richracing

those xxr 527's look alot better than I thought they would on an s30

just got off the phone with tech2, and they have everything you need to swap in a 2jz. thats pretty sweet since ill be doing a 2jz swap soon aswell.

looks awesome cpexcel!

I see you have an SR sitting in there. Ill probably be going that route soon

I painted it myself peice by peice in a friends garage. The wheels are 15" konig rewinds with 225 50 15 tires, no spacers yet Its just a rebuilt L28e. intake, cam, header, 2.5" exhaust. Im thinking of swapping to an SR but not 100% about that yet.

Meph, is that laguna seca blue on your Z? I just painted mine laguna seca blue and looks very close to yours. I'll post pics after its reassembled.

I am unfortunately going to have to sell this project. Im in the Army and just found out I am going to be stationed in Korea for a year and I have no where to put it. It sucks!

a few shots of mine...

yea ive read that thread a dozen times. i guess im just going to have to just get my hands dirty and figure it out. Im using GC coilovers and tokico illumina struts so...

Can somebody pleeeeaaaaaasssse post pics of this process or a step by step. I am about to section my struts and I dont feel like destroying my suspension because I dont completely understand the process. I am a visual learner, so while this may be great info for some people, it just gave me a headache lol... i guess thats normal since im a noob and my head is about to explode

makes me want to build a chop-top bug!

all stars won, i actually liked thier bug, but the center seat was retarded and pointless, not to mention the brake and gas pedals looked sketchy

Youre welcome dude, good luck with it!

Thats OK if you want to bring it down to bare metal and check for bondo/ cancer spots, but if all you want to do is paint it flat black, here is what you will need, assuming you dont have to do any bodywork... 1. DA sander (optional) unless you want to hand sand the whole thing 2. 320 grit DA sand paper (at least 20 sheets) 3. red scotchbrite scuff pad 4. a roll of masking paper (or a couple sunday newspapers lol) 5. paint gun (you can pick one up from harbor freight for cheap since you are just spraying some flat black) but if you planning on doing this more than once, buy yourself a devilbiss hvlp with 1.3 tip 6. 1 gal. paint (you have a couple options here, I would just use black primer, but you could also use black sealer, or google hotrod black) 7. paint hardener (mix as recommended for the paint you use) 8. gal. of paint thinner (use to clean gun after painting) 9. wax and grease remover 10. tac cloth 11. air blower 12. a couple rolls of masking tape ( the 3m green stuff is the best) 13. roll of blue mechanis paper towels 14. paint mixing cups (you should only need 2) 15. mixing sticks 16. paint strainers 17. I think thats about it... Here is what you need to do... 1. wash the car thoroughly 2. sand the whole thing with the 320 grit sand paper (this is where you you wish you had bought a DA sander) 3. use the red scotchbrite scuff pad to scuff up all the edges and spots hard to get with sand paper 4. the object is to take the shine out of the paint, not strip it all off. 5. once the car is completely sanded and there is absolutely no shine on it, use air blower to blow the dust off the car 6. mask off anything you do not intend to paint 7. damp paper towel with wax and grease remover, and wipe the whole car down. You may have to do this step twice, just depends 8. open gal. of paint, stir it thoroughly 9. pour into mixing cup, mix in hardener. You will have to check the product label to find out how to mix it 10. after paint is mixed, pour into paint gun using a strainer 11. wipe car down with tac cloth right before you are ready to paint 12. start spraying car using about a 50% overlap 13. you should only need 2 coats to get the car covered good 14. congrats, you are now done. disassemble your paint gun and clean it using paint thinner

definately post pics when you get them. I am thinking about buying a set of the new 526's for my s30

ok so I wired it up and she is running good and charging good, keeping steady around 14V. The plug going to the VR only had 5 wires, not 6. So this is how I wired it up: at the VR plug, white/black "L" connected to green wire "12V switched" with a diode between "1N5402" from radioshack, and yellow "S" connected to white wire "12V constant". I did not wire into the charge lamp bulb since that wire was not present at the VR plug. Everything seems to be working great so far, except the factory tach seems to be a little bouncy now at idle, ehh I can live with that.

I pulled the alteranator from my ZX so im sure its internal regulated, plus it says "REG buit in" on the label. I had both tested at the local Autozone, the s30 was bad but the s130 alt passed. Im just going to hook up the ZX alt today and bypass the external reg

So the alternator in my '75 280z just took a crap on me, but luckily I have a spare alt from my '82 ZX. However, when I compare the two alternators, they look the same in size. According to the writeup in AtlanticZ, the ZX alt is supposed to be noticeably bigger. Another thing I noticed was that the label on the ZX alt says 12v 50A. Aren't ZX alternators supposed to be 60 AMP??? Going back to the blown unit that was in my s30, it is a reman and doesnt have a label, but does have a part number stampped on it (14118) which when looked up at the parts store, shows that it is a 60 AMP unit. Did the P.O. already do the ZX alt swap? The external voltage regulator is still in the engine bay and the wire harness looks to be untouched. So all I can think of is that the P.O. just bolted up a ZX alt without modifying any wires... Also, my s30 has a volt meter, which must have been swapped out since '75 cars came with an ammeter. Right??? Volt meter works fine btw. So, Why does my s130 alt say 50A on the label? And should I go ahead and follow the instructions on AtlanticZ to install my ZX alt, or should I just bolt it up and ride out??? Here are some pics of the alternators to compare... s30 alt on the LEFT, and s130 alt on the RIGHT The label on my s130 alt, sorry for the dark pic...

your right fhptom, prob hasnt changed much. we are going to be moving to Ft. Bragg in July though. sticky280zx, damn right i need more low and less offset lol. gotta take care of paint and body first though.

I wanted to vomit when I saw them hack up the white 240z, What a waste... and the smack talking on Datsun was lame. "It's still a Datsun" LMAO!

as far as I know, its factory EFI. which also confuses me since everything I read says you can not use an aftermarket cam with factory electronics. eh, i dont know, it drives fine but it is seriously lacking power at WOT due to the richness. Ill just DD it around until I get megasquirt and can fine tune it. Thanks alot for the links, they are very helpful.

oh, i forgot to mention the reason I bought and adjusted the FPR is because the PO had blocked off the return on the fuel rail, and the fuel pressure was at 80-90 psi i put a factory fpr from my 280zx on it and got the fuel psi to 34'ish, then it ran really lean, (didnt have my wideband at that time, but the plugs were covered in white nastyness and didnt run so great) When I got my Fuel Lab FPR and wideband in the mail and installed, I adjusted the fuel psi until i got 14.5 - 15.0 afr at idle.