luigi

google my friend. Amazon shows 1 for $19.99. also, the Grant stuff might be less than say, a MOMO.

are you looking for a bare block? Short block? Long block? 2 bolt? 4 bolt?

tube80z, Great information. Are the rear control arms pictured a "toe-link" style? Looks like it but I wanna be clear. Does it help with side loads because it stays still more than the bushings?

the brake upgrade looks GREAT! would love a set of those hats or the cad file. How do you like the aluminum hubs? I have a set in a box. I even bought the bearing spacers (DPR). But I have some kinda mental hang-up about the use of aluminum there. I know It's not rational.

manninen, please tell us more!!! what tone ring and what sensor?

I might be way off, and I'm not near a L Series right now. Can the distributor and drive be removed from the "top" and the oil pump tapped out?

Once you get the paint and sealant off that area You might decide to leave it and plate over for main hoop. I think it's doubled there. I thought about putting a hole there and extending the hoop out the floor. Then cap it. Good jack/ jackstand point. I dreamed of air jacks somewhere near there.

Convertible conversion?

Flow numbers on the head?

I'd like to buy these. sending a PM

Joe, do you have pictures? Cost?

maybe FX35 vents might match the curve? Plus they are fairly inexpensive.

I hope this link works. I needed something like this 20+ years ago. Of course, I also needed the internet! www.woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/half-shaft-rebuild

That's NICE!! who makes the relay box?

Had delrin in the IT car. lasted fine. have it in the street car. doing fine. but not a lot of miles on either. hard miles on IT car. few miles on streetcar.

delrin rod, available at you local plastic store in different diameters. cuts/sands easy.

super car where'd you get the hood vents?

So, if you had to do it again, what offset would you use? 0? good looking car

I'll take a stab at this...... if the "fork" like tangs on the end of the oil pump driveshafts are too long you can trim them. however this means getting the driveshaft out. This is usually a distributor problem and not a driveshaft problem. Measure the depth of the pocket where the tangs go on each of the distributors you have. then measure a stock driveshaft and see if there is a issue. Sometimes the tangs are spread and this will make it hard to get the distributor to seat/sit down. a long bendy flashlight will show you if this is a problem. If the driveshaft comes out there is something wrong. like the plastic collar that is used on the OE shaft is missing. I have never seen an aftermarket shaft that didn't use a steel collar that is pinned to the shaft. these won't come out of the block. I use a long flat head screwdriver to move the driveshaft around so that as the distributor drops in as it rotates on the cam gear and lines up. I know you've done this before. don't give up, it can be tricky. my friend does this trick...plugs out distributor in place, hand rotate engine (not starter), distributor drops in. sorry 'bout the bad pun.... Luigi

Can you not unbolt it and count the teeth? I'm guessing it's in the car right? I looked and didn't find 1 that has a sensor in the front. I think the ones I saw were all Z32 with 2 on the rear cover. When used with fuel injection, the Davis can pull fuel or manage a DBW throttle. As for the 7531, I've been around them, in my opinon, not a great solution for a street/road race car.

Oh.....ok, the sensor is actually reading the output shaft correct?

what year, make and model is your diff? I may have one in the basement that I can look at or take apart. Or may be able to get my friend at the dealer to look and see. I'm going with the clamp on the driveshaft ring. I can't order until Monday. I think he's racing

Por-15 with a brush. or thin and spray. They may have it in a can by now. toughest paint I've used.

The Ultrashield rally sport seat fit into my car (S30) pretty well. My car has simple door bars.

Michael, what offset did you wind up with?