Indri

As the title states, I need the 27 spline 280z stub axles for the rear. Shipped to 47720. Thanks!

The problem with the dings is that they will use a lot of body filler. However, if you're on a budget, that may be the way to go. What is your ultimate goal with the car? I'd ask the shop what the price difference would be if you sourced new panels. Again, the problem with new panels is it depends on how much work they need to line up properly. There's no way of knowing until you get the panels mocked up to the car. So you could buy panels that need a lot of work and thus surpassing the cost of filling in the dings, or you could get panels that need little work and would save money in the long run. Honestly, I believe the cheapest route would be to fill the dings....actually I could almost guarantee the cheapest route would be to fill the dings. No HUGE drawbacks from doing that really but I know a lot of people tend to "scoff" at body filler. Like gorillaFart said too, you may be able to find doors and a hood for cheap and then use filler on the rest. That actually may be the cheapest option - depending on how cheap and in what condition the doors and hood are (how much work they would need). When it comes to cost, in the end, it's all about how many man hours the shop has to put in. Parts and materials are cheap, labor is expensive.

Don't worry, the floor pans are going to be cut out and good ol' fashioned home-made ones will be put in. The point of this work was to just get the subframe connectors in. We cut/grinded/tore/ripped our way through the shotty floor pans the previous owner had installed. I also plan on tying the subframe connectors to the rocker panels. Unfortunately I am only in town for brief periods of time (this was done within one week - working after hours).

My brother and I finished the sub-frame connectors. He's the experienced welder/fabricator, but I managed to help cut, fabricate, and grind - or just got in the way depending on who you ask The front is spot and seam welded with a piece of 1/8" steel bent to sleeve over the entire subframe. It looks like there is a gap in the pic, but the pinch weld was grinded off underneath the sleeve so sleeve fit flush and could be spot welded to everything. The actual subframe connector runs up into the front subframe a good six to eight inches. Everything is tied to the 1/8" sleeve by spot/seam welding. The rear is sleeved (at the angle), spot, and seam welded. Pics! (those droplets are water, we just rinsed the car off before putting it back in storage) Next up is the roll cage and r200/z31 CV conversion.

I have on too but it would have to be shipped from indiana.

Jmortensen, I haven't been around long but it appears you've saved many-a-projects. You can add one more notch in that belt. Thanks!

I'm trying to find the adapters I need for a 300zx CV halfshaft install into my 73. (I'm doing a CLSD R200 & CVs from a 300zx swap into my 73) I know Ross makes them at MM - I just want some different options.

^same here also, are those diamond racing rims? Did you happen to weigh those before you mounted them? I'm looking into a set.

WANT.

Thanks boyracer! I must admit, I was being lazy by asking. :shame: I emailed the guy.

Gothalosism, I'd be interested in hearing about that kit. Does he have a website?

I think you should pass on this one. What's the guy's number? In all seriousness, good find. I've been activley looking for one of these for about a month now. Sigh... What are putting it in? You should see if he has the CV axels too.

I'm in search of the same setup!

Wow, you guys are doing it right! Keep up the good work! Do you have a build thread for this car?

Mag58 - I really appreciate the offer. Unfortunatley, I'm overseas and won't be back in the states until about March next year. When I get back I'll have an entire body/mechanic/restoration shop available for use. I'm just piling up the "welcome home" goodies for now. Are there any Z clubs in Indiana? We'll definitley have to keep in touch! BOOSTDZ - I thought that using the stock 280z shafts led to steering issues. This car will see a lot of track time. I just didn't want to risk it. I'll do some more research on this subject. I'm not sure why, it just seems too simple. Nothing is ever that simple

