naviathan
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Posts posted by naviathan
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I'm confused, the car hardly makes any noise and it looks like you're casually driving down a straight strip of road.
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Although I know a few junkyards that would let me take anything I want in, nobody out here has Z cars. I have a parts car I could pull it from...if that section is in good shape. Have to check. Thanks for the bump Yasin.
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Thanks for the heads up on the thread.
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After my new fairlady got rained on for the first time I noticed a lot of water pooled up in both floorboards. Curiosity hit me and pulled up the driver side carpets to find a lovely rust hole through to the frame rail that I thought was solid:
Now I know I can easily patch that bit of floorboard because the hole isn't too bad and the rest of the board is solid (I checked). I need frame rails though because the only thing that kept this rail looking solid was the undercoating on the car. I emailed Zed Findings about new rails, but have yet to hear back from them and it's been over a week. Anyone on here know who I can contact about frame rails for an 82ZX 2+2?
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Yep, it's about time, but I did it. I finally got around to pulling the head off the 81 again. Judging by the white crust in the exhaust ports of cylinders 3,4,5 and 6 I really did a number on this one. All part of the learning curve I guess. N42 head + F54 Flat Top = 10:1 Compression and on 87 octane it makes bad things happen. Fortunately it looks like the head gasket was the only failure. Number 6 blew on the head side of a blocked water jacket; why is this water jacket blocked? Pics:
Gasket blown on head side...
Block water jacket at the blown spot...
Head water jacket at the blown spot...
Why block a water jacket in the rear of the engine where we have the worst problems with hot spots?
Anyhow, working on ARP head studs, 2mm MLS head gasket, 34# injectors, 14mm o-ring fuel rail end maybe a mild port job while the head is off.
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I drive my Zs hard and although I haven't tried the T5 I can tell you the NA 5 speeds don't take a beating well. I've been through 4 of them on one Z, but in all fairness to the transmissions they were all well used junkyard pulls that felt fine at first but after a few spirited back road runs they wore out quickly. Current trans seems fine though. It's lasted the longest and was supposedly rebuilt by the previous owner although the shifter is sloppy for a rebuild.
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Any head will fit, but why not just have the valve seats replaced with steel ones?
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I think the guy actually took his stupidity well and put it out there for everyone else to see and not make the same mistake. Granted most people would read before dumping a bottle in their engine, but still.
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Seen it on Chevys, never on an L6. My only thought would be a 240/260 cali model to meet emissions.
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On May 15 2008 at 4:35AM my son Jayden was born. He surprised us by 15 days. So here are some pictures of the latest edition to the family (and future Z Car fanatic of course).
He sleeps a lot...
He didn't like being unwrapped for his diaper change.
He's ready for the garage...
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I wish there were more Z people around here.
Congratz on the work accomplishment and good luck with the rest.
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i too am haning problems with my n42, its on a non turbo and i just put it on and i had a vac leak but fixed it. i dont have an aac valve b/c i put a 240sx tb on it with the trigger style tps. it has a rough idle, no power and when wide open it stalls out. any suggestions?
What do you mean by trigger style TPS? And what ECU do you have running this?
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ok so my z has a 350 crate engine with a 750 carb and my fuel pump went out on me and I didnt do the swap myself plus the car wasnt running great with the old one anyway so I need to pick a completly new one, but im not sure what gph or psi it should be able to make, help appreciated, btw my engine does about 250 at the wheels
I think I just went cross eyed trying to read that giant run-on sentence...
This gets my vote for Run-On of the Week!
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I'm well aware...I've seen that wreck...I mean movie many times.
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My ZXT had the breathing thing going on when I didn't have the vacuum lines for the VCM hooked up correctly. As I've learned you don't need any of those. I've blocked off pretty much everything on the ZXT intake. With the N42 being so limited in vacuum ports all you really would need to have hooked up is the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Brake Booster, and the optional charcoal canister if you don't want any extra gas fumes.
One thing that just came to mind, if you didn't hook up the charcoal canister, there is a little port on the underside of the throttle body for hooking up one of the charcoal canister lines. If you don't happen to have anything hooked to it, there would be a vacuum leak.
That port only draws vacuum when the throttle plate is open.
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I think these are the same wheels I have on my 77.
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Here's a direct quote from Skulte that contradicts your 'simple grade school logic':
Do the bolt-on wheel adapters increase the load on suspension parts?
