GLENN280ZX

I have 1...770-289-8388...

Hey Folks...I'm in need of a 1981 L28 turbo balancer. Must be for early '81 with bolt on exciter ring. Just bought a '81 that the timing chain has been replaced and balancer bolt was not properly torqued...there for fouling up the balancer keyway and the crank key. Any leads appreciated.

Thanks Guys....while waiting for replies...I tried another ecu (same #) just out of curiosity...same thing. So Thanks again.

Hey TURBO ECU guys...while replacing all my injectors and connectors today..I noticed that I had power on the straight green wire...with key OFF!?!? Car is 1983 turbo..no mods. Just bought car as a POOR runner...after trouble shooting fuel system, learned that the engine would run (rough at idle and only rev to 3k) with #1 #2 and #3 injectors unplugged or with plug wires removed. So looking at the FSM it does not show any KEY or any other interruption for this wire, just straight to the ECU. But it does show that this wire is common for all six injectors. The engine does run well now...just seems strange that the injectors have power all the time while key is off..engine does shut off..just incase anyone was wondering. Anyone know about this,,Thanks

Actually...it is a vent of sorts that has a tunnel that runs across to the B piller vents outside the car. They SIPHON the heat from the top of your roof/hatch area. For real, check it out. Does it hurt anything to delete??...I don't think so..but I have keep them functional on my 3 ZX's.

I did the grease and clean on my '80 280zx with ujoints. I timed the ujoints to be in line..and had a bad vibration. Reclocked the joints to be 90deg. dif. and the vibration was gone..so I would say YES to maybe having done something on the half-shafts.

Not sure of the exact length..but I know that early 280Z with a front mounted rack have longer control arms. I have compared them with my '80 model when I was thinking about buying after market arms like TECHNO TOY TUNING. If you can wait till next sat. I can give you the length of both models.

OR a complete trans..dang fat fingers

Hey guys and gals...looking for a T5 bell housing or trans.. Will pay for shipping and your trouble to do so. GA.TN.N.C.,S.C.,WV.,OH.,E.Va.,PENN.,NY.,NE Alabama, FL.,all considered for pick-up. THANKS, GLENN

What is the the thread in the hiem? 3/8" fine maybe..just thinking if it is 3/8" fine, then it maybe a similar mount to the end links sold by MSA and Dave at AZ. Just add the top washer and stud mount shock bushing to bolt slip through the sway bar end link mount on LC then add lower bushing and washer then thread in to hiem.A sleeve may need to added to position the hiem away from the LC to mount the clamp. Thats what I see IF the threaded hole in the hiem is 3/8. Just took a look at Daves site and seen a bar mount there that brought up this vision.

Forgot to add that I tried with power and manual racks and boxes

Tried this a few years ago..I was trying to use the NISAMO headers..the drop tube on the #3 cylinder is going to be your problem. It will hit square on top of the input shaft..if you have rack and pinion, or if you have the recirculating ball(box mounted to the frame), the header will hit the tie rod and drag link