I know everyone here is tired of hearing about R200 swaps. So for that, I apologize. I just need reassurance before I commit to buying parts. I've done my research (thank you search function) but just want to be sure I'm not wasting my time/money on heading in the wrong direction. Stats: 73 240z, SBC conversion Goal: CLSD r200 (if I’m lucky enough to find an 88 SS, then a VLSD) Parts List: From a 87-89 300ZX Turbo: Differential CV shafts (to correct for possible steering issues) From a 75-78 280Z: Mustache bar Differential cover Yoke (also known as a companion flange) Adapters from Modern Motorsports: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=56 Is it really that simple? If I can’t find an 87-89 Turbo, what other cars came with a FOUR pinion R200 either open or LSD. I’d rather pick up everything in one shot, but if I have to settle with an open R200, then I’d rather it be four pinion. Where open four pinion R200s even used? If not, how much tourqe can a 2 pinion withstand? Just so you guys know, I hate posting this subject since it has been beaten to death, but I can't move on without having a piece of mind.

...oops, didn't mean to reply to this.

So you're keeping the project? Good for you! Is this your first paint job or project car? I've heard that you should NEVER get ride of your first project - you'll always regret it. This car as soooo much potential. I love that color.

Oh my. Is the whole backend of the car buckled down? It seems to be scrap. Sorry buddy. Good parts car though.

I was always curious what a 20b setup in a 240 would look like. The thing just looks like it belongs in there, haha. Love it! I used to be a rotary guy. Had an 85 GSL and a 93 CYM. Sold the 85 and the CYM was in a flash flood. Man I loved that car.

Well, you said that only one structural piece was bent. I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but that could just be the beginning. If it's bolted/welded to something - which it has to be - then it probably pulled whatever it's attached to out of alignment, and that pulled on something else, and so on and so forth. Also, the rear quarters are tough to work with sense you can't "just replace them". If the metal is too badly creased, you'll probably need to cut out the metal and patch it back up with some fresh sheet metal - worked to match the body lines of course. A lot of man-hours for this. What was the total impact speed of the collision? I hate to be a downer, but just fixing the rear quarters alone will be a couple thousand, I would imagine, for good work. Not to mention whatever is messed up under the car. The "surface of the moon" comment leads me to believe that it was a home bondo job (a lot of it too) and therefore the metal underneath is probably still mangled.

So my brother got the car up on a lift and dug a little deeper. It's in a little worse shape than we originally thought. Still really good for the price. But the floor pans are going to get re-fabricated. Not that it absolutley needs it - but it'll allow us to fab it the way we want it. (When I say "we" I should probably say "he" ) He's talking about doing some kind of bracing - tie the tourqe boxes together to strengthen the car....or something like that. Again, he's the expert. This is a project...and a learning experience for me! Anyways, here's the rough direction we're headed: New jet hotted dual 2.5" exhaust (magnaflow super 40) New stage two 700R4 transmission from monster transmission Suspension - Coilovers, sway bars, strut tower bracing Brake conversion - maybe the 300zx? (not sure which way I'm going to go on this yet) LSD rear end conversion (haven't researched this yet) new rims/tires - shooting for 17x9.5 all around Half roll cage Aluminum top end (the PO had iron heads on it) Upgraded distributor (again PO has some junk on there) Weight reduction - seats, fiberglass hood, shaved bumper, (the aluminum top end should help with this as well) and I'm contemplating a fiberglass hatch So, how do I identify what type of conversion kit the PO used? MSA or SCARAB? The engine sits to far foward for the JTR kit. It also has full length headers - although they come down a little low - which might be a problem with the coilovers. Once the work gets started, I'll start a build thread.

Depends how mangled the body is. These things are unibody which means everything is tied together via the shell. It sounds like it was a pretty hard hit. My guess is the car is totaled.

(shortened the quote so the thread page isn't a million scrolls) If the front and rear are discs and they work on a 240, I may be interested. I haven't researched the brake upgrades yet.

I was thinking centerlines as well, but there are only 10 holes in the rims and the only centerlines I could find that are similar had more holes in them. The wheels are on a 240 I just bought. The guy I bought it from had no knowledge of what had been done to the car. Apparently there was a hub conversion done at some point. I'm not sure how to tell what the hubs came from though. I'm really just concerned with how much those rims are worth. From the looks of them, I'd say not much, but who knows. Anyone wanna buy them?