 12v power when I flip the switch powered the turbo timer and the igntion/FI wire at the same time. Then when I turn the switch off the turbo timer provdes power to the green wire keeping the ignition and FI on until it s done counting down and kills the power going to the green wire which turns the car off To get the O2 and AF ratio functions to work on the turbo timer you have to tap the white wire coming off of turbo timer to a black wire that goes the middle ECU connector on the harness. If you want to use the O2 function according to the manual you need to use an ECU ground also, I guess it wants you to use a ground as close as possible to the O2 sensor wiring on the ECU as possible. If not you just ground it to the chassis. Also the grey wire goes to your parking brake switch. I didn't utitilize it so i don't know if it works with the Z. The way it works is if 12V power is applied to it during the countdown sequence it will imediately turn the turbo timer off. The setup works but when you turn the kill switch off the ingition and Fuel injection loses power for a second but not enough to kill the car. Here's a diagram I drew up with photoshop to illustrate the installation. Hopefully someone finds this useful.

Well I figured out the problem. I always figured that the turbo timer worked kind of like a timed relay. Apparently it turns the TT unit on when it senses power when you switch it on IGN1 and when it senses that you've cut the power it keeps providing power to that one wire until the timer is done counting and kills the power going to IGN1. I just tapped the ignitor/FI wires to the wire going from the switch to the IGN1 wire and it worked. Man I don't like the way they had this turbo timer function. The IGN2 wire is apprently there because some cars want two wires powered up for the car to stay on, but I guess since I have the ingnitor trigger and fuel injection relay on one wire I only need one wire to connect it to. I was hoping it functioned like a relay its more like a power intervention timer box. It does work but when I switch the kill switch off it loses power for a second and kills the ignition for like a second and then the turbo timer gives power to the wire until the timer is done counting. Anyway it worx I included a diagram to show what I'm talking about.

ok I just installed a Apexi Turbo timer into my 76 280Z with an 82 turbo engine. I had to hard wire it because I have a kill switch for the my ignition so I have it wired up a certain way. There are 3 wires on a connectors Red, Blue, and Green The red is connected to 12V constant under the dash The Blue is connected to the kill switch The red wire on the turbo timer and kill switch are both connected to the same 12V constant just I can trick the blue wire into turning off when I flip the switch. The Green wire is connected to the ignition and fuel injection relay. Then theres a black wire that goes to ground and a white wire that goes to the O2 sensor. There's also a grey wire but its not hooked up its the parking brake wire instructions say you don't need to hook it up. Anyway here's what happens when I flip the switch. The turbo timer turns on but the ignition and fuel injection relay don't turn on. So that means the Green wire isn't energizing when the turbo timer is on. But here's the catch... I turn the switch off cutting power from the blue wire and it counts down like it should but the ignition relay and fuel injection relay turn on but it still counts down and turns off after its done countinig. So for some reason its no turning the green wire on until I turn the blue wire off again. I tried wiring it different ways and it doesn't work, I think I may have a defective turbo timer what do you think? I know its not one of those fake ones also.

I've seen just about everything new that's come out in japan through fansubs currently I'm watching: Black Lagoon The Third Aoi Hitmoi no Shoujo Fate Stay Night Utawaremono Ergo Proxy Blood +.. to name a few I also color manga as a hobby with photoshop and I scan Over Rev! for MangaCity http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2132677578 As for Wangan Midnight fansubs there is no Wangan Midnight anime so no fansub. There is a manga being translated by ncw@rizon.net or http://www.wangan-midnight.com/ There's a live action movie and the videogames also.