jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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I saw a couple on ebay 2 weeks ago for that price-guess I didn't realize they were quite that high-I bought mine from the power plant I work at-got the welder and a little off-road cart for $200
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Hi Larry-yep you got yerself a early 74 -blinkers under bumper, narrow 240 style bumper as opposed to big, wide 280 style on the later models-If you go by production dates, I think the changeover happened in about May of 74, but I could also be totally wrong on that one
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The stock cam has a lift of ~.275 I think-that .460 cam you're thinking of is the same grind I used in my 76, but I also had an E31 head and triple webers, header, etc--that tall cam may not work well if you still have the EFI setup on it-it will make the engine more aggressive, and you will probably end up with your idle set around 1200 RPM just so it'll stay running.
IMHO, unless you are going to also make changes to the induction and exhaust, I would stay with a much milder cam; if you decide to go with the taller cam, do a search for a place called Delta Camshafts in Tacoma, WA-that's where I got my cam-it was around $40 for a reground-never had a problem with it in 5 years
Jim
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MM--I can't answer all the questions-but I can give ya my .02--I just bought a Hobart Handler 135 wirefeed Mig-it works with both flux-core (no gas) or Argon sheilded wire, and can weld up to 3/16" metals. If you shop around a little, you can find this welder for about $325.
A gas rig will give you much cleaner welds, if you can afford it, make sure you get one-a bottle of gas will last a fairly long tim e, depending on how usage-call your local welding supply, and they can let you know how much a bottle is (rental or buy, plus cost of gas)
TIG is not as widely used because of the skill level needed, as far as I know--yes it is a very precise welder like you said, but without the right training, it does you no good-wheras a MIG is a little more forgiving (I learned how to MIG in a couple days of practicing with chunks of scrap)
All the associated stuff (mask, gloves, etc) you can pick up at home depot-decent gloves to protect your hands-a mask/goggles can get expensive if you get the auto-darkening kind ($100+) The Hobart welder comes with a regulator, and hose. I don't use a respirator often-I usually make sure I'm welding in a well vented area-unless you're working with galvanized metal (the gases given off are very nasty crap)
Hope all this rambling helps
Jim
[ June 24, 2001: Message edited by: jimzdat ]
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Jamie-I know that my 76 2+2 has(had) a R200 in it-3.54 ratio-I'm not sure if they cahnged that for the ZX.
As far as the carbs go; yes the stock 71 had the SU "style" carbs (made by Hitachi if I recall)-and there were a few differences even then-3 or 4 screw dashpots, adjustment knob differences, etc.
I just recently bought a 260 that had earlier carbs on an L28, and they had a serious vac leak due to worn throttle shafts-If you want to increase the drivability level, and don't mind dropping a few bucks-look into having Scott Bruning (http://www.ztherapy.com) do a "rebush" on them-at $175, it's cheaper than the full service, and it fixes the biggest problem with them-I had it done to mine, and it made a world of difference-I can actually get the thing to idle now
Drax, he might be lucky enough to get the E31, but I wouldnt bet on it-they only had something like a 9 month production run-most of the ones I've seen were on 70 models-but if it is-it is the one you want to use
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I think you just might be right Drax-I took my E31 in a few years ago to have 280Z valves put in it, and they said that the head already had hardened seats in it, and they were just able to cut them oversize for the new valves-ran that head until I took apart my car with never a single problem. (And that was with a .460" lift cam in it to boot)
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If anybody needs 280 parts bug him!But you better be quick about it-'cause some of these parts are going in my 260
(Thanks again, Rob)
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Drax, it's on the main page of search results--30 bux and it too can be yours
Just my experience with this company--the owner (Ken Beard) is a damn nice guy-only had one problem, and he called me to let me know about it, and it was fixed ASAP-I would recommend him to anyone who wants decent service, and an honest opinion if you are about to do something stupid.
Jim
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BLKMGK-try www.rallylights.com -search for relays using his search engine--they show relays and holders-pretty sure he sells all hella stuff-I bought my H4 conversion from him, and he has reasonable prices and good service
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You'd be surpised--I just shipped 2 bumpers off of my 280--total shipping came to 26 bux (including surcharge for oversize)-the key is to not go to those "mailbox" places--they add extra charges all over the place
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I kinda figured they were going to be a little low (I think you're right Pete-about 6" should do it)-unfortunately, all the pics I could find online were for the 240, and here I am with a 280, and a 2+2 to boot--figured on a little trial and error
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made em myself--the base is 4x4 angle, then a chunk of diamond plate bolted inside of it-the uprights are 3" C-channel, and I'm using galvanized steel pipe for the pivots-then the part that bolts to the car is more C-channel, and some 3x3 angle--the casters just happened to be laying around at work, along with all the steel and a welder; so I was able to make this one for fairly cheap
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Well, mostly anyway--I need to move the pivots up in relation to the body--the car is too high up in the air, and it'll hit the roof if I try to flip it over--but it goes side to side just fine, and I can roll the whole shebang around my garage--now where in the heck did I leave that DA sander???
