jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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I didn't have to do anything special to drop the L28 into the 260--the heads on most of the later motors are "dual-drilled"--they will accept both carbs or FI-I like the L28 simply because it's the larger motor, and is more towards the end of the R&D scale--they got the bugs worked out I guess you could say.
From all outward appearances, the L24, 26 & 28 look alike--the only way to be sure is to check the number stamping on the block--my 260 had an L28 in it when I got it--I just happened to have a spare I could rebuild while still driving the car-then I just swapped the motors one nite at work.
It is very possible to do a "sleeper"--just keep in mind that some mods (exhaust especially) can give it away. My 280Z looked like just your everyday beater, but with 2.5" exhaust, header, triple webers and a tall cam, it wasn't exactly fooling anyone
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>My questions are, does it use the same motor mounts of the stock 240z engine?
Yep--all the L motors used the same mounts (at least the first generation Zs-not sure about the ZXs)
>Do you need any other special parts for the efi engine to make it run?
You will need all the induction stuff (AFM, Hoses, Filter, etc) and also the wiring harness and computer (drivers side kick panel)--there are also a bunch of relays scattered throughout the car you will need. You will also need the high pressure fuel pump that FI cars used, and possibly the fuel tank (not sure, but they might be different)
>how do you wire it up?
The EFI harness is easy--it has two large wires that connect to the battery (along with fusible links) and the rest of the harness connects to the engine (mostly--see reference above to scattered relays)
>Is it worth doing?
Depends--how enthused are you by retro-fitting wiring into a car that never had it before? Why exactly do you want to do it? The stock motor can be tweaked fairly easily, while the FI system has it's limitations (not that easy to hop up without spending $$$)
>Or if I use the stock engine, what mods can I do to the engine without totally distroying the engine, besides boring the cylinder,new heads, and carbs?
There is actually quite a bit you can do--it just depends on how much you want to spend (isn't that true of all projects though?) You can bore it out, but personally, I'd just look for a L28 motor and start there--no need to bore it then-you can add an earlier head if you want, put a different cam in, etc. I am running a L28 in my 260, along with early SU carbs (had them rebushed by ZTherapy)--I just got done rebuilding teh engine, and it's running great. I'm sure there are other mods out there, but I don't know of all of them.
Good luck on your project,
Jim
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For those that are interested in different designs, check out my homepage (link below)--the one you see there was our basic "prototype"--the one that Craig got is even beefier, and sits on slightly smaller casters for greater stability.
The jacks are a good idea, but if you have the right pivot height to begin with, you shouldn't need em--I think a lot of the rotisseries out there with adjustable height are "universal"--you adapt to fit any vehicle. The one's I've done are specifically for a Z (later model to be exact)--so I wasn't too worried about adjustable height.
Just more input for the conversation,
Jim
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Been there, tried that--The tank off of a 75-76 will fit in a 260, not sure about a 240--a 77-78 tank won't fit--different filler neck size, and everything (hose connections, sending unit) is in a different place
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Aspen--a lot of the regs will change depending on where in WA you live even (BTW, Davy--check subject line
)I know there are certain areas around Seattle that are exempt, but if you go across the street, it changes. Check with one of the state inspection stations (should be in phone book, or closest licensing office should know)--I know when I registered my 74 up there, I had to get it inspected, and the guy was nice enough to compliment me on the carb conversion I had done--since I was exempt, it didn't matter
HTH,
Jim--(originally from WA)
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Hey Mike-did you get those emblems I shipped out to ya? Just want to make sure that USPS didn't manage to lose the darn things
Jim
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Turn your steering wheel all the way to lock, then stick your head as far into the fenderweel as you can--there should be 4 phillips head screws in there--pull those, and the whole "bucket" comes out, then you can remove the trim ring and pull the bulb.
**Helpful hint--take one of the 4 screws to a decent hardware store and get some metric hex-head bolts to put in there--makes next time alot easier
Jim
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Jamie--I haven't done this (yet), but I am planning on doing it in the future; I have actually been looking at GM steering columns from camaros, firebirds, even S-10's with floor shift. The advantage to a GM column is that the painless kit is available with the plugs to connect to it--makes wiring the ignition and turnsignal assy a little easier. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is what the heck to do for a headlite switch--not too many cars have it on the column.
Please do keep us posted, regardless--my project isn't anywhere near completion, but always dredging for ideas.
Jim
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I can't see em either, Scottie (at least with Netscape)--if I right-click and choose "show image" it tells me I don't have permission to view it
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quotewhen you run a Carfax report on a VINYou'd be OK on this one, as Carfax only recognizes the "standardized" VIN format that came out in the early 80's (unless they've changed something lately)quote:
If you pulled theVIN tags off a junked car, I think it might be possible that someone would eventually notice that a car with a Junk Title is all of a sudden, pounding the pavement again.
