thehelix112

I don't know much(anything) about the SR16VE, does that mean you'll need to fit the SR20 crank? I've got the S15 6-speed waiting (for a long time) to go in my 510. Should be fun. Dave

My redline is set to a whopping 6500 and I have a standard engine with the exception of ARP studs and a tiny upgraded cam. I personally dont' think you NEED more revs, but if you're there anyway I'd be going a 215-220 0.05" dur cam with valve springs to suit ( + the psi boost you plan on running ), and a balance would be nice. Everything would be nice, but is not totally necessary I suppose. You could just wack it together as is and I'm sure you'd enjoy it. Dave

I can't watch streetfire.net videos, do you have a direct link? The only reason I could think of as to why a BOV would be forced open is if its positioned close to the turbocharger, and there is a large pressure drop between there and the inlet manifold. A BOV is a spring yes, but its not ONLY the spring that is holding it shut. The feed line to the top of the spring is connected to the inlet manifold, hence if the BOV is just before the T/B there is very little pressure difference between the top and bottom of the spring, not enough to open it. Then when the T/B slams shut the intake manifold goes to vacuum which helps open the BOV. Thats my understanding of the theory anyway, could be totally different in practise. Dave

I voted L28ET. It was sourced as a supercharged hack engine because my L24 died. If I had more money I'd go an RB26, but now I'm addicted to the L. Plus, pushing **** uphill can be fun. Dave

Nice one. In car vids rock. My L28 sounds more like the other car.. hehe.. you can really hear the wastegate going nuts can't you. Love it. Dave

The getrag 6-speed is found several cars: http://www.getrag.com/176/176 I believe that the R34 GTR also has a getrag, and the MK IV supra? Dave

Oh I forgot to mention, PM 240Z_Turbo, or visit speedshopthagard.com for the local hybridz garrett dealer. Dave

Your choices are fairly widely ranging with the garrett BB turbochargers GT3582R, GT4088R, GT4294R, GT4202R. The GT3582R will happily support 400rwkw (530rwhp), and will make usable boost by around 3500. I wouldn't bother going bigger unless you are chasing some SERIOUS numbers at the strip. IMHO the sort of torque a GT35R can produce in a zed is bordering on useless on street tyres. I'm sure once JeffP opens his up a bit he'll agree, even more so given hes running the smaller 0.63 housing. I'm very keen to see what TimZ's GT4294R equipped beast will do. If you have access to fabrication skills, I would seriously contemplate making a proper exhaust, and intake manifold. Best of luck, Dave

Fair enough. Just another thought, surely the speed the car will be used at would play a part here? A car whose average speed is higher would likely see more airflow through the intercooler, more so again if ducting is employed, which would potentially improve the efficiency of thicker cored coolers. 85zx, intercoolers and radiators are sometimes mounted on an angle I believe to force the air that does pass through, albiet potentially less given the smaller frontal area, to change direction, which takes longer, and means more cooling is achieved for the same amount of air. Atleast thats how I understand it. Could be something more complicated like the sudden change in direction creating different type of, slower, flow through the core. I'm not sure. Dave

3.5" A bit much? Where does corky say that? Everything is a compromise. The thicker you make the cooler the better it will flow intake charge, but the less the charge flowing through the back bit will be cooled. Have a look at the coolers for mega HP GTRs, E.g. GTR-700 (exvitermini.com) uses a 156mm thick cooler. Something is only `too' anything for a particular application. Dave

If you've got the budget for it, I don't see why you would bother with older style turbochargers. Newer ball-bearings don't really have any disadvantages aside from the cost. Just my opinion I guess, but I can't see the performance, or reliability of newer turbos (talking primarily Garrett here) being worse. Can get some quite large internally wastegated Garrett turbochargers, more than enough for 350usrwhp. Dave

Dwell? Dave

Have you played with dwell settings on the megasquirt? My mate had a similar issue with his RB30ET (GT35R) and that was his problem. Dave

That is very nice work. Question though, why didn't you go multilink/wishbones at the front while you were there? Dave

They are stamped 1-4. Can't remember which way round it goes but I'll check tomorrow and get back to you. Dave

Clifton, Haven't run the car a lot as yet. Will keep you informed if it does. Definitely doesn't blow (oil) smoke though. Dave

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Dave

This is a SR20 yo2001. Dave

From the lower side of the thermostat housing you say? My engine doesn't have one, and neither does my old L24. That being said I'm with zguy36, I am eager to learn about overheating problems as I'm getting really sick of changing head gaskets and am getting ready to start pushing a little over 500hp from mine. One bloke here in Melbourne (Australia) has `drilled the back of the head' to improve the coolant flow stuff. TO be honest I don't fully understand it all. I need pictures. Does the water flow into the engine down the.. err.. spark plug side, past all the cylinders, then around, then back down the manifold side to the thermostat. If thermostat closed then how does it circulate? Through the heater? I have the heater outlet at the rear spark plug side of the head diverting straight back to water pump. :S Stupid coolant. Dave

zguy36, I was sure this was already in a post but I can't find it. So: Yes the turbo is braced. I can undo the bolts to the manifold and the turbo sits in place. But it can still move forwards and backwards to allow for heat expansion in the headers. Not a readily available manifold, once off custom job built entirely by previous owner. Wish it had been my idea. Oh well. Dave

520x300x90 bar and plate

The size of the exhaust is more important the closer you are to the turbocharger. If you have a 2.5" dumppipe you are wasting your time/money going bigger afterwards. If you're budget limited, get 3" as far as you can afford then step down to 2.5. By that time the gas will have cooled some what and be occupying less space, so a 2.5 should be adequate. Dave

Not A Hope. Dave

Err.. i hope you remembered it incorrectly! I don't see why a stud would be any different to a bolt? I've never heard of people throwing away bolts after 2 uses. If you don't have $100 to spend on ARP studs, keep the standard bolts. Retap the block to minimise the binding of the bolt in the thread, and use a good quality moly-based lubricant. Last time I used head bolts I overtorqued them to around 75 ft/lb. Dave

Looks like it'd be fun zane. Best of luck and keep us informed. Dave