jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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That stuff just laughs at sandblasters--tried both aluminum oxide and ground glass--best bet is just use paint scrapers/utty knives/screwdrivers/explosives/etc...
I found that in many areas, once I got going large sections would come up easily--just had to work hard in some areas
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I kinda figured that even with my feeble welding skills it would be cheaper to make one (it adds up to ~$78 US) just was wondering if it would work worth a darn
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The 914 has rear engine like the bug.Sorry, Jens; but the 914 was considered a mid-engine car, not rear-engine like the bug--it's engine was in front of the transaxle, right behind the passenger compartment; while the bug's was hanging on for dear life at the rear of the transaxle.
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I know that a lot of people have used the soid diff mounts, living with the noise and all, and a few out there have custom made their own solid straps, but I was scrweing around online and came across this one:
Seems like it would work pretty well--it sells for $150 (Australian)-haven't figured out the exchange yet
Any opinions/ideas?web page
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If the headlight bucket is installed, you should hardly be able to see the hardware--there are a couple of indentations in the bucket so you can access the screws, in fact. Maybe somebody has somehow "modified" the headlight bucket to make it easier to get to?
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No, Pete--they're not different; the first gen all go in the same way I think--the only difference I know of is the "buckets"-'glass or steel
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I figure since I've now owned 4 2+2's I can chime in here
Yes, the main difference you will have to deal with is the length of driveshaft--other than that, there are no major drivetrain differences.
If they laugh at you, tell em to stick it in their (your choice of bodily orifice here)!
FWIW, I mainly like the 2+2 simply because at 6'8", it gives me a couple more inches headroom
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For mine (pics are at the website--click the link below) I used an engine hoist to pick up the entire shell (yes, it will work if you use the right straps and chains) then attached everything to the car, set up the end pieces, and was done
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Keith, my puter nuked and I lost your snail mail address--send it to me again, and I'll shoot you a SASE so I can post your plans for you
Jim
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Keep an eye out on ebay--I got mine there a month or so ago.
I'm going to be getting some pics of it pretty soon, so I can send them to John Washington--he is considering doing a mold if there is enough interest
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Well, the carbs and trans are sold now, but I've still got the motors (on ebay, but no bids yet)
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Yep--we got a little airport here (McCarran field or something like that)--mot sure of the layout though.
Since you're essentially local--know anyone that's looking for some L6 stuff?
I'm getting rid of some of my spare stuff (motors, trans, carbs, etc) and if there's anyone down there looking, it would save on shipping. Check the forsale forum--I posted the stuff last nite
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I'm close at least--Jackson's only an hour away
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The T fitting idea might work, as it will allow some of the pressure to bleed off and return to the tank.
The idea of "get a bigger damn hammer" adjustments to carbs always makes me cringe, but I can see where the idea comes from--he is thinking that the float may have stuck, keeping the needle/seat from closing; which is possible, or you could have a float that has "sunk"--some Webers have brass floats (in which you can hear the fuel sloshing if they leak), others have one made of some other substance I can;t think of the name of right now, and they can soak up fuel over time, and cause the same problem. Combine that with too high a fuel pressure, and you end up flooding the carb out.
(About the regulators--I may have been a little too opinionated in my other post--in a pinch, the cheapo ones will work, they just tend to have a higher failure rate, so if you can find one of those, go ahead and useit--just keep an eye on things, just in case)
Jim
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From my experience, (have run both the dual DGV setup and the triple DCOE setup) most Weber carbs are very unhappy with anything over ~4 psi fuel pressure--you definitely want a good quality reg in there to keep everything under control. Stay away from the 19.99 regs, they will usually crap out after a few months, then you're just spending more money on it--buy a good Holley or equivalent. If you can't find one locally, places like jegs or summit sell em.
Another thing you can try is "Grose jets"--they replace the needle and seat assembly, using 2 little balls to shut off fuel flow--I've got them in my SU's, and they work great. At one time, Ztherapy used to sell the Grose jets for Webers, not sure if they still do or not.
Good Luck,
Jim
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Thanks, guys--I was afraid of the durability of a paint--Lone, I think you may be right about a powdercoat--that stuff should last forever if done right. I picked up a set of old Mickey Thompson valve covers for my truck--just trying to think of the best way to refinish them.
Now to try and find a decent powdercoating shop in West BFE Tennessee
Thanks,
Jim
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Anybody know of a source for the "crinkle" finish that you see on valve covers and stuff like that? I've tried searching online, but all that comes up is wallpaper places
I'm not even sure if this is a paint product or some sort of powdercoating type process, so anybody who knows more about it than me please chime in
Thanks,
Jim
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There are a couple of places you can get replacement framerail/floorpan assemblies from, it all depends on how extensive the damage is. You may want to consider subframe connectors--check Pete Paraska's website for a good example of those.
Some sort of stand would probably be best to keep everything aligned while you cut out sections of the car--it all depends on what you want to do--you could fab up some sort of jig to hold everything in place, or you caould go all out and build a rotisserie that would allow for easier access to the undercarriage.
Search for "rotisserie" here in the forums, this has been brought up a couple times (a few by me) and there are a couple of posts with pics. Or you can check on my site, got a few more pics there
Jim
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Try www.waytekwire.com --they have a fairly good selection of wire, along with all the "weather-pak" connectors and stuff like that.
Plus, they'll even send you a free catalog
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Here's the diagram I used for doing my swap:
The only things I had to change is where the diagram says "To +12v through fuse from lo/hi beam"--you run just one large wire (with fuse) from battery (or starter, whichever you prefer.
Where the diagram says "Ground" (down at the bottom)--you actually want this to be +12v, when you trun on the light switch.
And where it says "From OE lo/hi circuits"--use the wires that go back to the dimmer switch (not sure of all the colors, since my wiring is no longer in the car)
HTH,
Jim
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Hey RXO, I used 30A relays with my lites (both 80/130 & 55/100) They should be able to handle the current load without a hitch. 40A relays are harder to find, which can be a bad thing if you have one burn out in the middle of nowhere--I know around here, I can get 30A relays anywhere they sell fog/driving lites (Autozone, Walmart, etc.)
Jim
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Where are these part numbers from? To me, they look like they're from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com), but I figured I'd ask just in case.
Thanks,
Jim
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So, do we get bonus points for using the word "reiterate" more than once in this thread? Or do we have to throw in a "conundrum" or two to get the bonus?
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Just a note on the H4 lights--I have a set of Hellas that were in my 76 before the teardown--you will find some sites selling extra bulbs in some high wattages--don't bother with it--I tried running the 80w lo/130w hi bulbs in mine, and they work great--awesome visibility, and you can fry the retinas of anyone who dares flash their lights at you--the problem is they have a very short lifespan (due to the heat level the filament experiences, the vibration of the car beats the heck out of em) I replaced my bulbs 3 times in 6 months, finally just went with the 55w lo/100w hi, they lasted another 6 months (then I took the car apart, so I don't know how much longer they may have lasted)
But I'll re-iterate what BLKMGK had to say--USE RELAYS--they will be the best improvement you can make to your lights. Aside from the search function hree, check out the wiring diagrams at www.rallylights.com he puts it pretty simple for you
Good Luck,
Jim
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