jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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You'll never see that happen--SU carbs have no accellerator pump--you can pump the throttle all day long, and never flood it. It also does no good to pump the pedal when trying to start it--just pull the choke back and crank it--if anything, put a little pressure on the pedal and hold it, that's about it
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Only problem with that, Z-tard, is that it's an Allison 501-K17--a single speed gas turbine--you're gonna need one heck of a reduction gear since it runs at 13,821 RPM
BTW, which ship you on? I was on the Callaghan (DDG-994) and the Acadia (AD-42) during my time down there--plus a few years at SIMA
If you want to see a turbine that might be doable, check out the "squirt" project at www.gas-turbines.com
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You're on the right track--when you open the throttle with the engine not running, the butterflies will open, and thats it--when it's running, the vacuum will cause the pistons to rise, pulling the needle up out of the nozzle to allow fuel flow (to quote Scott Bruning: "a SU carb is nothing but a controlled fuel leak")
The only time you should get any movement from the nozzles is when you pull the choke cable--it'll move the nozzle down to richen the mixture a bit--the choke linkage should also bump the butterflies open a little
If you havent already-I would seriously consider getting the SU videotape from www.ztherapy.com--I ordered it when I had my carbs redone, and it was the best 15 bucks I ever spent for a tuning tool
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If you've got the original "flat top" carbs, then yes, when you pull the choke lever, the butterfly should close.
As far as the pic for the cable, sorry--I put earlier carbs on mine. If you're not worried about originality, I would check ebay for a set of 70-72 carbs--they will fix 99.99% of the problems you are having, and you can usually find a set for under $200
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Actually, we (as a group) would need more info to help you with lash pads--there's a lot of variables that go into proper selection (cam specs, etc)-IIRC, there are a bajillion different options for those things.
As far as the SU tuning goes, step 1 is get yourself a UniSyn carb synchronizer (either MSA or your local VW shop-about $30) if you don't already have one. Step 2 is find someone local that knows them and can pass on some hands on training; or go to www.ztherapy.com and order the 4 hour "Just SU" videotape--Scott did a hell of job putting together everything you need to get your car running right
Probably a lot more info we could pass on, just a few pionts I can think of for right now
Jim
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Might want to check the websites for the Dept of Transportation in each state you'll be going thru--I did that when I moved cross country, just to see what road conditions were like--If you got AAA, they can crank out a "triptik" in a short time that highlights bad areas too.
Another thing to keep in mind is bypassing major cities--if you take the 40, for instance, you can save much heartache and traffic by taking the 440 around nashville instead of plowing straight thru--adds a few miles, but much easier in the long run.
Biggest problem I've run into going northern routes is inevitably you get stuck in an area where they require chains--not bad if you're prepared-but have you ever tried to find chains for a U-Haul truck in the middle of BFE? Good luck
FWIW, I live right on the I-40 here in TN, and it's nice and clear--no storms lately or expected.
Good luck on your trip--hope it goes smoothly for you
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There is only one inlet per carb, located on the side of the fuel bowl (held on with a "Banjo" fitting)
The nipple that sticks straight up out of the top of the bowl is the vent, and should be connected to the back of the air cleaner--if you plug that fitting, the car will not run due to the fact that SU's require some way of getting air into the fuel bowl so that fuel can flow out the bottom and into the nozzle assembly
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Click on the product listing, then on "LED" at the top of the screen--they have a bunch of LED configurations--maybe it can be adapted to what you want?
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If I remember right (no guarantees there), if you pull the wheel, there is a small hole in the face of the drum--use a screwdriver to turn the starwheel (just like most other brakes)--the only real difference with a Z is that you cant do it thru the backing plate
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Illumina==a model of strut cartridge manufactured by the Tokico(sp?) corporation-kinda pricey, but has adjustable valving so you can adjust your ride quality.
Boge==Another manufacturer of struts/shocks; but I couldn't tell you much about quality or what they have to offer
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Thanks for catching that--maybe I should quit posting webpages at 2 in the morning
Should be fixed now
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How about some of these lights?
Not sure if they can ship to the states, but might be worth a shot
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DP--I've got both a hi-speed hookup and a couple of spare websites--email me your pics, and I can get em posted for you.
Use this address (not the one in my profile):
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Absolutely! If that motor has a aluminum head, and uses a multi-layer-steel (MLS) head gasket, it requires a very finely machined surface on the head to ensure proper sealing. If it has an iron head (doubtful) you still need to get it surfaced.
Resurfacing of the head gives you the "insurance" that you now KNOW that you have a good sealing surface, and will give you a hassle-free installation (or as hassle-free as a sideways little 4 banger can get)
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Well, I'm 6'8", and I can fit into a 2 seater Z, but my head rubs the headliner a little--all 4 of my Zs have been 2+2 models, so there is a little more headroom--legroom is pretty much the same, I prefer the extra clearance that can be obtained by using a aftermarket steering wheel, but it ain't too bad with the stocker either.
Jim
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Recently helped a buddy install a Vortech kit on a 97 Chevy 3/4T truck w/vortec 350--The kit was well put together, but the instructions were a little confusing at times (it would say to use the supplied flanged pulley, but it was non-flanged) We did it during the week, so we were able to call their tech line and get answers fairly quickly. Overall, I think it was worth it, but I personally would drop the extra $$ for the "quiet" one--not sure what they change, but it's supposed to cut down the squeal a fair amount
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Another good source for the Uni-Syn device is your local VW shop--multi-Weber carb setups are popular for bug setups, and they sell all the tuning stuff for them.
Just a thought so you don't have to wait on mail order
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Wagz--I don't know about the engine stand you've got, but mine is only a couple feet wide, and the rear wheels don't swivel--you get one on each end and the thing won't turn
If you look at my home-made rotisserie, I made "bases" that are 4 feet wide, then used swivel casters under them, so I can go any direction I want. From what I've seen, you probably wouldn't want to follow my design to the letter, because the damn thnigs are heavy--I was just over-engineering things in an effort to be safe (and paranoid)
Good Luck,
Jim
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Hi Rick! Welcome to the forums.
I'm still in the "gathering parts and tear apart my car stage" so I can't exactly answer the question; but was just wondering where in TN you are? Can't hurt to know where to get help/info/someone to help with stuff
Jim
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Also try Webers I was able to order parts for my DCOEs from them--they have a pretty good parts section, with exploded view diagrams and everything.
Also, make sure when you're searching that you only put one "b" in the name, otherwise you'll never find what you're looking for
Jim
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I'm not sure if the 2+2 one allows the backseat or not--I'm intending to eliminate the rear seat anyway, so it wasn't an issue for me
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I just got my cage from Jeg's (they actually list one for the 2+2. Mine showed up with all the pieces, but their layout/instruction sheet is kinda lacking; namely since it wasn't there.
I called and they faxed me a sheet that will supposedly help, but all it has is a small pic of the cage, and it says this diameter tubing is for primary stuff, this diameter is for everything else--I coulda saved myself 5 minutes out of my life by not bothering to call.
We're gonna try and get installed within the next month or so, when it's done, I'll put up pics and opinions.
Anyone ever build up a 305?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
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Old-n-broke--just the name is enough to bring back nightmares
worked on her too many times when I was there. Can't blame you for looking forward to shore duty 
I was a GSM myself, so I know how you feel about sea duty.
Good luck on the 327--I miss having all the nice DIY boneyards out there--moved out here and they've never heard of that concept. I am currently in the "save up the bucks to buy an LTI/T56 combo" phase, so I've been spending a lot of time doing body work myself.
Good luck,
Jim