Here comes trouble
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Posts posted by Here comes trouble
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If you want to flare and coilovers for rear......295 or 305 by 50 BF Goodtich on 15X10 with 3 1/2 inch back space. This GTO kit is not lowered and even lowered with large diameter springs will fit...The wheels are off the Tomahawk project. 265X50 on the front may cause interfence with stock Datsun inner fenders http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=d674.jpg&.src=ph
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At a gareage sale, I offered $1.00 on this edelbrock carb. The seller said for five dollars, he would throw in a gasket set, new ignition points and a chrome water outlet. I thought the gasket set was for the carburator base but was actually a complete gasket rebuild set for a 350 SBC.http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=fbaa.jpg&.src=ph I have enough parts except for the stainless steel bolts to put my "stripped" SBC back together for the Tomahawk project http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=2a8e.jpg&.src=ph
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I would seriously consider setting up some surveilance cameras in the work area. Study thier habits and catch one of them. Just imagine what they could perform under adult supervision. I just want to get rid of mine since they seem to tear everything up.
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Watch eBay.... coil overs usually come up in pairs on a regular basis in 10, 12 and 14 inch with a wide range of spring weights. search these key words Qa1 (Carrera), Hal, Spax, Hypercoil, Hyperco, Afco, Howe, Ground Control, Eibach, "coil overs", coilover springs. and surf right on past the "buy it now" crap ! my last set was a pair of 225# new 10 inch Hypercoils at less than 30.00 total. I want about 3 pairs so I can do some swapping...150-180-225
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Bill......The VW trim rings come off the later model bugs and vans. I made a retaining hook to secure the top of the trim ring and a temporary screw for the bottom. The VW trim ring just fits over the headlight bucket and on my application there is no interference with the plexiglass headlight covers.. Since I mastered this picture posting... I will show more details when time permits.
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JON: looks like a strong case of denial in the engine
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Can you imagine the air body saw seems to operate better since I found the Marvel Air Tool Oil. For about 6 hours today I alternated between about all the tools mentioned in this thread to create 2 side vent stainless steel trim pieces for the GTO ptoject and tried each individual suggestion twice. I cut the stainless steel trim to fit the side vents but cutting out the inside of the trim was PITA with either the airbody saw refusing to operate or the blade going dull. (I still have to straighten out the inside lines) This saw makes the best cuts but not for long... I rough cut with the air nibbler....straight line cut and trimmed with bandsaw...used 3 different grinder/sanders. ruined 5 cheap air body saw blades... used 2 different files. 2 different size vices. The passenger side vents are slightly different from the driver's side which means I have to make a different pattern for them. I also managed to get the vents and grille cut out eith the airbidy saw without too much downtime.There is got to be some kind of rolling shear/bead bench top tool that will do this trim work....GTO pictures http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/my_photos
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http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/my_photosI had this little Cool Cam pocket digital that I thought was useless but it seems to take pictures.... These pictures were the practice shots. I will be taking more to detail this project
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eye candy
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The timing chain maybe off a tooth or two.... run #1 piston up TDC and see where your timing mark is. if it is on Zero,,,,,,,, A stock carb can make the L20 run like crap of which I could not throw away fast enuff for a single DGV Weber replacement......If your timing chain was installed precisely and you got a good carb ...then this proceedure will get the L 20 running correctly and only if the timing chain is dead on.....disconnect vaccum advance from distribitor..... hook up a vaccum gauge to the manifod and dial in your carb air idle screw to get the highest vaccum reading.... at highest vaccum if idle is way too fast...reduce idle speed....check timing and readjust....,. check vaccum and adjust for highest vaccum.......keep readjusting vaccum, idle speed and timing until it runs right I have been tuning these engines for years with this method and do not let anyone tell you they can tune a car by ear... I cannot do it....I have yet to meet anyone who can tune an L 4 cylinder better than I can. My biased opinion..A vaccum guage is most often a very under utilized tool. I would choose it over a timing light.
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60 gallon vertical tank..5 HP// single stage. Ingersall Rand made in China ....owned for about 15 years reduced the pulley system because it was initially working itself to premature faiure from too high a pulley speed for longevity... It keeps up with the air tools that I use a lot......I am satisfied but a two stage system is the way to go..but a cheap built two stage will wear it's rings out fairly.soon. so if you choose 2 stage go with a well known and reliable brand
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Charlie... I might just have to "bookmark" this thread as the definitive source for the 280 hybrid "write-up on wire-up".....LOL when this is over you can start getting some sleep.......When I was away.... I went to sleep thinking Z and wondering usually the two same issues... has Charlie got his Z wired and if Mike Kelley was maintaing order and decorum on the set of Hybrid Z
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z oil presure...when cold at idle..>high pressure..........when hot at idle..>low pressure.............when low oil level or old oil...>low pressure .................high rpm..>high pressure........an "aged" stock and aftermarket electric sending units can cause some false or inaccurate readings... unless you have a heavy duty oil pump the stock units will have variances in oil pressure that at times can cause you more than casual concern. I once hooked up a mechanical guage to check possibilty of a faulty Datsun oil pressre gauge by the use of a T fitting. The two guages acted the same to the pecularites of a Z's oil pressure.. I had a 300 nailhead Buick with high compression that ran a steady 15 pound oil pressure at any RPM or under any condition and that was consdiered normal by Buick
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As , Larry requested, I would also encourage all you folks to have your sugar level tested and then have you encourage everyone that you know to do the same. Diabetes is very serious and very damaging to other body organs. My type 2 diabetes can be controlled by diet and excersize. I was in the emergency room 3 times in one week until the reason was discovered to be the onset of diabetes. I was lucky to have the diabetic condition discovered before the real serious irreverible damage and problems developed...The test is very simple and if you know anyone with diabetes...they should have a sugar/glucose monitor and can provide you with your sugar level test instantly ...anything around 120 is great... over 200 or under 70.... make a doctor appointment immediately
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Roost Monkey....' your suggestion may be a good reason to repair my home built 2X72 inch belt grinder I used to make knives with. I wore out the 1 HP electric motor. That grinder was somthing else for metal removal
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Looks great but where do you suppose all those dark grey hoses are going to on top of that engine.
