thehelix112

Thanks for that GHtokyo. I'll send an email off to courtesy nissan and see what they have to say about their ``nismo'' pumps. Dave

Ta. Will see what we can see. Dave

Ah, interesting, do you have a PN on that auto version by any chance? Dave

Guys, My L28ET just ate all the bottom end bearings due to a shoddy oil pump and some synthetic redline oil. I am running a thermostat controlled oil cooler, but needless to say I would like some more flow (volume). What are my options? I have seen that courtesy nissan sell a `nismo' competition pump, and a `nismo' high volume pump. Does anyone have any experience with these pumps? Are they just rebadged L28ET pumps? I've also seen that mellings sell a L28ET pump. Which of these pumps can people recommend for more flow, and use with thinner synthetic oil. I understand that old L pumps were never manufacturer with clearances suitable for thin oil. The local guru in Melbourne recommends 40-70W oil for race L engines. Thanks, Dave. PS. I did search.

Great thread guys, I am also wondering what a steering damper is? I am also wondering bjhines, why do the side vertical things on the blue car's lip have a gap between the rest of the dam? Wouldn't this be letting air through and onto the wheel? I also don't really understand the function of this lip at all? Dave

Not in any aus car to the best of my knowledge. US Maximas IIRC. Someone else will have details. Dave

Auto's can be advantageous in a turbo car for launches. If he knows how to stall it up so hes leaving the line with full boost it could be more of a struggle than you think. Did you have a look under the hood? Dave

The large drain hole at the back of the head perhaps? Dave

zguy36, My hose 90 degree hose fitting unscrews. Can see the speedflow (-AN) fittings on there. Dave

I fought with this a while back as well. Noone could tell me what thread it was, and I went to over 6 plumbing stores. In the end I just brought an appropriate tap (1/2 BSPT rings a bell but I couldn't be sure) and tapped it out to a more standard thread. Dave

If you install and control and additional injector you are relying on the manifolding for correct fuel distribution and to no puddle the fuel. Upgraded injectors is the proper way to do it. Dave

I get up to 15psi in 1st, with wheelspin as the turbo comes on in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. 3.54:1 diff, GT35R. Dave

Buy a wideband, make some detonation detectors, and find a straight, long, uphill bit of road. Oh and be careful. Might sound like a pain in the arse, but what option do you have? Dave

Nathaust, From what i have heard, yes, there is benefit to having a larger diameter dump pipe than turbine outlet. As counterintuitive as this sounds I believe it is something to do with the vortex flow coming off the turbine wheel dropping over the lip (a sharp step up to a larger dia is what I have heard working, as opposed to a flare). I'm not a CFD expert by any means and I don't pretend to understand this fully. 3D flow problems make my head hurt. Just thought I'd mention it. Dave

Maybe you should do something towards tuning it before you look at anything else? Dave

Wastegate leaking? Dave

N42 is an open chamber head yes? So you can basically take that off the head gasket width. Ie, enter -2 in the gasket field. Might work, can't remember how I wrote it. Dave

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Dave

^^^^^^^^ Thats good advice. Dave

11cc's worth according to the above mentioned calculator. He is a head guy, he should be capable to CCing the head from 53.6 stock down to 42.6. Dave

1. Generalisations in general (sic) are stupid, but I like being called an Aussie so I guess I'll overlook a POME's stupidity. J/K Yank, POME, Aussie, Kiwi, Jap, whatever, no skin off my nose but I don't speak for everyone. As a new member I would think you'd be more tentative and a little more sensitive to potentially offending people. 2. Things will only be assumed if you neglect to mention them. A few words to the effect of: `I searched but couldn't find what I wanted', would've avoided this problem. 3. Welcome. Dave

A 300hp L28 will have very minimal turbo lag. You can happily get 300hp from a stock SR20 with a T28 turbocharger. This combination makes positive pressure at around 1800rpm with full boost around 2200 or so. That same turbocharger on a L28 with 800cc more displacement I would guess would make positive pressure at or before 1500rpm and be up and thumping by 2000rpm. If that doesn't sound good enough, maybe you do need a V8. Dave

If you are increasing the size of the compressor wheel you push the boost threshold UPWARDS in the rev range as you are increasing the compressor's moment of inertia. Dave

datman, Don't make stupid comments about `yanks'. Instead, try to appreciate that people (not me personally) have put a lot of effort into answering these questions thoroughly and its quite a slap in the face to do that, then to have people not even bother to look for it. I'm sure you'll agree that its harder to work things out and write them up in an understandable way than it is to click the search button. You don't need flares, or coil overs for x8 rims. You will need the guards lipped though. Dave

Bradman, 7.4:1 is with P90 and dished pistons, ala stock L28ET. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Knock yourself out. Dave