thehelix112

Do you want people stopping you saying, ``thats a nice Chev mate, haven't seen that model before.''? Sod that! Of course turbo adds complexity and cost, but the look on peoples faces when you say, yeah, still an L-series, is priceless. How much would it cost to build a 500hp SBC? Dave

Maybe you should start playing with turbos if you want to stay L. 600hp is well within reach which would see the end of most cars in a straight line, and still corner. Dave

I must admit I don't get the fuss either. A couple of my mates have 76 works cams in their L20Bs and with the right tuning (silly webber people) they will idle at 800rpm quite happily. Thats from a what? 230 0.05 dur cam or there abouts? Go big. Dave

Don't do it. Dave

I bet the bolt that holts the timing sprocket on has come undone and popped off. Happened to a mate. He bent a valve in the process, hope you didn't. Dave

Bit late now I suppose, but I think a GT4088R will get you 600rwhp and be a lot nicer. (Exactly half way between the GT3582R and the GT4294R as it happens). Dave

240z-turbo is right. You should be able to brace it vertically and still allow for movement in the direction things will expect. If you don't you WILL get cracks, which are probably what your cracks now are from. Remember the metallurgy of metal would have to change somewhat when they're seeing 1000 deg. If done properly you should be able to disconnect the turbo from the manifold and have it sit there. PS. why are you going to the 42R? (and is it the 4294R or the 4202R?) Chasing more than 600hp? Dave

Yep. Knew all that. I was wondering whats the most you have heard of. Dave

I just don't get show cars I suppose, but whats the point? Its shiny, so is the restrictive inlet manifold. Dave

BRAAP, Can you enlighten us about these Ls? Maximum horsepower from an L6 and what bore/stroke/use would be nice. Dave

Good to hear mate. I give it 3 weeks and you'll be wanting more. Dave

I would suggest that you could happily run 10psi through a 8.8:1 CR engine WITH intercooling and good engine management. I may well be wrong but newer engines like the RB25DET are 9:1 and seem to get away with it. Dave

T56 is a manual gearbox. Dave

Thanks Mike. Will do. Dave

Very interesting, can anyone confirm this? Dave

If you are going to be doing that spending $100 on a tailshaft is the least of your worries. I'd be more worried about the input shaft spline and the custom clutch/flywheel that it could require. I have thought about doing the T-56 onto L28 too. My plan was to use the 240Z two piece bell front bit and cut the plate off and get a new one with the flange for the T-56 to bolt to welded on. Let us know how you go, Dave

karay240, I've heard exactly the opposte re journal vs bb. From what I understand the BB has lower rolling resistance which means the wheel accellerates faster and boost comes on much faster. Dave

525, what gear did you do your tests in again? Dave

http://www.datrats.com.au/OS%20GIKEN%20ENGINES.htm Some OS Giken head info. Dave

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fnkondo-web.hp.infoseek.co.jp%2fKameari_L6_2.htm Dave Also check out the full counterweighed stroker crank! Hmmmmmm... http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ja_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fnkondo-web.hp.infoseek.co.jp%2fKameari_L6_1.htm

I will be timing mine (with the computer's data logger) the next time I drive it. Dave

Hey mate, Nice 60' time. What tyres was that on? Also what suspension? My 1st (and only so far) time out I only managed a 2.2 60' with an open diff and 195 pirellis. I'm hoping for around 1.7 wish locker and 225 semi slicks. Dave

And they threw away cranks every 3 races. Dave

A L28E with 8.29 or so CR will happily cope with 10psi+. I would suggest that a GT40R is too big for that small boost. You will most likely be borderline surging for a while and it would come on quite late. As for general L-series weaknesses you can read all about some in How to Modify your Nissan Datsun OHC book. Problems that float around are: - harmonics at high revs due to the long L6 crank being not fully counterweighted - valve bounce above 7000 with std springs - timing chain whip at high rpm due to the pathetic tensioner Aside from that I'm sure you're aware of the things on an engine that need to be strengthened when you start making a lot of torque. Dave

Are you quoting intake/exhaust or exhaust/intake timing there? Can you quote in 0.05" dur because adv dur means jack. Same exhausts? Dave