Here comes trouble
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Posts posted by Here comes trouble
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Rams horn manifolds that used to go for scrap price apparently have joined the mystique of collectible prices around $50.00.. By the time they are machined.. you have got the price of good block huggers. cast iron does have it's advantages.. Are the Vortec'c castiron ??????
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Welcome.....that is exactly the kind of price I would like to pay for first generation Z s...you may want to see if you can get that tranny in order first before any swapping in a SBC.............................................................................................................. Z 31 hybridders post and identify yourselves.
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EDIT last page here :
Update............http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larry...m/ph//my_photos........... Have Harbour Freight's largest sand blaster and the powder coating gun... and free oven ...............Found a source for the coilover sleeves http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106293 Making camber plates, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106293 located a CNC operator to cut the plates out and waiting for the monoball housings Just about have all the parts to assault the suspension.. Recieved a small settlement in court for the damage done to the Tomahawk Zee/Cobra http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larry...e76.jpg&.src=ph (and hope the very (same)******* is reading this who could have saved himself a wheel borrow load in attorney fees if he had the balls to talk to me...now see if you can beat your attorney out of the remainder. LOL my settlement comes directly from the attorney not you.). I plan to make adjustable front lower control arms and TC rods. GTO headlight trim rings and bead roller thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthrea...4046#post584046 .. ...adjustable clutch rod thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106902 ..FIRST PAGE begins here........................................................................................................Stable Works 250 GTO on 1978 Silver Z.(ownership for years).. I bought the Stable Works kit in 1996 and got the package deal (headlight covers, flip top gas cap, cross-lace Dayton wire wheels etc) when Rod Simpson was the owner. I started Saturday and this Monday. the body kit is mounted for fit......The biggest surprise was that I have a R 180 differential. (duh) The underside was free from rust. Surface rust on one place at bottom corner of hatch back opening. Used a 3/8 air ratchet with no WD 40 and no broken fasteners until I got to the grille. The sheetmetal front of the radiator support is covered with surface rust and will need attention. A little fender and door bondo in the places where known but all in all the car is very straight....which means that the GTO body kit fits very good and appears that I can make door, hood and hatch lines very straight I have a scrap pile of aluminum that I have been collecting, so I can get some argon mix for the wire welder and a coilover kit together for the suspension.. I will post pictures when I get some film.... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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LOL I've been spending some time under the silver Z removing a gas tank and was wondering why one control arm had a small plate welded to the bottom while the other control arm had one welded to the top which began to worry me..so I put it on my list to fix...... So I got two drivers side control arms ? from the bird's view or the worm's view. The situation still worries me.
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B... if you have an electric drill... go to Harbour Freight and get yourself a small buffing wheel and mandrell to fit the electric drill and some buffing compound.. if not get some automotive rubbing compound (where the car waxes are) and a cotton rag and do it the old fashioned way............ and the gun metal gray looks great on that wheel.
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I was bidding on a couple 150 pounder 8 inch coilovers when Dan Juday got me so worked up on high poundage that I neglected to bid anymore on those light weights. Got hot on a couple 8 inch 225 pounders up for bid just to stay competitive with Mr. Juday. Postage and all came in at $35.50 for the 8 inch hypercoil 225 pounders. i am thinking 180 front>>225 rear. That is whats good with coilovers.... get bored just switch spings. I am just going to construct a shelf with nothing but a coilover springs collection.
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Peg...you got me beat...all this time I thought you were having a problem with a first generation Z not a 300 zx.. one thing would be helpful in the future is to stick with only one post........... and then if the post gets "dated" and begins to disappear with failing response.... you can write "bump" on the post which will activate the post on a daily post. I wish I could be of assistance but 300zx's I know very little..
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that young fellow does not fit the terrorist profile and everyone knows terrorists don't carry chain saws and sniff glue !
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Battle Pope... my Tomahawk is in a shambles...while I was away for a couple years, someone decided to splash a mold on the body and really got it ****ed up.. My smal block 350 chevy was stripped... All the progress that I had made was pushed back and many parts to finish it were stolen. I have put the Tomahawk on the back burner and now working on the 250 GTO kit since it will be cheaper to complete if I take the suspension parts from the Tomahawk. I have recently won two substantisl judgements from two deadbeats (who will be very difficult for me to collect) and have two others to track down and serve. Check some of these old pictures http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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Put a camper on it and come up and see me. I' ll make some chili beans....CHEBBY Looks slick !
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Good luck !!!! and keep posting
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fost off...got to start framing those Datsuns and make a real turque box out of them for traction... gear them and put exhaust on them and still no good without traction... need front wheel drive for that action
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Evilruuskay. at one time, you would not had to save much for a Tomahawk... In 1996, I bought my Tomahawk Kit (#8-)for $2700.00 and for $1600, Rory Bateman offered to mount the body which I foolishly declined. I considered myself too busy with other nonsense to drive my 78 donar to Sacremento. I saw a write up in a Kit Car magazine about the prototype and within a couple weeks was at Rory Bateman's door step and ordered a kit from him.
