thehelix112

1 fast z, Do you put much stock in the comments about later turbo blocks (F54) being altered to reduce the siamese in the name of heat dissipation? I forget which book its mentioned in, How to Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine I think? Lvcien, It would be rather silly to get custom pistons made, then get them customised wouldn't it? Perhaps it'd be better to ask these knowledgable chaps how short you can make the skirts before the gudgeon pins get ripped out of the piston, and how short a pin height you can go. Good luck. Dave

Way way way way waaaaaaayyyy too many variables for there to be any rule of thumb. Everything from suspension stiffness to tyre specifications will have an impact. My advice is to decide on what body modifications you are happy to perform, then fit as big rubber under it as you can if you are expecting serious torque (hp means dick) levels. You have the advantage of a light car, and I have seen 245 semi-slicks successfully fitted under std rear S30 guards. All depends how the torque curve is too. If the engine gains 400ft/lb in 500rpm your tyres are going to be hard pressed to keep up. What engine management do you use? A throttle/rpm based increasing boost limit might help. Dave

You going to change your blower pulleys everytime you fill her up with race fuel? You're game. Dave

http://www.stealth316.com/2-air-fuel-flow.htm Check this link.. Plug in the values into the Mass Air Flow bit (Density Ratio is close to pressure ratio) The values agree in the volume air flow but the mass air flow gives significantly different values. Like 6500 at 20psi gives 50lb/min being PESSIMISTIC about Ev and DR. Being optimistic (85% Ev and 10% drop in DR because of heat) the value is 56.4lb/min. A 38% increase in the values plotted against those graphs. Also looking at the graph you might consider that the T61 compressor is way too big because when building boost the compressor is almost in surge, but more importantly in my book is that when you ARE in boost the compressor is becoming more and more efficient. Ie, reducing the increase in inlet temps when detonation is likely to be an issue. Who cares if its off the chart when its not in boost? I'd be checking the Mass Air Flow calculations he used before taking that information as gospel. Dave

I brought my cooler from ARE. They definitely know their stuff but aren't the cheapest place on the planet. Dave

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67187674&highlight=twin+single Good thread on the topic if you can be bothered registering. Dave

Only if it has no way of getting out again. Thats what the vents in the bonnet and behind the front wheels are for. That and a full length tray on the front spoiler should see it a little tidier. I would've thought anyway, I'm no aerodynamicist. Dave

Nice work. I think those bonnet vents would pretty tricky to pull off. I preferred the first front myself, but I like airflow, good for everything. If you've got that much air going into it on the outsides I reckon you should add some vents just behind the front wheel for the heated air to get back out again. oh and can you add a side exhaust exit just in front of the rear wheel? And the front doesn't look flares at all. Dave

Nice mark. Have you done much in the way of lightening? Lexan windows? Got pics of roll cage? Dave

GT35R pros: more power potential, likely new, definitely BB cons: higher boost threshold (3500-3800) R34 twins pros: low boost threshold, low lag cons: less power potential, 2nd hand, BB? Dave

Richard, My only point is that a TO4E/T3 hybrid with a stage V trim turbine wheel is not equivalent to a GT35R. A GT35R wheel is less agressive trim. The improved flow from the turbine housing design might not be enough to overcome this. We'll see. 0.63... I can't imagine needing more response than I have now.. but to each his own. Dave

EBC and manual boost control (I assume you mean bleed valves) are barely comparable. EBC can be configured to hold the gate shut (reducing boost threshold and lag) and is a true control system. Manual control is well.. crap. Dave

GT35R: power R34 twins: response Dave

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_01_fuels.html C16 Used in turbocharged engines, blown engines and nitrous applications with CRs up to 17:1. Recommended by the top nitrous oxide companies. Spec Fuel for NHRA Comp Eliminator. • Color: Blue • Motor Octane: 117 • Specific gravity: .735 at 60° F Dave

Will do. Thanks! Dave

Ta. Dave

Thanks for the compliments mate. Now to build an engine to be worthy of it. T51R-SPL BB will be the next upgrade after I've build the rest to suit. Sorry for the thread hi-jack everyone. Dave

is probably the best shot of it. I take no credit for it. Designed by a bloke called Ian Rowlerson for his race 240z. He decided to go a supercharged 1UZ instead so I picked it up for USD200 ish. Best bargain I've ever got. Dave

Had it dyno'd yet 1 fast z? Interested to see how much it makes. Oh btw, what cam are you running? Must be serious to be worth spinning to 7600-8000. Dave

Wow, #3 really not happy there hey. Another thing I assume you checked was that the ignition interface between the megasquirt and the engine was correct. Ie, the megasquirt was getting pulses at the appropriate time and delivering spark at the appropriate time? You put a timing light on it and verified that against the MS value is what I'm saying I guess. Dave

Thanks guys. Dan, I realise the best way to adjust camber is at the top as you are quite right, its a pain resetting the toe every time you made a change. That being said, you have to move the LCA outwards even more to get the range of adjustment I want at the top given the mounting of the strut (stock) is already at the inner edge (closest to middle of car). So you are stuck with the problem of needing the LCA longer (unless you relocate it as you have mentioned, but too scary for me at this stage I think). I like Terry's solution of heim linking the steering arm. Did you use the standard steering arm there terry? Dave

I had to have the t/b adaptor at an angle to clear the dizzy, which then meant i had to have another small bend on the end of the cooler outlet pipe (just before the 90 deg bend onto the T/B) to get the angles right. If its an L20AET I would possibly look at smaller than 2.5" piping unless you're building it to make some serious power (revs/boost). Also notice that people with cooler with offset end tanks (like mine where the entrance/exits aren't in the middle) really should be putting them with said entrances at the bottom and in the air stream. I didn't because thats where my oil cooler is. Dave

Good point. But you'd have to be backing it off significantly to see a major rise in the EGT yes? A couple of degrees would be ok? Dave