KAZU

I am pretty sure the TBs are made in JAPAN, by SK Sanyo or OER carburetor. Both conpanies are very close relation each other. IMO, TWM TBs are superior quality products than them. They have two injector bosses on each runner but the bosses are pluged then the injectors are relocated where the gas can be injected directry toward the intake valve. The intake manifold was modified to accept the incector bosses. Also the intake angle is modified, not for the carburetor use any more, as you can see. I've heard the fuel rail is from Toyota 7M or JZ, heavily modified though. Regards, KAZU

MoTeC M48 and 50mm TBs. Regards KAZU

I've got mail but I can't send mail right now. Here, I'll place some additional info. The hats can be found at www.martelbros.com, or www.wilwood.com The diameter of the lug hole actually is slightly larger than 0.67", listed on their catalog. The reason why I did not buy the Wilwood rotors is that the viper pads would be wider than the friction surface of their rotors. Measurements can be found on those sites. I've found good site to buy rebuilt caipers. www.diskbrakesus.com You can find some 4-pod calipers, such as RX-7, at a reasonable price. Regards, KAZU

The wheels look so classical, nobody noticed that my z has 17 inches with 13 inch rotors behind them Also, I can live with rear drum brakes for a while because the wheels are in good old motif. jeromio, it was there already when I bought the car. May be the cheapest and smallest one from MSA. It doesn't disturb z's classical look, because lip is so small. Nobody.... BTW I visited your site so often. I got many info from you, thanks. SCCA, that was exactly the headache I had because I don't know who can make hub rings near here. A set of Crager mag nut was sacrificed. The diameter of the nut is slightly larger than the lug hole of the hut so two of five lug holes were enlarged . Then I cut tips 1/4 in from the nuts, screw them onto the two studs of the hub. No wobble but trace shudder under the high speed braking. I'll add some pics. Regards, KAZU

Installation has finished. http://home.earthlink.net/~kazuhix/inj/viperstang.jpg Thank you for valuable information! Regards, KAZU

Update. After measuring the distance between strut ears and 88ZX turbo hub, I found the offset of GT-R rotor is not enough. So I cancelled the order then finally bought Wilwood hats for Pantera and Coleman rotors. The hat offset is 1.38. Rotor thickness is 1.25. With them, the Viper calipers can be mounted by flat brackets and some sims. Regards, Kazu

This is rather off topic, but Supras in JGTC circuit were running with 3SGT 2 liter turbo. Kazu

Thanks guys. Spacers I want should be 20 mm to 1 in thick. I'll import some from Japan. Regards, Kazu

Is there any source of them in the United States? Kazu

Team Lexus They got lighter IS300. It won a race in 2001 Grand-Am series. The car had auto in some race. But they used manual trans (Getrag 6) occasionally. Auto trans would work well on some high speed course. Regards, Kazu

I'm sorry it can't be read very well. Kazu

For guys who are considering brake conversion, I made list of rotor dimensions. This is incomplete because no data of 300ZX turbo, 87-89. Also I've heard some of the 300ZX 2nd gen rotor are smaller in thickness. A B C D E F G --------------------------------------------------------- 240 Z S30 70 - 73 F S 271 52 12.7 81 4 260 Z S30 73 - 78 F S 271 43.5 12.7 81 4 280 ZX S130 2/79 - 5/84 F V 250 29 20 81 4 280 ZX S130 2/79 - 8/81 R S 269 69 10 68 4 280 ZX S130 9/81 - 4/84 R S 258 47 10 68 4 300 ZX Z31 84 - 9/85 F V 274 35.5 22 81 4 R S 290 47 10 68 4 300 ZX Z31 9/85 - 89 F V 274 35.5 22 81 5 R S 290 47 10 68 5 300 ZX Z32 89 - 94 F V 280 54 30 68 5 R V 297 64 18 68 5 -------Reference------- Mustang Cobra 94 - 98 F V 330 43.5 28 71 5 R32 GTR 2.6L 6/89 - 8/93 F V 296 54 32 68 5 R32 GTR(v-spec) 8/93 - F V 324 53.75 30 68 5 --------------------------------------------------------- A = Front or Rear B = Solid or Vented C = Rotor Diameter D = Original Height E = Rotor Thickness F = Centre Hole diameter G = No. of Lug Holes | F | -- ---- ---- | | | D --------------------------- -- | | | E -- --------------------------- -- |------- C -------| It is well known that GT-R brakes are interchangeable with 300zx rotors. I took GT-R rotors. Regards, Kazu