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Definite show piece and probably the only one with the hardtop by Rory Bateman..My Tomahawk took a beating while I was gone..................http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=2e76.jpg&.src=ph
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Congratulations............................................................................................ but...........there maybe some coilovers questions that need resolved
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stock 1978 Z coupe 103# front spring and rear spring 127 #...............keep in mind the heavier springs need more dampening effect from stronger strut cartridges. I chose 165 # front and 180 # rear for Tomahawk so I could have a choice of struts like the cheaper KYBs as opposed to the Tokicos. To improve suspension handling one should not go lower than 150 # on the front with at least 15 -20 # more in the rear to keep rear suspension stable with front suspension and adequete strut cartridges to dampen springs. (my opinion)...................... I am considering 10 inch 150# front and 165# rear springs on 2 inch sectioned struts and KYB Gr2 for GTO 250 project but still concernrd about 15 pound difference between front and rear springs when maybe there should be at least a 25 to 30 pound difference to stabilze rear suspension to front springs??????????????????????????????????????? (my spare back-up (4)180 pound coilover springs got stolen with everything else). http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
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Are you using the Suzuki battery fully connected in the Suzuki?????.....You must have the starter's ground terminal grounded to a good known ground... ie the Suzuki's ground battery cable..... with the battery's positive hot lead connected to the starter's positive hot terminal and the ground terminal connected to a known ground source........... arc between the the solenoid's spade terminal and the starter's hot positive terminal ...the starter should spin and the starter gear should kick out...... An auto parts store is usually eguipped to test starters and alternators.
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L28 ("81-83 280 ZX) #54 block casting with flattop pistons P 79 cylinder head and if available P90 turbo cylinder head used with (#54)flattop pistons on a non turbo application. all your 280 Z parts should bolt on..
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Mike as busy as you are !.... your're going to run into a little trouble now and then. A keyed car can make a sane man go psychotic. My silver Z was keyed along the driver's side fender and someone danced on the roof. This helped me decide to use the 250 GTO kit on the silver Z. I am a firm believer that there is some force out there (Karma) that in a certain time makes the *** wipes suffer and pay for their behavior... Keep in mind "STRESS" is a killer and can take years off your life. Blow it off..dust yourself off and face tomorrow with a grin on your face (life could be a hell of lot worse.. you could be that miserable piece of humanity that keyed your car).
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1. Charge your battery.........if car starts ............. and runs....remove positive cable from battery....if engine dies.. you have bad alternator..That is draining battery. 2. with charged battery and no start.. be careful.. turn key on and take car out of gear and arc a screw driver between the starter solenoid terminal (small wire) and the big hot wire to starter from battery. If starter turns ...your problem is in the ignition switch or wiring going to it .get a cheap electrical tester or probe (looks like small hand punch body with a small light on one end to indicate a hot live wire and other end a needle point (probe) connected to the punch body. A wire with an alligator tip on the end is connected to the punch body which will act as a ground . remove plastic pig tail from ignition switch.... you are going to find 4 or 5 wire terminals in the ignition pigtail.....connect or "hotwire" or "arc" the two terminals with the wires that will turn on your guages only (one will be hot and the other not hot but when connected your gauges will begin to operate) these two wire terminals are usually are at the ends of the pigtail and across from each other ....usually the biggest wire to the igntion pig tail is the hot wire from battery..... once you get the guages on with.....their wires connected with the tester.....find the starter solenoid wire and jump it with a piece of insulated wire (to keep fingers cool) to the connected guage circuit wires (tester connection)....the starter solenoid wire terminal is usually located at the opposite end on the opposite side from the hot wire terminal.......... this arcing of guage connection to starter solenoid should turn your starter and this wire connection should only be arced temporarily while starting and removed or discoonected after engine starts or to disengage the starter........Now if this does not remedy the problem or pinpoint the problem ...you have the rudimentary skills to hot wire another Z for parts. think slim jim for next lesson.
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Convertible http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=4555693015&rd=1 New Jersey>no reserve>no title 1983 Turbo ZX http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=4555165742&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=4555215074&rd=1 newly painted Georgia project. no reserve http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=4554642221&rd=1
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I re-checked in the daylight and still get 32 5/8 from strut shaft center to center on 76 Z on top under the hatch... My 1978 Z Service manual place the distance at 32.93 " from strut shaft center to center.
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Vinh...wise move.......too much work...... even at 1/2 price of kit
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Everyone has their taste but my biased opinion ...Block off rear side window, Dayton cross wire spoke wheels 15X8 in front and 15X10 on rear... and if you can get it to look about half as good as SpeedRacer's you have done well....the 250 GTO was thee class sports car of the 60's. (Cobra was a thug).... you wouldn't want a big tattoo on the Statue of Liberty's torch arm, now would you ?????? these modern large diameter wheels and no sidewall tires are starting to look like stagecoach wheels..... check out my "halibrand" style wheels on my Tomahawk.. This style came on 427 Shelby Cobras and Ford GT 40's but in my opinion would not look right on a 250 GTO http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a
head bolts....
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
In consideration of expense, I would question how much metal fatigue has occurred in a set of L6 head bolts and ......how often...they should be replaced due to ordinary use or even occasional high speed efforts. I know around 1974 there was a spectacular difference in Datsun 4 cylinder head bolts to some very strong ones (that did not know how to break) identified by a slight circle indentation round the allen head hole. A record kept of head bolt torquing would indicate the need for replacement of the bolts needing attention.