luigi

Some of the budget 3.75" cranks end up NOT being a deal. They can take heavy metal to balance. That will blow your budget. Also, they are not always the roundest, straightest cranks. Buyer be aware! I like your cheap idea. Check with your local machine shops for deals. We always have blocks, intakes, heads, etc.. My 327 steel crank was free and so was the 350 steel crank and 4 bolt block. Watch out for the pro-comp parts in the heads. They can be not so good. We've even had seats from them that needed replacing. What parts do you have already?

Glad to see you've got it sorted. Are you running the EPC valve on your accumulator? Also, since you've good some good documentation on your oil pressure before, please let us know how does with the upgrades. lastly, I recently bought a 3qt accusump myself. My system is a bit different but not much. When I looked at the check valve for the accusump (brass 1/2" NPT), it seemed pretty restrictive. I asked a few of the vintage racer guys that use them and they all said they lost some pressure when using the canton/moroso check valve. They recomended an Earl's hinge style. I finaly found one at Hoerr racing. It hasn't made it here yet. When it does I'll take it apart and get pictures. Otherwise I'm trying to put the oil from the accusump directly into the oil galley. Thinking of teeing outlet to rear by distributor and at the front. That melling 10550 is a great pump. I've used the 10552 and really like it. Really nice car keep us posted

Bj, yours is the inspiration for what I'm doing! What size tube did you use from rocker up and from rocker over to tc? Did the rocker to frame horns have a bend in it? Did you use any plate on the rocker to weld the tube to? Sorry for all the questions. thanks Lewis

What size tubing do you think from the TC rod to rocker? And what size for the rocker to strut area. I took my car apart and cut the sheet metal splash shield, but I am unable to make that bar straight and long. If memory serves it is about 24" long and we had to put about 15 degree bend in it towards the center of the car. Other pictures look like it's a straight shot. My tubing is 1.5" Maybe something smaller dia. that would tuck tighter? thanks Lewis

The oil temps don't scare me....yet. The oil pressure does. Z28 pump is high pressure, not volume right? What weight/type/brand oil are you using?Do you remember your oil clearances? The pan is not very well baffled for what you are doing. maybe some additional baffles to keep oil outta the crank. Also, what is the condition & state of tune of the engine? Blow-by can drive oil temps up. Ignition timing can also. I doubt that's the case for you, but I've missed it on my own car so I gotta put it out there. How much total oil? 5 in pan w/filter +3 for accusump + 1 for cooler & lines? you may try lowering the pan level by 1-1.5 quarts. that may keep it out of the crank. Otherwise its time to pull the pan and start welding & shimming pressure springs. It's not staying in the heads is it? Some of the heads have really poor drain back holes, & some head gaskets get in the way too. Lewis

Please, Please take pictures. thanks for offering. I bought a set of those (c-33-ap) and while they would bolt up they were all over everything. thanks Lewis

I, also, would like to find this agian. I've looked (and looked). Someone please help. I could be searching wrong? thanks Lewis

I have one in my Z. Good engine. Cranking compression ~225 psi. Calculated compression 11.2:1. Runs fine on 87 octane. Dynoed with 93 octane @ 518 bhp ~430 lbs. I love it. We quit at 7600 rpm. Was still at 500bhp. Use a 6.125 rod (K1 makes a good rod) I used an Eagle SIR. If a 6.125 rod is used an off the shelf piston with a reasonable comp. height can be used. Cam in that one was 248/252 @ .050. .406" lobe lift. No real draw backs, and cheap to build. I used a cast 307 crank for the first one. Turned the counterweights down round. Close the quench up as tight as you dare. I ran .026". Opened it up to .036". If you have any questions PM me Lewis I just noticed it says I'm a newbie. I think that happened on the change over. Kinda funny.

Pete, I was able to use the 15-240 with the hooker block huggers. Took a bit to make it work. I cut the 3 bolt flange off and about 1/2"-3/4" of the "collector". got a 2 1/2" doughnut and made a tight but not kinked bend. If I recall, it didn't go foward much, just kinda back toward the frame away from the block/pan. Used another part of the doughnut for a front to rear bend. Worked ok. Both pipes wound up next to the pan and not real low. I'm sorry the engine is out and the headers are gone. I do remember having to shave a bit off the tension rod box (~1/4"?). With that in mind I feel pretty good about the 15-244. I like Canton pans alot but there are a few others that might be good for you also. milidon and champ come to mind. I'm suprised no one has sugessted an accusump or accumulator. That might be a mid step to dry sump.... really like your car, It was a good inspiration....before I got all eat up with the horsepower bug. Lewis