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thehelix112

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Everything posted by thehelix112

  1. You would be fine. I might suggest you replace the front bearings in the gearbox (30 minute job) before putting it back in. I chewed the countershaft bearing when running my 240Z box behind the L28 turbo. Dave
  2. The euro-T4 flange is identical to a T3 flange so a lot of turbos (my old TO4B for instance) have that flange. Not to mention if you are using a hybrid T3/T4 it will obviously be a T3 flange. Can't you just buy another T3 flanged one and sell the T4 flange? What exactly are you changing anyway? Entire turbos? Or just the turbine housing? Dave
  3. Ok thanks. Thats not that heavy for a rim that size. Best of luck with them. Oh and mind if I clarify the OD of your c/o springs? Dave
  4. Oh and how much do these wheels weigh? 6061 centres sound promising but I'm keen to know anyway. Dave
  5. Has anyone been running wheels 10"+ on a race car for any length of time? I'm looking towards upgrading the wheels but am a little concerned about the poor wheel bearings with that much extra load on them. Dave
  6. Me very likey. I didn't know about CCW rims (being in Aus). They look damn good! Dave
  7. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Little engine calculator I wrote a while back. If anyone has specs that aren't in there, like head CCs, please PM me and I'll add them for everyone. Dave
  8. Been said 1000 times before. If its a chinese copy, its likely to be comparatively unreliable. If its a MasterPower then thats not so bad as I belive its a brazilian company redoing old garret designs. Ebay for anything important is a bit of a gamble IMHO. Dave
  9. My car makes my gf sick. And shes only been in it on 5psi, with no tune, in a straight line. Dave
  10. There is the megasquirt and the megasquirt II officially as well as a whole host of other spin-off versions MSnS. Broadly speaking spin-offs use code flash changes to get extra functionality over the basic fuel-only megasquirt I. The megasquirt II provides more functionality with hardware upgrades. Get the MSII if you can. Dave
  11. Google > Hybridz http://www.injectorservices.com/FlowDataPix/s3102.jpg - 580cc http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp - 55lbs/hr http://www.racetronix.com/3102FM.html - 57lb/hr Dave
  12. I wouldn't trust an electronic knock sensor with a whipper-snipper engine. The two things attached to the side of your head are the best knock sensors in the world. Dave
  13. If you are doing the easy thing and datalogging the output of the wideband driver then you really want to minimise the lag and get it as close to the turbo as you can without it getting too hot. 18 inches sounds about right to me. I mounted mine totally vertical. Dave
  14. If you want to be careful you will need to take the turbo off the car. Then its just a matter of unbolting the 6 or so bolts that connect the housing to the centre and twisting it gently by hand to break the seal with any crap thats built up. Just be careufl when moving the housing off that you don't smack it against the turbine wheel blades and you'll be fine. $250 will be all labour. Do it yourself if you have time. Its not hard. Dave
  15. Not sure about the US but we can get Subaru STI turbochargers VF22(?) for around USD300 each here in Aus. Roller bearing, minimal shaft play. Unsure how two would spool on a 2.8L, one spools like this on a 1.8L golf engine: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb222/attachment.php?attachmentid=36063 They're also probably a tad big for autoX being around a 350hp(ea) turbo. Maybe something else? WRX turbo? CA18DET turbo? You should be able to nick something new and little for $300/ea. Dave
  16. Std N/A engine with turbo gear attached I believe. Dave
  17. There ya go. I would still say its playing with fire and that what we do in our back yards isn't really that comparable to what porsche does as part of its manufacturing procedures. Dave
  18. I'm asuming you're talking about exhaust ports? Does porsche cost the exh ports of turbo cars? Did you look at the turbine blades on one that'd separated. I was more talking about the stuff that happens in the combustion chamber. Not after it. Dave
  19. Playing with fire here. Potential to make a small amount more hp, and potential to absolutely root everything in your engine if the coating decides to seperate. You surely should be listening with a proper detonation detector while tuning your car, then its a matter of checking everything is still happy so it doesn't lean out while driving hard. If something goes wrong and you get a lot of detonation SOMETHING is going to go bust. If its not the head gasket, its the pistons. Nothing will hold up against hard det. So all you are doing is buying yourself an extra few seconds or so before something goes pop, but running the risk of shagging your engine entirely. I think I'll just check the fuel pressure before i go out on the track each time. Dave
  20. Further to previous comments about dirty fuel pumps. Buy some redline fuel system cleaner and run that through it. As a cheap'n'nasty fix it might help clear out the injectors if they are dirty. You really should do it properly with programmable computer and intercooling. Oh and I'd bet money that if you can hear it at 5000 that its there all the time just softer and less. Dave
  21. ~285mm rubber should definitely be able to put down just about everything a GT35R can dish out assuming you don't let it hit uncontrolled. Dave
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