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Dewzenol--just how much stuff is included in "accessories"? I'm just a few hours away, and if you really want to get rid of it that badly, I might be able to help you out
(sometimes having a 1 ton pickup can come in real handy)
Jim
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I don't know if it got posted on the site or if it was just sent to the mailing list; but you can find Carl at: beck@becksystems.com , unless he's changed it
Jim
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Hey Craig--the link off of your site is dead (Earthlink 404 error)
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Oil pressure gauges on the Z are kinda flaky and inaccurate-and slow to respond--if you have the wrong sending unit for the gauge, it won't read properly. If you have the time/talent, install a mechanical gage off of a tee fitting in the engine bay-lots more accurate
An "old school" rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM-if you're running much less than that, I'd be worried
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Well, I found the ones for the front, my .pdf copy of the manual is missing a few pages of the rear:
1st number is coupe, 2nd is 2+2
Number of turns: 9.5/8.5
Free length: 15.98"/15.71"
Spring constant (lb/sq in): 103.0/115.4
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well, crap--the pic didn't work (at least not for me)-don't know what I screwed up though.
Anyway-just go here to check the pic if you want: http://home.earthlink.net/~jimzdat/cars.html
Scroll to the bottom and you'll see it
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OK-for the carbs I added a pic (I hope)
I would also recommend trying to find the Haynes manual that covers Webers-it's not the greatest, but it does have a lot of good info.
To adjust the valves, I could try and explain it here, but you'd be a lot better off with the Haynes for the Z-it has the procedure in it-be prepared to spend a hour or two doing it the first time, along with a lot of cussing and banged knuckles
To properly tune a multi-carb setup-you need a synchronizer (common brand is a Uni-Syn) I found mine for about 35 bucks at a Volkswagen shop (bug owners like multi-carbs too) but you can also find em on ebay if you're patient
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Hiya Mike--hopefully I can help a little
If it starts overheating the easiest thing to do is change the thermostat -if it is stuck closed, you will overheat--and yes it was fine this morning, but I've seen crazier things happen. Easy way to check it is to pull the rad. cap (when cold) and start the engine-when it gets up to operating temp, you should see flow past the filler neck-if not, it's probably stuck
Webers and fuel leaks seem to go hand in hand-mine have been seeping like that for some time, and no problems (yet)
Scott of ZTherapy told me about www.piercemanifolds.com they are one of the few Weber distributors in the US-they do list rebuild kits for the DCOE's
I notice the breather on top of the rocker cover is open-BAD IDEA-go to your local K&N supplier and get a little breather filter-they run around 15-20 bucks. That fitting used to have a hose going to the air cleaner, but since you don't have one...
It may also be why you are getting oil running down the outside of the rocker cover (blow-by)
The turbo oiler thingy, I'm not too sure about, I would hazard a guess that the next time you change the oil, take it apart and reseal everything--might fix it
The carbs "blowing oil" is usually a sign of valves out of adjustment or sticking--double check all of them--mine also tended to do that if I had the idle mixture set too rich, which could be part of the problem too.
You say it has white smoke? As long as there is no blue in it, it probably isn't oil-just a misadjustment on the carbs
Hope this helps
Jim
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OK-Frank says he's done it-but his car is heading into the paint shop--anyone else out there that has welded up the side vents on their car? Mine is about ready to go up on the rotisserie, and I want to make sure it wont cause any problems if I make some of these mods--I also am going for the "smoothing" of the body (ie, no door handles, drip rails, chrome, etc) Is welding up those vents going to cause serious ventilation problems? Thanks
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Just my .02--the glasspack system that MSA sells (is it still called "twice pipes"?) is a VERY obnoxious system--I had it on my car-L28, E31, 3xwebers, 460 lift cam--and if you wanted to have a conversation in the car, you had to have a megaphone. About a year ago I had a local shop make up a 2.5" pipe from the collector back ($100) and then hung a 4" Supertrapp ($80) on the end; I get a little of the infamous 2000 RPM resonance, but nothing too bad, and you can actually talk to your passengers without screaming. IMHO, the glasspack system is garbage, only for use if you want that wonderful Honduh-with-playing-cards-in-the-spokes-pretending-to-be-a-Cessna sound
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Don't know if it's the same site you were thinking of--but I have always found this site to be pretty good: www.gas-turbines.com
I wouldn't mind getting one of those boats myself...
(Interests like these are the result of 10 years as a Gas Turbine Tech in Uncle Sam's canoe club, and my new occupation as a power plant operator-it's not my fault I'm insane
)Jim
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Just got a 73 240z
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
And if you need more help with measurements, just ask--I have a 351W with headers, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4BBL, no A/C, just power steering pump and Alt.--(plus it's in an 83 F350, so just getting to some of those measurements might be a little easier than on your pony, BLKMGK)
Jim