deMideon

I have the Ron Tyler mount, I also removed the center section of the crossmember so I have additional space for the exhaust to go through.

Hmm... I used the JTR, no modifications beyond removing the hood latch. The engine drops right in, no adjusting no slots nessesary. Oil pan is a milodien with stock dimensions, no problem with clearence and it comes with baffles etc. It works great for me and I am happy with the shorty headers.

I went to a truck stop.. they all have certified scales and if they are not busy they will let you do whatever you want (as long as you pay for it!lol).. My 280Z with a SBC 400 and T-56, rediculously huge frame stiffeners, and full tank of gas weighs.. without me 2860lbs Front - 1340 Rear - 1520

I built one off of the drawings as well and it fit my 78 280Z perfectly... my only problem was that I didn't read the whole thing Pete wrote and tore up the rubber mount that I used Doh! I now have the energy suspension poly mount and no problem at all!

I have a T-56 and took apart the reverse lockout and put in a slightly softer spring. Now I can push through the lock into reverse!

It varies according to how the manufacture makes the tire. Some will some won't work. Go take a look at Tirerack.com (one of the cheaper places to get tires too!), take a look at the specs on the tires. It will tell you the recommended rim width for the tire.

I agree with JNJ... I got a used MSD billet dist and controller off e-bay. Works great and much cheaper!

From my own personal experience I have to say that it makes a huge difference when you stiffen the chassis. I had a 73 240 and was starting to get cracks in the rear pilers. When I got the 280 I did drive it for a little while, then I added my "frame rails" (lol check out my photo album I went a bit extreme!). I did it because I knew I would be going with a lot of hp. I can't tell you how much of a difference it made. The chassis feels very solid now. a night and day difference!

I have the stock hood vent opened up on my 280, I do believe they are allowing hot air to exit as it is being sucked into my interior. When I use the vents inside after driving for a little while all I get is hot air!

I have a 280 with the vents in the hood and I took the metal off so they are completely open. I really believe they are allowing at least some air out since my vents inside the car are almost unusable as all I get is really hot air blowing into the car!

I've been having problems keeping mine cool as well.. closed off everything up front so all of the air goes through the radiator, wrapped the headers (boy that made a big difference in compartment heat!), Flex a lite 3300 cfm fan, and a northern alu7minum race radiator. Driving is fine, temp stays steady, but when I park for a few minutes and come back out, the temp is higher, and then as I go from store to store, it just keeps climbing. So it seems to me that the standard style radiator can't keep up. I just got this: http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=6&ClassID=70&SubclassID=1580&ProductID=2515 Great price! and a double pass 3" radiator, so I will test it the next few days and see what happens!

Afew important things to consider when trying to figure out if you will be able to run on pump gas or not is quench and dynamic compression. Do a search for quench and take a look at this thread as well... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111782

Also.. oil and silly cone do not mix!!! I have found that cleaning both surfaces with some rubbing alcohol first makes a huge difference in getting the silly cone to actually adhere to the surfaces

Huh the one place I hadn't looked! Thanks!!

I am in the process of trying to hook up an outside fuel filler for my fuel cell as well... what are you using for the hose to go from the new filler to your fuel cell?

Well I guess it was good that I ground a few lobes off my cam... I have been having a problem with a water leak in this engine and I could not figure out where the water was going. Number 7 piston wall has a bunch of pin holes in it (only 40 over too!), guess I am going to have to sleeve it!

Heh.. I just called Crane... figured they would know, the lobe separation is 112 and the intake lobe centerline is 109. I just couldn't read the cam info correctly! That gives me a DCR of 8.5.. so I think I will be ok, 0 decked and a .038 head gasket should have me able to use 93 octane gas right?

I am challenged by the cam timing part... Dr hunt I do have DD2000 put everything in and it gives me a lobe center of 112(doesn't say if it is intake or not!), but doesn't give me LSA either. I tried the calculators from grumpy.. the KB gives me 8.8.. but they use ABDC@.050 +15 for a solid lifter shouldn't it be more like 20?

No problem... any idea how I can get the LSA and intake lobe centerline? I don't see that info on the cam card...

Dr Hunt... it's under forged... it is a flat top with a 4.8cc head volume so my static comp with my head should be about 11.6:1 Thank you for the CR link!!

Do you know where I can find the formulas for dynamic compression?

I screwed my cam up (never adjust the valves on cold medicine! lol), so I am rebuilding my engine and I want to make absolutley sure I have the quench setup properly and everything will still run ok. Here is what I have: SBC 377 - 0 deck - 6 inch rods KB762 pistons Canfield heads - 59.2 cc Crane cam 114691 Mr Gasket Ultra seal head gasket .038 compressed thickness. I am thinking of advancing the cam 2 degrees to move the power band down from min 3800 rpm. But I do want to make sure I am still bleeding off enough compression to allow 93 octane gas to work. What do you guys think?

I have cast valve covers as well and both sides are vented. I have no pressure problems at all. The only issue I have is oil blowing out my breathers! Especially on hard cornering. I am working on fixing that though.

I am running a vic junior and a speed demon carb with a low profile air cleaner, I have about 1/2" clearence.. I tried a 1/2" spacer and it was too much, so be careful you are getting really close... maybe if you can find an extremely low profile air cleaner it will work!

When I was putting my 280 together I did exactly that, almost all of the bolts I used are new. My local True-Value is the best place I have found for bolts. The metric high strength ones are kinda expensive, but you only need them in a few places so it's not bad. The only things I used Nissan bolts in was the driveline, especially the driveshaft and half shafts!!