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naviathan

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Posts posted by naviathan

  1. I guess there is one thing that everyone is sort of forgetting about. If you really want to save fuel, and put out insane numbers, its going to happen at interstate speeds. This is where the Z fails, because of its poor aerodynamics.

     

    Take a look at any high mileage production car out there, and there have been sacrifices made for aerodynamics. The CRX hf had no hatch wiper and no passengers side mirror.

     

    The insight has EXTENSIVE aero consideration.

     

    Personally, if I was hunting for a car to "hypermile" in I would go for a Geo metro.

     

    as a side note, I was totally anal about logging all my fuel mileage numbers (i'm talking excel spreadsheet with correction factors here), until I realized that I wasn't having fun driving my car anymore and all I could think about was how poor the mileage was. The next thing to do, for me at least, was to stop logging the mileage, and not think about the mileage.

     

    Now I just enjoy the ride.

    The Z might not be the best car for "hypermiling", but I don't think it has anything to do with the aerodynamics. Sure the aerodynamics aren't the best, but they're adequate enough for 65mph. The problem I see is the gear ratios. Especially with the automatics. My Fairlady automatic runs over 3k RPMs at 60mph. I couldn't see trying to stretch it out on the highway to 80mph. I wish I could find a higher gear rear end or another transmission (automatic, the wife drives it too) to lower RPMs. I'd prefer something like the diff that was on the forums recently. I just can't see spending the money and I don't need LSD. I'm not concerned with performance in that car, just looks.

  2. I started hypermiling my WRX last week and quit today. :icon43:

     

    Normally I drive like a bat out of hell, on boost, passing and cruising at 5000rpms just to hear the boxer. I get around 23mpg. This past tank I went easy, low revs, no passing, no racing....I grannied over to the gas station at lunch time and got 25.3mpg. Screw it. I'm going back to lead foot. :icon54: Look out!

    Yeah for all 2.3 extra mpg I'd rather have fun when I drive.

    I bought the wife a 2004 Suzuki Forenza for a good gas mileage little mommy car. We got 27.5mpg on the first tank and that wasn't babying the car. And it needs a MAP sensor. Gotta go pick one up from the dealer...Damned Suzuki, everything is dealer only except the O2?!?! Anyhow, for $5500 I can play with my Zs and my Ranger and still have the wife's for good gas mileage.

  3. Not that anyone should condone treating a nice car like that, but ... Does he know that it is somebody's car, and that it's not just a junker put together by the studio only to look nice on camera. He might think that the studio bought all of the cars and that they're expecting them all to be damaged in shooting anyway. Still, "don't sit on someone else's car" is a pretty simple rule-of-thumb.

    Nah, he's just rich and full of himself. Looks much shorter than I expected...

  4. The Zs usually don't like platinum plugs and run much better on the stock. As for a newer auto, I don't think they'll really make any real difference. What they claim and what they do is usually two different things. I would stick with stock plugs and save your money by not buying unnecessarily expensive parts.

  5. If it is vapor lock then the car should have started once everything cooled down. Get a FSM from http://carfiche.com and do the tests for the ignition system. Also check out Blue's Tech Tips for the EFI bible and some other good info. Check fuel pressure, spark, timing, injectors, fuel pump, etc... There's many things that need to be checked that you haven't yet. The L series engine is actually a very very reliable engine so long as it's well taken care of.

     

    Also, this should be under the S30 forum, not the non tech board.

  6. MS has cold start settings, but without some sort of cold start valve to increase air intake during warm up the settings will just make your car run pig rich on warm up which will make it take longer to get to operating temps. You need a valve, but the cold start injector isn't necessary as MS will increase the fuel during warm up on it's own. Now for cold start valves you can use the stock which is nothing more than a bimetal heater that closes a large "vacuum leak" as the car warms up, or you can use a GM style idle air controller with one of the various bodies available on the market. There's lots of options out there, it's all dependent on what you want to do.

  7. The air regulators are nothing more than a heating element that expands a bimetal contact that closes the air opening. On a cold day it probably will take a lot longer for the regulator to close up. The O2 shouldn't kick on until after the 5 minute (roughly) warm up process completes.

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