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"I love the smell of asphalt in the morning" .....quote from the new Z car movie "Rust Now" showing thru at all the fine locations near you
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I had a bad master cylinder in the silver Z for years with bleed off resulting in mushy brakes....After an occasional "pump up" the brakes would work fine for a couple hours use but out of habit I would occasionally pump them gently while driving in case I had to stop. When I finally replaced front and rear brakes, I replaced the master cylinder from a parts car and had no more "bleed off" in the master cylinder during operation of the car. If you are not leaking somewhere in the system.... Bleed the brakes also at the two master cylinder bleed off points. Disconnect the vaccum booster and see if your problem seems the same without it's use. Next time at the JY grab yourself a front/rear brake proportioning vave off a Z firewall for a little parts changing to see if this is the problem.(Take a metric 10 mm flare nut wrench) Sounds like a master cylinder problem if not leaking somwhere.
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Bad weather seals and wet carpet have rusted more Z foor beds than anything else. For the GTO project...I'm going to Home Depot for "Hammerite" paint and if I do not like that ...off to Walmart for some cheapo "do it at home" bedliner.... No carpet...
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i am working on a 250 GTO project and have similar concerns about it's fiberglass hood. which is conprised of polyester resin and fiberglass strand as most other after market fiberglass products. I plan to incorporate a backward scoop to let the air out and use some type of insulation shield attached to the underside of the hood. The fiberglass hood has some built in webbing underneath for strength. I have found direct sunlight can generate incredible pressure in the enclosed webbing to pop a seam. I drilled some holes to let out the air pessure. I will also drill holes in the steel door to relieve pressure under the enclosed fiberglass door skins. I am not too concerned with an undeneath paint barrier to shield against engine heat because it may act to retain heat generated from the sun on the top side. I plan to use silver as the car color for better heat reduction from sun light. One of the problems with polyester resin is it may take years to cure if ever completely and excess heat makes it pliable which causes surface paint problems over time.
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WOW !......... looks first class... with that motor and this summer weather..you can drive around a few weeks without the hood to show all that aluminum off.
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the 1985-86 200 SX turbo had a 4.11........81-83 non turbo zx's had a 3.90. ..1987--89 Turbo ZX's had a 3.90 LSD..... A search will net you a considerable amount of knowledge on differential swapping
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The one cent Honda rear coil overs arrived with a disproportinate postage charge.. The springs are of a undetermined compressed weight and 7 inches in height. The coil diameter is slightly larger than my 225 pound 10 inch hypercoils...so ash can the Honda springs for a Datsun application. and probaly any worthwhile Honda application......the Honda aluminum top hat(s) fit perfectly on top of the 225 # hypercoil coil overs and in appearance and function will work for the Datsun 240-280 Z application with top washer indentation above and centering ring for the coilover spring on the underside..I may have to slightly enlarge the top hat's center hole to accept the diameter of the Datsun's strut cartridge shaft... The Honda coilover sleeves with adjusting nut and corresponding lock nut are a little over 3 5/8" with 3 inches of thread (not a true acme thread) and right at 2 inches inside diameter and would require boring out slightly for a 240 strut but not quite thick enough for a 280 strut bore. I have 2 Bilstein 5 inch thredaed adjusting sleeves (aproxomately 2 1/16 bore thru and a partial bore of 2 1/8 and a with acme threads and single adjusting nut with allen screw centering lock that inside diameter can be bored out safely for the 280 strut and will most likely slip right over the 240 strut tube without any enlargement. I have used bored out Bilstein sleeves before on a 280 Z application... So I gained two usable aluminum top hats with 2 useless coilover springs and 2 coil over sleeves without modification will not slip over a 240 strut tube.
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I hope so !!!!
spacers, under the hat on rear disk brakes?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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I am surprised so many members missed this recent hybrid z swap when a stock set of Maxima offset caliper brackets went for $336.13 with a couple of Earl's ss lines on eBay (no bull ****). I am going for this member's full maxima swap and should come under $100.00 with all Maxima parts including machining with the ss lines costing about as much as the complete conversion http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102340