richracing

J Talor is actually helping me put my RB25 setup together right now. We are using a 100% stock RB25 w/t67 and shooting for around 450hp. I bought a Haltech e11v2 for tuning, but I think I'll be trading with Jon for his SDS setup.

I've been jumping around a bit, waiting on some small pieces for the engine, so I pulled the gas tank out, drained it, and waiting for the gas vapors to air out... Meanwhile, I installed my Arizona Z front brakes. Before... After... With my 15" wheels on...

This car is way to clean to do the slammed to the ground, dragging the frame, boso style

Did some test fitting today. With this turbo manifold, slight hammering or notching of the strut tower is required as the turbo barely touches.

Wow, that's awesome. Lets see those pics

2 5/8

Oh, and the finish that I used was Duplicolor bedliner spray. It is slightly more textured than oem, but that is probably because I held the can about 1.5 foot from the surface.

Hhmmm... I didn't think about this before. I ordered a non baffled sump for my build thinking it would be good enough, maybe we can get some good input on this so I know if I need to fab up a baffle for mine.

After sanding the foam down, I used some plastic bumper repair epoxy, then a thin layer of filler glaze to finish it off. Hopefully it holds up. If not, I just redo it using fiberglass or if I'm lazy... just buy a dash cap.

...Excuse the ghetto fab parts stand lol

I worked on the dash a little today... Grinded the cracks and filled them in with Great Stuff expanding foam

I'm gonna weld on a rear sump that I bought from Summit.

I would recommend to anyone using these gauges... buy 2 extra oem 280z clock gauges, because it makes for a super easy install. No cutting or trimming required.

Finally made it back to the states! So time to get to work on this thing... Lets start with the dash restoration and Speedhut gauges...

Yea, I got extended because I am reclassing and had to wait on the school date... but I fly back to the states in 3 days!

Wilwood 1" MC came in from Datsun Parts' Ebay store.

Welcome, I was also deployed to Iraq in 2004. Camp Babylon and Diwaniyah

I'm thinking 3" all the way back with an electric cutout, but I'll cross that bridge when i get there.

I figured it would be easy, like Goth said, just power and ground, but I wasn't sure if there were any hidden complications. Brackets shouldn't be too hard with the right tools... I'm not sure how the RX8 seats will fit though. I need to do some measuring.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=MF-RB20-TOP-T3&Category_Code= Here is the manifold. I got it off ebay, but i don't think it is for sale on there any more. The description says it fits RB20 and 25, so I don't know how well it would fit a 26. I will say this though... For a CX Racing manifold, it is built very well. The material used is really thick, welds look good, and looks good inside too. Soon enough I will see how it performs.

So I was looking around for different OEM seats that I could use in my '75 280z, and I ran across some RX8 seats for a good price. Only problem is that the driver's seat is power. This would actually be pretty damn cool if I could wire it up and have power/heated seats in my Z. Is there a write up somewhere on wiring power seats? Or can somebody with experience tell me how difficult this would be? Thanks.

I am currently in Korea and have been for the past 13 months, so I apologize for the lack of install pics. My friend Jon Taylor started tearing the old L28 out last month. I'll be home next month, so I'll take plenty of pics then.