naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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You'd tune it using the AFM and reading the O2 with a wide band sniffer kinda like reading a carbed engine. No software for the ECU.
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hahaha. but the im ♥♥♥♥ outta luck if you get it working. that would just mean im out $200. lol.
Oh I'd get it working. I build the MS ECUs for fun.
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how do i get a general idea of what my afr is with a narrow band 0².
Ok new instructions, disconnect ECU, pack into box with sufficient padding, mail it to me.
Or, read instructions: http://megasquirt.info
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i think im going to order a new board and a stim board. i dont trust this ecu. i called the dude about the ms not powering on and left a v-mail, he never got back to me. he sold me his "intercooler piping" and it ended up being a ghetto mangled jacked up piece of aluminum piping coupled to the stock j-pipe to fit his 60mm tb. there was no intercooler involved at all. and theres more. i got ripped off something fierce.
send the old ecu to me if you don't want it. I'll pay for shipping..
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i do but its not a wideband
Doesn't matter, you can still get a general idea of your afr from it.
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ok well couldn't hurt.
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Thanks for the help!
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Yes I would recommend using an oil/additive high in zinc for the l28. As for the initial start instructions, I've never heard of anyone doing that, but I'm not a cam manufacturer.
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I build my own guide tools, on a lathe. You cannot use a flat punch or something, if that is what you are asking. It has to have a pilot, that barely slips in the guide (basicly the size of the valve.) Then you have to have an OD that is about .005" smaller than the od of the guide. Then you cannot have any radius on the corner of the smaller to larger diameter portion of the guide tool.
Got it, work around the guides.
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Ex, guides I take flush, Intake guides I leave stock length, as they dont hurt any flow, and the larger valve benifits from the extra support. I just drive the intake guides out, then drive them back in when finished.
What do you use to drive them out with and is it something I can do at home (decent garage, not a machine shop)?
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All porting needs to be done after seats are installed.
Sweet, so just be careful not to nick the seats and I should be fine. What about the guides? I see most of your port work has the guides removed (or cut completely down flush?), so should I have the guides pressed out, or just leave them in and work around them? What would you recommend? You are one of the resident experts here and I'll take you word as gospel.
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My stepdad has a set of black 'n decker(or some similar brand) of multi-tool battery operated stuff. Has a flash light, a power screw driver, and a mini sawzall. I've been using the mini battery powered sawzall to remove the rusted half of my dash board, works decent for that. I don't think it'd have the juice to make it through a floor pan or rails though. Do battery tools really count as "power" tools though? They just have such little umph to 'em usually :-/
Ummm, sounds like cheap tools to me. I've got some battery powered dewalt and makita tools that are just as powerful as the plug in and air operated stuff. Those cost a pretty penny though.
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How do you power power-tools in the middle of a junk yard?
Battery operated tools are wonderful.
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As the title says, is safe to do some mild port work on my N42 head with the seats and guides still in? Any advice to get the most for my time spent without going overboard?
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Ok so much for the frame rails. Does anyone know where I can get frame rails for a 2+2. I had a miscommunication with Zed Findings, he meant he doesn't make rails for a 2+2.
HELP!
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Sounds like you're running rich. Don't you have an O2?
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According to your msq you're listing the ecu type as microsquirt, that probably needs to be changed to MS-II.
Also the Accell Enrichments are high. You're showing a max enrichment of 15ms. Remember these values are plus whatever pulse width is already there, so by blipping the throttle you're going from 2-4ms +15ms or 17-19ms pulse widths which would be off the map.
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Look elsewhere. I bought a V07 crank from him while I was in Iraq the first time. Got back and found he had shipped me a standard l28 crank with the part numbers worn off. He said he had only one crank he thought was a V07 and that if it wasn't then someone else sold him a bad crank and there was nothing he could do about.
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You need to eliminate the stock pump altogether. It's pointless to have that in place with the MSD. And your Megasquirt is connected to the system how?
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The only time I see your pulse width going high is when you make sudden throttle changes. It appears you're blipping the throttle occasionally and the pw jumps to 18-20 which is very high. I'll stand with the assumption that you have your injectors firing once per cycle instead of twice. Post up your msq and we can take a look at that.
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Pulse width going off the map means you're probably firing once per cycle when you should be firing twice.
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If it was wired up as stock then yes it would have a lot to do with the stock system, but if you wired in a relay yourself then no. Why feed a msd pump with a 90psi stock efi pump?
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Ever have one of those moments that makes you feel like you've wasted so much time and effort for nothing at all? I just did.
I received an email from Jon at Motorsport auto about my order. He informed me that my cam was shipped, but my head gasket was on backorder for an undetermined amount of time. I'm sure this is already well known around the forum and I should have searched, but apparently they get their gaskets from Nissan, who has stopped producing them with no eta for reproduction. Anyhow, I had ordered a 2mm head gasket from MSA back in 2005 for my 77 project that I've hardly even dented the surface of. Well I could never find the 2mm head gasket from that order and of course by the time I went looking for it, I was too late, the order was months old because I was in Iraq at the time. Well fast forward to today I asked Jon if they might have shipped a gasket in a box sized for a body kit (being that the body kit was the only box I hadn't opened). He says it's possible. Low and behold, I cut open one end of the massive box my body kit is in and there it sits, like it was waiting for this moment, a brand new unopened 2mm MLS head gasket. To top it off, all the ports that were blocked by my previous gaskets are now open with this gasket lined up. It's thick, very well made and just make me smile to think about how my engine will run once this fiasco is complete. Anyhow, I felt like a fool for never looking inside the box, but I'm kind of glad I didn't somehow.
my s130 digital temp gauge doesnt work...
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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Ummm, sounds like multiple problems. Have you checked the connections to make sure they're good and clean? The digi dashes have always had lighting issues. I tried one and it gave me a headache, but that's besides the point. The single wire on the thermostat housing gives a signal to the gauge only. There's a cylinder head temp sensor that feeds the ecu which is probably where your problem is coming from.