luigi

I liked the Weir because it uses off the shelf flywheel & clutch. Not sure what the hyd. release is from, but if it crapped out, I think I could find something. I used to hate bleeding mine also. last time it was out, I added a 24 inch, -3 line to it. bleeds in no time time now. I stole the idea from the 'vette guys.

I used a Weir products bellhousing. It uses a regular old say, 198? flywheel & clutch assembly. I couldn't find his website, but his number is 800-633-9869. He's in California. nice product. You may also be able to find a Quick Time bellhousing. Tilton & quartermaster both sell hyd. release bearings. hope this helps

Last generation Toyota celica or toyota MR spyder?

I cut a 4 triangles that "boxed?" the sides. Smallest angle nearest the arm. Tig welded on the sides. Did it help? I don't know. It was an easy thing to do & it made me feel better. It did make getting the bolts into the frame a bit more difficult. You could make an X that starts on the inside of the bolts, maybe a bit more strength and easier access to the bolts.

watch out for the inside door handle. Ask me how I know Looks great!

No significant difference on a low hp ZZ4 crate engine. I don't think that would be the case with Mikes combo

Cool car! Did you get it with the engine in it? Looks like a old hooker kit? 3/8" line is ok. Well, until maybe 600bhp? That looks like a Mallory fuel pump. rebuild kits are available. I think the brushes die in them. I had one on my z for 4 years (maybe longer). gave it to my pops it finally killed the brushes last year. Keep it low buck and driveable! I wish I had!

Got one. Re-plated, yellow zinc. Can't ship it till Thursday. I'm in Nashville. Can't see shipping costing too much. I'll check again on Thursday morning. If you haven't found one, I'll ship it to you. Lewis

I'm glad you got it fixed. Make sure you check for wide open throttle. That little piece of choke cable is really common. It's used to make sure the choke doesn't get "pulled" closed by engine vacuum. If the car will start without the choke being closed, don't worry about it.

What condition does it need to be in? I will get pictures this Friday, but I would call the one I have a 4 (outta 10). Maybe 5 or 6 tops. Lewis

I also have those 3 pieces. If the offerabove doesn't work out let me know.

I like the air dam! Are there 2 oil coolers? How are they plumbed? any before and after oil temp numbers? Are the coolers painted red?

I have a set that is already set up for a coilover spring. The housings ae not cut down. Let me know if you are interested.

jt1, whose is that? Mike, what are you thinking on primary pip dia. & length? Anything that's better than the shorties? Took me awhile, the Sanderson c33 series w/1 3/4" pipes did fit my car. Not a perfect fit. Knowing what I now know I would have started with them and modified. They have a great flange, the pipes are thick, they are nowhere near equal length, they are heavy. I got 'em for $300. + shipping.

I used the Vibrant clamps on my exhaust. I like them. I really like the way the "clasp" flips over the t-bolt, so you can just loosen the nut and disassemble. Also, I think the t-bolts themselves are a bit better. I have broken other ones. I have used the v-band clamps from Burns and they are made by another company, named something like race shop. five star makes alot v-bands also. Dynatechs clamps are mild steel on the flanges. Side note, whoever it is that makes Burns clamps (can't find them right now) also had low profile clamps and flanges to fit metric tubing. Whatever you pick anti-seize the heck outta the threads.

There are many things that set the powerband of an engine, & there is nothing that says a 327 has to have a narrow powerband. In the engine masters competition there was a 331 that hit the pump @2500 rpm with 381 lb/ft. Low number was 377 lb/ft all the way to 6500 rpm. That doesn't sound narrow to me. Get an engine analyzer program and play around. Beware that if you really are gonna try to get the last bit outta it, you're gonna may need real long tube headers or at least do some testing to see what your combo likes. Good luck. Lewis

What fuel sender did you use? Are the gauges easy to calibrate? good looking stuff thanks Luigi

Jones cams, Owner is Mike Jones. Very good person. If you want to do a bit of trending, invest in engine analyzer. If this was mine, I'd make sure a got some EDM'd lifters. Did I miss it, what make heads are on this?

Logan, what type of lifters are you gonna run? If your budget allows, go ahead and get the vortecs set up for screw- in studs and guide plates. That'll make your life easier latter on. cam: 225-235 @ .050 and you won't need any more than .510-.520 lift at the valve. I'll try to get the spec for the cam that we have in the engine on the dyno this weekend. Go for at least a Performer RPM (air gaps are taller I think). You can get the Professional Products intake, just be prepared to do some clean up porting on it. The Edelbrocks have a MUCH nicer casting.

After the pan install, did the accumulator "on" light stay off? thanks for keeping us posted about this.

1 bad thing about the vortec heads....they are prone to cracking. We had 6 heads in the shop only 1 was good. I like them. They top aout at ~235cfm on the intake at around .500 lift. so you don't need a huge cam. We made ~370-377 hp (engine dyno) with a set, on a professional product low intake, 750dp and 1 5/8 longtubes. The other problem is the intake selection. I mean, they're out there but they only fit the vortec heads. So you're kinda stuck. But the vortec BOTTOM end is a great place to start.

Some of the budget 3.75" cranks end up NOT being a deal. They can take heavy metal to balance. That will blow your budget. Also, they are not always the roundest, straightest cranks. Buyer be aware! I like your cheap idea. Check with your local machine shops for deals. We always have blocks, intakes, heads, etc.. My 327 steel crank was free and so was the 350 steel crank and 4 bolt block. Watch out for the pro-comp parts in the heads. They can be not so good. We've even had seats from them that needed replacing. What parts do you have already?

Glad to see you've got it sorted. Are you running the EPC valve on your accumulator? Also, since you've good some good documentation on your oil pressure before, please let us know how does with the upgrades. lastly, I recently bought a 3qt accusump myself. My system is a bit different but not much. When I looked at the check valve for the accusump (brass 1/2" NPT), it seemed pretty restrictive. I asked a few of the vintage racer guys that use them and they all said they lost some pressure when using the canton/moroso check valve. They recomended an Earl's hinge style. I finaly found one at Hoerr racing. It hasn't made it here yet. When it does I'll take it apart and get pictures. Otherwise I'm trying to put the oil from the accusump directly into the oil galley. Thinking of teeing outlet to rear by distributor and at the front. That melling 10550 is a great pump. I've used the 10552 and really like it. Really nice car keep us posted

Bj, yours is the inspiration for what I'm doing! What size tube did you use from rocker up and from rocker over to tc? Did the rocker to frame horns have a bend in it? Did you use any plate on the rocker to weld the tube to? Sorry for all the questions. thanks Lewis

What size tubing do you think from the TC rod to rocker? And what size for the rocker to strut area. I took my car apart and cut the sheet metal splash shield, but I am unable to make that bar straight and long. If memory serves it is about 24" long and we had to put about 15 degree bend in it towards the center of the car. Other pictures look like it's a straight shot. My tubing is 1.5" Maybe something smaller dia. that would tuck tighter? thanks Lewis