thehelix112

Wierd. The flywheel does have metal inserts (that the friction plate sits on) does it not? NFI here sorry, Dave

If its rated to 276 ft/lb, and your engine doesn't make more than that then thats a good sign. Although it is possible that this can reduce as time goes on and the clutch wears. Especially if the clutch gets hot and glazes, like from riding the clutch on a hill for example. Why wouldn't it work with a lightened flywheel? Dave

I would really like to get it calculating valve clearances and the like, which is why there are spots for valve lift and diameter etc. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. Glad its useful. Dave

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Have a play. I don't think you will need the 2mm h/g with the P90 head though. Std L28ET with P90, 1.25mm gasket and dished pistons is 7.38:1 or so. Dave

All good Dale. Must be kinda early there? Dave

Yes. Hmmm... red hot metal, and highly flammable fluid. What do you think? Dave

Copied from datsun1200.com forum: ``dattoman_1000: For the 4 spot Cruiser/Hilux calipers heres a rundown on what they fit. I'll use my part #'s as a way of identifying the units. EC460 all 4wd hilux 79-88 up till LN106. These use staggered piston sizes. Only came in solid disc configuration.Take DB288 pads EC526 LN106 and LN130 89-91.All same size pistons (same size as larger one in EC460). Only came in vented disc configuration. Take DB1149 pads After 91 and for the later models like LN167 and the various imports I don't carry stock of them so I don't have a #. All have vented discs. DB1149 pads All landcruisers to 1990 when the HZJ series started used the same caliper EC458 same staggered piston design as EC460 but fitted vented disc. There was an odd L/cruiser with solid discs but you'd be hard pressed to come across one of those so its irrelevent (would be EC460 if you had these). DB288 pads HZJ75 series EC526. Same caliper as LN106/130 hilux. All pistons large size and vented disc only.DB1149 pads HZJ79 is the later traybacks troopys and use a different caliper (EC142) vented disc and all pistons same large size. DB1365 pads HZJ80 there are 2 different calipers. Both use larger pistons again than the EC526 and are avail with 2 different mounts and gaps for 2 thickness discs. My #'s EC532 and EC534 respectively. DB1199 pads 100 series run a bigger caliper again. Staggered piston design again with a larger piston again than the 80 series and 2 pistons the same size as the 80 series. Require genuine pistons and kits at this stage to overhaul as the aftermarket hasn't caught up yet. I don't carry these calipers yet so no part #. DB1365 pads'' I believe the ECXXX are Ferodo part numbers while the DB are an Australian company (DBA brakes). Hope this helps, Dave

Tried Ferodo? DS2500s are a nice mix of streetably cold and raceably tough. Dave

T'would do it. Be careful with detonation or you'll blow a head gasket quick smart. Or worse, ring lands. Dave

Playing with fire. Race prepping a stock rod is well covered in How to Modify Nissan OHC. Can't go too far wrong with a tried and true formula? Dave

Blimey. That is heavy. Bracing! Dave

You are knowingly going to risk slurting out fuel/nos on the same side of the engine as the red hot exhaust manifold? Are you kidding me? After BOV! Dave

Pity the AZC one doesn't have three bosses, I'd like to have one for oil catch can return too. Custom it is. Dave

homerneedspeed, It would be great if you could get a price/availability on a bell housing to suit L28. Thanks mate, Dave

Most exhaust material isn't suspending 10lb+ of turbocharger. Most guys here abouts use mild (different kettle of fish I know) steam pipe which is 4mm thick and they still crack them. Be interested to see if the ceramic coating lasts. Just doing that for appearance? Or for thermal insulation/reduced lag etc? Dave

neinberg, Nup thats about it. I was given the idea by a track racing mate. Works a treat, but you'll see(hear). Coughing at boost could definitely be spark break down. What heat range plugs are in it? I still don't get why the BOV would go, that only happens when the pressure on the manifold side of the T/B is greater than what the BOV is seeing on the face of its valve (assuming you have it hooked up that way). Dave

Johnc, Thanks for the insight, awesome to hear from someone who has driven/owned one. Its good to hear that the dog rings were lasting well. I'm sold. Need to learn how to match revs a little better though, do you give driving lessons? Dave

2.7mm isn't that thick. Brace it anyway. Remember this thing has to get RED hot and at that sort of temperature its more prone to cracking than otherwise. Nice paint, pity it'll be gone the 1st track day you get to. All in all, a bloody good effort. Wish I had a tig to play with, and any talent at welding would be nice too. Dave

Depends what sort of turbo it is. Journal bearing turbos use oil pressure to suspend the turbine shaft so there is no metal-to-metal contact after you have oil pressure, ball bearing cores not so. Going blindly from memory, my GT35R came with a nice sheet of paper that basically just said make sure it has oil before you start it. So I started my engine up the first time with all lines connected and the turbo sitting on the valance tray. FIlled up a little cup of oil quick smart. I don't believe they require a run-in. As asad said, there is no metal-to-metal SEALING contact in a turbo, such as there is between the rings and bore, so nothing that is required to make a perfect seal before it is given hell. Make sure all the bolts on the housings are nipped up, and give her hell. Dave

Ya get that. I just realised you are exceptionally unlikely to get collapsing intake tract when its pressurised. Hehe.. The BOV going off thing threw me. Fix the mixtures, change the plugs (you've probably fouled those) and for gods sake, make a $10 detonation detector. Dave

prieth, Thanks for that. That car is an impressive bit of kit isn't it. Looks like an OTS bell housing none the less? Could I be that lucky? Ron, I am interested in the jerico because I can get it for around AUD3K in a full race reco state, there are a bajilion ratios to choose from, and they're tough as nails. I will investigate the T5 a little more when the time comes but its hard to pass up a full race box for less money. Dave

Looks good mate! It is definitely blue. Dave

Thats the sort of information I want to hear, thanks. But are you talking about all dogs in general? Or jericos specifically? And I have been told previously that the dog's wear can be minimised by still clutching changes, and that if this is done they will last almost as long as a synchro'd box? Oh and yes, this is for a race car. So 1500 miles is really quite a long time and acceptable. Dave

Guys, Just thinking out loud at this point but I was wondering if anyone has adapted a jerico 4-speed to an L28 before? I can get my hands on ex nascar boxes for a relatively good price so was contemplating a dog kit, sequential shifter for the next stage of my zed. Anyone have any comments/experiences with Jericos? Dave