deja

Awesome site, how is it I never saw this in the past 9 years, LOL! I went to Courtesy and saw the $9 bolt. I have never bought anything from them because of their prices.

I'll try the dealer, but the last time I went there and mentioned a 280Z the parts dude looked at me like I was crazy!

Hey Ryan . Yeah I saw those. That's a crazy price for 4 bolts. I am switching half shafts from my 280zx to Wolf Creeks. I sold all the old 280Z u-joint parts but scored the diff half stubs and the companion flanges but I don't have the bolts for the companion flanges, I need 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers. I just ordered some bolts that will work but they are not shoulder bolts. It would be nice to have the right stuff but I'm not paying $100 for 8 bolts!!!!

Thanks, any idea where I can get the shoulder type bolts?

What is the size of the 4 bolts and nuts that hold the outer u-joint to the companion flange on a 280Z?

I need a set on 280z R200 side shafts, the parts the connect the diff to the half shafts. Found them

Anyone that has converted to a V8 knows putting dual exhaust in our cars is tough. The pipes aren’t the big issue its mufflers. It is nearly impossible to tuck two mufflers up and they become the lowest point under the car. I have been running glass packs for 5 years and they show the results of hitting speed bumps and potholes. The mufflers finally fell apart inside so I needed to get new ones. I had read about chambered mufflers and had decided when the time came to replace the glass packs I would get them. I am more than pleased with the results. They are actually quieter than the old glass packs I was running. But the best thing is the 1500 rpm I have dealt with for years is gone. http://classicchambered.com/

I will bookmark these guys for future use.

It seems the outer boots for the 280zx turbo haft shafts is no longer available. I searched for hours last night and found nothing The ones I got from Black Dragon a few years ago didn't last too long (like less than 30K miles) and even BD doesn't have the outers anymore. I would assume Datsun made the bend over thing with the bonded boot for a reason but does anyone know what happens if you just put a standard crimped on boot on the outers instead of the stock bend over ones? Or a source for the stock type boots I haven't found yet? Fortunately I have an extra set of haft shafts so the car is on the road again. But the boots on those don't look like they have much life left in them.

I I hear ya, but I'm ashamed to say I left my camera at home.

I jumped out of character a bit yesterday and went to the NOPI nationals in Atlanta. Our car club had a booth there and I was asked to bring my Z for display purposes. Aside from the ridiculously loud speaker system, the idiotic obnoxious DJ for the burnout and hydraulic demos and the huge caddy SUV with a over the top sound system driving way too many speakers right across the road from us it was a great time. Fortunately they did play a variety of music so it wasn't all bad! The drag racing was only bracket racing so that was not all that exciting but there were some crazy fast tuner cars. The drifting was pretty cool, looks like it would be fun.......if you had a tire sponsor, LOL. The Datsun and Nissan nation was very well represented in the different competions, the car show and the spectator's parking area. There were more Skylines than I have ever seen in one place, tons of GTRs, a cool 510 2 door and a many really nice Z cars. All in all I was glad I agreed to go. I saw cars in the car show and in the spectator parking area that I never see at my usual car shows and cruise-ins. I met a lot of nice people including a few from this board. Oh yeah, there was that bikini contest!!!!

I made two plates with 3/8" nuts welded to them to accept the bolts for the tranny mount. Don't rely on that thin floor to hold the transmission. I used 3/8" grade 8 bolts to fasten the mount to those plates.

This is such sad news. He was responsive and supportive in all my dealings with him. I have many of Ross's parts on my 280Z and each and every one worked perfectly. His contributions and inovations to our Z community will live on he will be greatly missed.

I think it was around $100. One of the things he found with my engine was the fuel injectors were running very close to lean at wide open throttle. He suggested going to 30 lb injectors, which I did. He also said I should get the Corvette knock sensor even though he saw no false knocks. His changes made a real difference, mainly because the program I was running did not take advantage of the LT4 cam kit. My gas mileage even went up a little!

Sorry, no advice on TunerCat. I have it to download the programs but have not attempted any PCM programming myself. I have pretty much the same setup up as you except I'm running a 4L60E tranny. I used http://lt1pcmtuning.com/ to get mine programmed. He is very reasonable and helpful. For the money I think its an awesome deal. My file won't do you any good because I'm running an automatic.

I have a modified LT1 in my 280Z and love it. The LT1 will be cheaper to do than an LS. I believe the kits are cheaper, got mine form JTR. The down side of the LT1 is the availability of upgrades. There just isn't much out there. The LT1 was only made for 4 years. The LS series is a much better, more efficient and more reliable engine, but you pay for that. At the time I did mine the LS1 was twice the price of a LT1 just for the engine, that is not true any more because of the available sources for the LS engines. Although I love my car and the conversion is awesome if I were going to do it all over again I would go LS.

Exactly. I did that to my Z and to my '70 AMX too. Messy stuff but it work great. Advice.... buy the small cans, read the instructions and don't get any on you!

If you use POR-15 you really don't need to worry about the pitted areas, POR stands for Paint Over Rust. Just get the loose rust off as best you can. It does not stick well to paint so get that off or at least scuff the hell out of it. Using thier metal prep works great but I've also used a good paint prep degreaser. Make sure the surface is very dry before using POR-15 or it will fisheye. I also had good results with heating the metal with a heat gun to be sure no moisture or oils are left on the metal. Let it sit for a couple days before putting any sound deadener over it. I have used polyurethans caulk from Home Depot. This stuff is geat, never get really gard and its paintable. It does take a couple day to setup.

LOL, I'm probably older than you. I have no clue how I pulled that out of my brain!

I'm running a Camaro fuel tank and the stock GM fuel pump. Not the easiest thing I put in my car but it works great. Areomotive just announced at SEMA a custom in tank pump that might work for you. But of course anything from Areomotive is going to be expensive. I saw a demo of it on one of the Power Block shows on speed a couple weeks ago, looks pretty cool.

Come to Caffeine and Octane the first Sunday of each month. There are about 10-15 Zs that show up each month. http://www.caffeineandoctane.com/index.php/directions/

I had lt1 pcmtuning.com do some tuning on my PCM and the results were amazing. I have a LT4 cam kit in my engine and Solomon made some tweaks to provide for that change. Basicaly you tell him what you have done to the engine, what you want removed, tire size, rear gear ratio, and send him the download from your PCM. He puts in the changes and sends it back, You make a few runs, capture the data and send it back. He will fine tune it and make some suggestions, you get 3 tunes and it all for around $100.

I would ask question as to why they are not steel. Look in the fender well and see if the steel outter is still there and welded to the inner fender. If its not that car would be dangerous to drive, there is no real frame in a 280Z.

The rear quaters are steel. 280Z is a unibody, the inner rear fenders are welded to the outer rear fender. If that is not the caes in that car run away. There may be flares added which would probably be fiberglass. Even if the fenders were cut to add flares for wider tires the inner and outer fenders have to be rewelded to maintain that unibody. There are also some widebody kits that can be bonded over top of the steel fenders.