Tyler

Being cheap, I wanted to find an affordable filter for my newly acquired stacks. Let me know what you all think and what changes should be made. My main concerns are: 1. Safety (spit back from carbs) 2. Filtration 3. Durability The filter is made of a piece of shop vac sock filter sandwiched between two screens. Picture "1" is of the base layer Picture "2" is of the filter material Pictures "3" are of the finished product

I recently installed a Mr. Gasket 1-15 psi fuel pressure gauge so I can monitor the fuel going to my webers. Weird thing is when I tighten it down into the tee, the reading will go up to about 1.5-2 psi with nothing in it, but if I back it out, it'll read "0." I can't leave it backed out to where it reads zero or it is too loose. Anyone have the same problem? I contacted the company I bought it from, but no response yet. Also, if anyone is curious- I also bought a Mr. Gasket 1-5 psi FPR. It seems to be working just fine. Thanks!

I wish I had the room to set one of those bad boys up! I have a 3/4 car garage (you can barely get a car in there and then open the doors about a 1/4 way)!

I tried searching for an answer on here and through google and I couldn't find much about it. I've been looking for velocity stacks now and was recommended pierce manifolds. They have two styles available with two very different prices. What are the pros and cons of flange mount versus the insert type? The one that mounts outside is almost half the price. Flange Mount Insert Mount Thanks!

Thank you!

Still looking for velocity stacks, venturis and jets.

Ummm.... That's pretty damn COOL!

I'd be interested as well.

Thanks for the parts numbers.

Thanks all for the info!

So I was driving with my girlfriend today (destination Palm Springs) for a little getaway; half way there I hear, "Clunk, Clunk, BANG!" I pulled over on the 10 freeway to see that this completely separated on the passenger side from the rearend. My question to all you fine folks out there; What happened? Why would it pop out? Is it normal wear and tear for that to happen or is it something else that would cause that to happen? Another question, is the whole thing called a halfshaft and the part that popped out the U-Joint? How difficult would it be for a person like me (novice wrenching abilities, but the gumption to do) to fix it myself? Thanks!

Good stuff! Makes me want to drop an L28 in.

Nobody?

I cleaned the carbs with cleaner and reset the linkages. Seems to have helped some bit. A good amount of "brown" came out of them. No it'll hold idle fine, but I still get inconsistent idle rpm readings. At first it'll sit nicely at 700 rpm, but after driving it'll idle at 1000-1100. And then when I get into traffic it'll get back down to around 700-900 rpm. Maybe I need to clean them some more.

I cleaned the carbs with cleaner and reset the linkages. Seems to have helped some bit. A good amount of "brown" came out of them. No it'll hold idle fine, but I still get inconsistent idle rpm readings. At first it'll sit nicely at 700 rpm, but after driving it'll idle at 1000-1100. And then when I get into traffic it'll get back down to around 700-900 rpm. Maybe I need to clean them some more.

Emailed you about the louver.

I'm looking to play around with my 45 dcoe weber carbs. I need six of each these: Air Horns Chokes- 32mm and 34mm Main Jet- 130,135, 145 Air correction- 175, 180, 185, 190 Also, anyone have rear louver with hardware that'll fit a '72 240z? Thanks! Tyler

Thanks for the input, all. I'll be checking out everything you've said. Sorry about double posting, I was getting a bit worried seeing as how I daily drive it for work and needed to be up and running by 6 a.m.

I have raised the idle up, but it won't hold until after I manually hit the throttle on the linkage arms. I've had it set to about idling anywhere from 500-1100 rpm but still the same issue. How do you have it setup to adjust the idle with one screw? Any pictures? That would be awesome if I could. Thanks

I do have a synchrometer and I am having issues synching each carb. I can synch the ones direectly connected to the throttle linkage, but not the ones without. I think I may have to run them like you. Come to think of it, I have tried blipping the throttle by hand and pushing back and it feels like there is the slightest little give. Should I try something like a carb cleaner and see if it'll clean up any gunk? By the way, any pics of your carbs? I'd like to see how you have your linkage setup. Thanks a million!

I'm reposting this in here in of getting some more responses. Something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Also after some time driving trying to figure this out, the idle still draws to a stall and will have a hard time regulating the idle unless I manually press the throttle lever on the carbs. -Idle at 850 rpm. It drops to about 650-700 rpm with lights, fan, and radio on. -Idle screw down 3/32 of a turn past touching -Mixture screws set to 1 1/4 turn out all the way across For reference the carbs are: 45 DCOE 36mm choke 155 Main Jets 170 Corrector Jets 55 F8 Idle Jets F16 Emulsion tubes On my previous tune last where I microtuned with the ColorTune Tool for the mixture I got for the turns out #1- 1 1/4 #2- 1/1/4 #3- 3/4 #4- 1/1/4 #5- 3/4 #6- 3/4 Please HELP! Thanks Tyler

Something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Also after some time driving trying to figure this out, the idle still draws to a stall and will have a hard time regulating the idle unless I manually press the throttle lever on the carbs. -Idle at 850 rpm. It drops to about 650-700 rpm with lights, fan, and radio on. -Idle screw down 3/32 of a turn past touching -Mixture screws set to 1 1/4 turn out all the way across For reference the carbs are: 45 DCOE 36mm choke 155 Main Jets 170 Corrector Jets 55 F8 Idle Jets F16 Emulsion tubes On my previous tune last where I microtuned with the ColorTune Tool for the mixture I got for the turns out #1- 1 1/4 #2- 1/1/4 #3- 3/4 #4- 1/1/4 #5- 3/4 #6- 3/4 Please HELP! Thanks Tyler

WEIRD THING WITH THE IDLE So now something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Any ideas?

I don't have one, but will soon. Here's what I posted on my end results on classicz. So after getting really frustrated, I just rechecked, retightened, retuned my carbs. I Pulled vacuum lines off, pushed them back on tightly and ziptied them. I redid the arms on the linkage. I retuned the idle mixture and idle. Here's what I got. -Idle at 850 rpm. It drops to about 650-700 rpm with lights, fan, and radio on. -Idle screw down 3/32 of a turn past touching -Mixture screws set to 1 1/4 turn out all the way across For reference the carbs are: 45 DCOE 36mm choke 155 Main Jets 170 Corrector Jets 55 F8 Idle Jets F16 Emulsion tubes On my previous tune last night where I microtuned with the ColorTune Tool for the mixture I got for the turns out #1- 1 1/4 #2- 1/1/4 #3- 3/4 #4- 1/1/4 #5- 3/4 #6- 3/4 The car drove wonderfully, but I could not hold an idle at stop. Maybe due to incorrect jet sizing? Let's hope the idle holds fine tomorrow! Tyler

'72 240z- triple 45 dcoe weber carbs Hi, I have a problem with my idle. When the car is warmed up and sitting and idling it holds at about 500 rpm just fine, but sometimes when I drive it and come to a stop it'll slowly stumble to about 300 rpm and then die on me. I'm not too sure that's going on. Help! Thanks Tyler