I recommend AP600. Replace it before every track run because the wet boil point is low. Dry boil temp is 600F and it is safe for paint. I think SPV racing @Australia stocks it. Regards, Kazu

WoWo but too large headlights and too small, funny shape of radiator with too small fan --- Kazu

Thanks again! I like your idea. That's the easiest way if the rotor thickness is enough. I'll be thinking the SN95 plan as a future project because it may correct too large king pin inclination angle and positive radius scrub of 240z with wide tires. Regards, Kazu

Thank you for the valuable information. I drew a rough sketch of it. The Cobra rotor outer surface will be located more outside of the 240z hub:-( The other (secret) plan was transplant of whole mustang (SN95) hub support, sturt and coilover conversion. Regards, Kazu

Viper caliper with fabricated bracket Mustang Cobra 13 rotor, slip onto the 300zx turbo (87-89) hub Mustang wheel (17-8, 5.7 backspacing) I like the Bullitt's I'm not sure the hub offset is identical to the other 300ZX hub but it can be used if I make the caliper bracket to locate the caliper far outside from the original caliper mounting. Rotor replacing will be more easier than early style. Any suggestion or pros and cons? Yes, I need the coilover kit. I'll place the order somewhere soon. Regards, Kazu

BMW M20 (small six sohc) is my favorite engine I'd buy SDS or other aftermarket ECU to run it. Regards, Kazu

I'm confusing. 1. altezza taillights on civic 2. skyline / euro amber taillights on early z Both are the same mind, IMO. Regards, Kazu

John, I know Anyway, thank you telling me about it. Blueovalz, I apologize if it is rude that I wrote by your first name. I don't know much about the netiquette in this country.. Regards, Kazu

Hydra, the pic is from car of the month of Jun. 2000, no bigger pic, unfortunately. IMO, the suspension of original 240z (Macferson struts both front and rear) was designed for Safari rally. Terry wrote how bad the front alignment of 240z is. Terry's modification He solved the problem by increasing the caster angle by relocating the ball joint foward. King pin inclenation also affects the dynamic camber change. The offset adaptor, you may see in the pic, can change camber, caster and trail in the same time, if designed carefully. Increasing the caster just by inclining the struts rearward causes too much trail resulted in heavy steering effort. The adaptor plate can solve this problem by offsetting the wheel spindle rearward. Regards, Kazu

IMO, king pin inclination of z is too big and caster is too little. Bad steerng feel. I will make offset adaptors between ball joint and strut (as you can find it on pic @zdriver.com). Then strut top mount should be moved 'outside' to compensate the negative camber. Then there will be smaller kingpin inclination.. Also, negative offset wheels should be (can be) fitted. Regards, Kazu

I've replaced the FI TBs from carbs of my L28. Though I still be with some mechanical troubles (throttle linkage), the adjustment of the fuel was pretty easy with the aid of DTA software. I bought SDS system for my BMW 2 years ago. I like the knob/button adjustment changes the value instantly. I am positive SDS is value for money. So I almost bought another SDS but I went DTA for some reason. The decision was correct even though DTA is a little expensive. Now I am going to make DIY wideband A/F meter for closed loop feedback at 12.5. Regards, Kazu -- 71z with DTA P8Pro

Thank you for the link! The car has all I want to do except exterior Anyway I got some info from pics. I was just in trouble with the TWM throttles. The throttle wire did not work well so I temporary installed triple-weber-type rod linkage. I thought wire pulling at one linkage would have trouble in synchronizing of three throttles. The car should be with wire throttle operation! I'll try to fit it again Regards, Kazu -- 71z with DTA P8Pro (yes, with EFI now)

quote: Originally posted by RXO510: It seems like everytime I let go of the key from the starter position; I get what sounds like combustion from the exhaust, but just a little bit. I'm just wondering if maybe the power to my ignition fades when in the starter position? Just guessing here. What year is your z? I found the problem on Haines manual. The ignition key switch of early z cuts ingition supply at start position. Then the power would be supply vir the ballast resistor, inversely and low voltage. 280z ignition key solves this problem. Also, jumper wiring between start (to the coil, not to the starter) and ignition at the switch would work. Regards, Kazu