Jsquared

Z32 and S13 rear parts are almost all the same... RUCA, toe link, traction rod are the same, not sure about RLCA. Upright is the same except for where the shock mounts to the upright (S13s can use Z32 shock, S14 can use R33 shock... or Z32 lower fork on a coilover), and the Z32 upright is aluminum versus the S13/S14 steel. The difference is the subframe itself, and the Z32 NA uses an R200 that will work in an S13/S14 subframe (need 5-bolt j30 axles though), vs the Z32TT R230. Don't know which of you guys have S13/S14, but if you do you probably know all this already, I'm just throwing it out there as specificly as I can type it at 2am for the benefit of all the other people reading and since I don't have an S30 of my own yet, how much wider would the track be with an S14 subframe? I know the S14 subframe is wider than the S13s by an inch or two (forget... it's been a while since I read that; some guy crammed an S15 subframe into his S13).

I have though about something similar, and I don't even own an S30 yet! I actually though about Z32 fronts (camber upper arm instead of MacP strut) and S13 rear (same arms as Z32, narrower subframe I *think*, same R200 as Z32 NA). Especially since I can get an S13 rear subframe ubercheap and I already have a decent bit of experience with my S13's suspension setup (now to just earn those last few bucks to get those adjustable RUCAs! haha). I really don't like MacPherson strut in general, since I'm a nerd... heck half of the reason I considered the much more expensive RB swap (with much more power than I have the skill for too ) is because I don't like the design of the L28's head. I haven't found a chassis yet (probably won't for a few months, got to finish up the S13 and take it to some HPDEs before I sell it) so I haven't been able to measure or mock up anything. Most likely I'll use the Keep It Simple, Stupid approach overall with the car... stock MacP strut front/rear and L28ET to keep costs down and have less things to adjust If nobody else comes up with an answer for your question in the next four months or so, remind me as I should hopefully have an S30 to work on by then

very nice. now you just need to put some monitoring gauges in the center stack and you'll be set are the green reflections in the tach the "new" turn signal indicators?

hey 240Z_Master... if you can get similar stuff to Phase2 at more competitive prices... how much for the Sunline oil distribution block for the SR20? It's friggin nice but I can't justify ~$250 for it, even though it's a lot better than the $20 spin-on adapter I have...

IIRC, 7,000rpm is redline on RB20 (maybe 25 as well) and 8,000rpm is redline on the RB26. I have yet to see a STOCK (no daughterboard) Nissan ECU with a higher revlimit than redline, but then again I'm used to the 4bangers

n00b here. First of all, I want to say thanks for putting together such a great resource for Z cars, and second I want to make sure I don't get on anyone's nerves I am known to be a bit... opinionated to put it nicely. If I get out of line, feel free to tell me to shaddup and sit down I am usually a fairly laid-back person, but every now and then someone will "hit the red button" and activate one of my oddball pet peeves. I'll do my best to be kind and tactful...

slightly, yes. I do know a number of people in NC that own shops or have distributiorships, so I'm not used to paying retail, but Phase2 is reputable and can get stuff that some other places can't.

dammit people... S13 redtop and S13 blacktop have the same head EXCEPT that the S13 blacktop has cooling ribs externally. As do late redtops (last half-year or so of "redtop" production before they changed the valvecover color, so the 94-and-up 180SXs that still had S13 SRs would visually match the then-new S14 with variable-valve blacktop SRs). blacktop S13 SR has ribbed undersides of the pistons as well to help with cooling. S14 SR and S15 SR (all blacktops) are the ones with the variable valve timing (hump in the valvecover that peaks at cyl #3). electronics: redtop S13 SR and 94-96 blacktop SR are the same except for the O2 sensor (don't think wiring changed, just the size of the sensor... 75% sure on that). 97-98 S13 SR blacktops had the different wiring and ECU. Just like 94-96 S14 SR and 97-98 S14 SR had different wiring and ECU.

HAHAHA! exchange "safe" for "crap" and you'll be right on the money. I've seen anywhere from 11.5:1 to 13:1 on JWT mail-order ECUs, and they've all had crappy timing maps. S13 SR, S14 SR, S14 KA-T, Z32 twin, etc. If you're not local where they can tune it on a dyno, don't bother ordering JWT ECUs. Their SR20DET cams are supposed to be pretty good though. So you're taking a poorly-reprogrammed ECU revlimit as fact and cold, hard real-world information for granted? 7500rpm, 7700-7800 if you have Rocker Arm Stoppers and a sense of adventure. Much above that and you need solid lifters... no. You can either get a set of drop-in side-feeds for $300 or less, or get a set of top-feeds and a low-cost top-feed rail. stock manifold.

don't go above 12-13psi without having the car on a dyno when you do it. wideband will let you know what's happening... some cars have maxxed the OEM MAFS (depends on plumbing, ambient conditions, etc). injectors can handle 13psi happily, 14-15 if you bump the fuel pressure a tad. t25 doesn't like to be strained, I personally won't ever set mine above 14psi, but it tapers off like crap above 5500 rpm anyway, the thing is too dang small. A T28 is definately an improvement; if you can get your hands on an S15 T28 and some 550 injectors you're good for just about 300wHP with good tuning...

it's amazing how many people like to comment about SR vs. KA, and none of them have experience with either one. I would take Hugh's info over most everyone else here. The KA24DE-T most certainly does NOT "suck" as one ill-informed user put it. 630wHP with just rods/pistons (bigass turbo/injectors and GOOD tuning... no headwork! just cams...) on a KA24DET, and I'm sure everyone by now should know that four people in the US have knocked down over 530wHP on STOCK bottom-end SR20DETs. It's harder to make an argument for a KA24DE-T on a car that didn't come with a KA (which would obviously make the to-do list a bit simpler ), but it's still a darn good engine. It can spool a turbo quicker than the SR, and it makes more torque, and parts are a bit easier to find. Of course, the SR is about 50 lbs lighter, with a bit of that weight further back (with stock exhaust manifold and the like), and the SR is ~140+ lbs lighter than the RB20/25 engines. The SR is more stout to begin with, but all you really need to do on the KA is a set of pistons... unless you want more than 550wHP, in which case you might want to see a shrink before you start turning wrenches hehehe. And either option will take noticeable weight off the front of an old-school Z-car, which will help overall power-to-weight and will shift some of the distribution towards the rear. Of course, then you're stuck with the not-so-nice 4-banger exhaust noise... my SR doesn't sound that bad for a 4-banger, but it's certainly no inline-6.

most of the stuff I've seen from Venus is junk, at least the stuff they send to us East-Coasters Phase 2 Motortrend is a well-known and well-respected source/shop in the 240SX community.

DO NOT buy ANYTHING from Venus Auto. EVER. Jarco is pretty good, Japan Direct in Raleigh is a tad pricey but worth it. Austin, if you ever need a hand with anything, don't hesitate to let me know. I'm thinking of ditching the S13 (once it's back together and I take it to an HPDE or two) and going with some sort of fiddled-with S30