This, however, is a very valid point--taking the VIN from a car that has had the title marked as "salvaged", like some states do, would cause a nightmare when it came time to register it. OTOH, if the cars in question both happened to belong to you, it might be possible to actually get away with it
Just my $.05 (inflation)
Jim
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Well, if Dan can't find your original, maybe we can work with this writeup, adding specifics for earlier Z cars: http://catalog.com/susq/other/headlamp.htm
This is the shop I bought my H4 conversion kit from, and he includes the instructions with every kit he sells
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By "shunts" do you mean the fusible links? If so, is the one that's not showing power dead on both ends? that is about the only thing between the battery and headlite switch that can go out-sometimes they don't totally melt thru when they go, the insulation can still look OK.
BTW, no, there is not a relay for the headlites--but a good fix is to put one in; if you like, I'm sure one of us can probably scrounge up a drawing to help you get em wired in (I figure Pete the relay king has one, but he's probably got his hands full about now)
Keep us posted,
Jim
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Unless you've made mods to the enigine (cam, valves, etc) there is no advantage to the SM needles-they are more for modded motors--on a stock L28, the original needles will work just fine, the hardest part is actually getting the things adjusted right in the first place. I am currently running an L28 in my 260 2+2, with 3-screw SU's (bodies have been redone by ZTherapy-new shafts with roller bearings-no more vacuum leaks at the shaft!)and am maintaining 20MPG, and it pulls nice and strong all day without a hitch.
As far as the intake is concerned, I think it was the combo of early carbs and 260 mainfold that gave you a power gain, but I don't recall how significant the gain was.
(As a disclaimer, most of my knowledge of SU carbs is compliments of Scott Bruning-there may be more info I have missed, or misquoted, on his site-www.ztherapy.com
Drop him an email, or give him a call-he'll have an answer for you. As an added note, his new SU videotape is an excellent tool for anyone trying to work on SUs)
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Just had to rub it in, huh Scottie?
Here I sit with a 97 Grand Prix with the normally aspirated 3800, and you have to go and burst my bubble telling me I can't just bolt all the pieces on!
I will say one thing--while the SC version is nice and beefy--the NA is no slouch either--my GP sees 5500 RPM every so often, and it just keeps going without a hitch-I love that thing!
Sometimes that old pushrod technology just keeps shining thru dont it?
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Scotty--email me whatever pics you need up, and I can post them on my site--I've still got about 8MB of space I can play with
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Jamie-have you replaced the shifter bushings?
The original design had some cheesy plastic bushings to tighten everything up, and over time they tend to "disappear"--you can still get new ones from the dealer (I think) or possibly MSA--probably not too pricey
Or, if you're feeling energetic, you could probably make your own using some teflon washers and a bronze bushing from Home Depot
it may not seem like much, but that 1/16" of slop at the pivot point is going to be greatly exaggerated at the top of the shifter
Jim
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I don't know if it'll help or not, but the crossmember for my car (a 76 280 2+2, but the 2 seater should be the same) is currently sitting on the garage floor next to the car, so if you need any measurements let me know, and I'll try and get em for you
Jim
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AHA! I even managed to find it again:
As of now, it's at 30 bucks--but the auction has 5 more days
As far as your other problems--I don't know about the tach, but you're right about the fuel gage-sender, wires, gage.
On a 76, there will be 3 wires on the sending unit, one is ground, one is for the low fuel sensor, the third is the actual gage signal (the signal wire is attached to the sender at the highest point) get an ohmmeter, and check between the ground and signal terminals-the range of the sender is ~10-80 Ohms, if you can pull the sender and cycle it, you'll know if it's working right. To check the gage, simply use a jumper wire between the signal wire and the ground coming off the harness, then turn the key on for a few seconds-the gage should peg out on the full mark (I think)
HTH,
Jim
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Check ebay--just last nite, I noticed a guy selling off his V8Z project pieces, and the speedo cable was up there--cant remember what the current price was tho
Jim
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Zach, I don't know exactly where in CA you're at, but I bought my Pertronix "Ignitor" setup from Dave Turner Motorsports down in San Diego--800.854.6640 www.daveturner.com If I remember right, I paid around 80 bucks for it, but that was also a few years back, so it may have gone up...
Jim
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Davy, here's some pics of a guy who stuffed a Optima in a Moroso box in the back of his 'stang--don't know the exact price of the box, but if you go to www.moroso.com and search for "battery box" it'll give you a little more info about it
Jim
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Davy--I was looking thru a copy of "Truckin" magazine (it was at work and I was bored) and while most of the magazine was full of worthless trucks sitting 1/4" off the ground, I did notice a battery box specifically for the optima-if you can wait a couple days till I go back to work, I'll try and get the name of the company for you
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As I'm sure other people can tell you-AZ Z may have a nice looking setup, but dealing with the guy is a whole other story--you would be a lot better off if you just deal with Mike (SCCA) at www.fonebooth.com for suspension stuff
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I can at least get you overall dimensions if needed-my engine may not sit as low in a Z due to the fact it has a 6 qt oilpan (truck application)--but if you needed, say-width, with headers. or bottom pan to top of carb, etc-I could probably get that
Jim
Rotisserie Questions
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Actually, Dewzenol-that is the exhaust--eventually moved it out of the garage though--I have a 26' trailer sitting beside the house that is slowly filling up with Z components--makes it easy to hide all that stuff