The suspension loads are only affected by the centerline of the tire. Billet adapters usually correct offset issues when bolting newer style high offset wheels onto older cars that were designed with low offset wheels. A wheel with a 51mm offset and a 2" adapter is identical to the suspension as a 0mm factory wheel. This loads are the same on the wheel studs, bearings, bushings, because the wheel is in exactly the same location on the car. If it helps, imagine two identical wheels, with only the offset being different. Bolt the 2" adapter to the 51mm offset wheel, and it will measure exactly the same as the 0mm offset wheel.
I don't understand how you can't see the obvious forces of leverage. The thing the statement made above isn't taking into account is that the lugnut mounting surface on the wheel isn't changing thickness when you get a properly fit wheel, but with a spacer or an adapter that's exactly what is changing.
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| |--| Normal Offset
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| |-| FWD Wheel Offset
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| |-|-| FWD Wheel with added spacer to offset.
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The point of force with the FWD wheel doesn't change in relation to the wheel with or without the adapter. It does change in relation to the hub mounting surfaced though which increases the force through leverage. I can't make it any simpler. Honestly though, do you really think a website that sells adapters/spacers is going to tell you that yes it will increase the stress on your car? Yeah that's good for business.
I don't think the added stress is enough to cause excess wear or breakage on the car myself, but I do understand the point that others are trying to make when they say they won't use spacers/adapters. -
There's nothing wrong with my logic. A deep dish puts the weight center of the rim at the hub where as a spacer extends the mount surface for the hub thereby increasing the leverage/force exerted on the studs and hub bearings. It's simple grade school logic, increased leverage increases force applied with a constant force exerted. It may not be a large enough increase in force to do any damage when your parts are good, but some people are slapping adapters and spacers on old lugs and bearings that can't take the added (slight or not) stress.
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As long as it's not intercooled.
Agreed.
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The car went 13's with a pretty nicely built n42 block with e88 head... But this year I just have a p79 with f54 block... is it possible to turbo charge carbs? that may be dumb but i mean if you force air into the SU carbs is it just gonna break them? ha i am just trying to find a quick fix i have a budget of $1200 and two weeks... This motor seems to build much nicer with the lightweight fly wheel then the previous one but it might be my imagination... Woudl it be a good idea to buy some slicks for the back? I tend to spend the wheels going through first and beggining of second...
Yes you can turbo carbs, but it's a lot of work tuning. I think you're best bet with the money you have would be to deck the head, shim the cam towers, maybe port the head some, and tune it really well. Get that compression back up. If you turbo I think it'll break your budget.
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so what is everyone refering to when they say things like "i would never use spacers"
why not? what's so bad about them.
bartman i read the link you posted and it says spacers don't put any stress on your hub, bearings, bushings or wheel studs. but if you use just slip on spacers it does make more strees on ONLY your wheel studs and NOTHING else.
so now i'm asking why do people hate using wheel spacers?
When using FWD rims on a Z the rim center coupled with the necessary spacers to fit pushes the weight placement out away from the hub. If you think about leverage, when we make our pry bar longer we create more force without increasing pressure. Ergo when we make our hub longer with a spacer we're creating more force on the bearings and the studs which can (no one is saying it absolutely will) cause more wear and shearing force on said components. Some people just prefer not to run that risk.
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....Wow....I tink I was just becum dumber by dis....
:shock::shock::shock:AHHHHHHH! Ok I'm better now. That hurts....
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LOL, Yep I've done this pulling a motor and trans together once. I felt really dumb afterwards.
I think we've all done it at one time or another. Very embarrassing.
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This thread has been a bumpy road let's get it back on topic. What engine would be a good choice to make a Z get outstanding mileage without being too slow to drive safely.
I am going out on a limb to say an early 1990's 1.5 Honda motor with a TON of mods to be able to mount it longitudinally in the Z.
It worked in my Civic so it should work in a Z.
I would go with the KA24 on MS2.
I don't think the added stress is enough to cause excess wear or breakage on the car myself, but I do understand the point that others are trying to make when they say they won't use spacers/adapters.
:shock:
Blowing up coil's like they are sparklers...
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
This might help:
Courtesy of mobythevan and the Megasquirt thread you might use this diagram for the pin out of the 4 wires.