thehelix112

Are you saying there are two sets of bearings? Ones that the shaft spins on and ones that...? And I'm not getting the creep thing at all. Define `one way' please. Dave

The argument makes sense, but you would think that the factory is capable of balancing the rotating mass enough that the bearings don't get worn. Unless your supplier is doing funky stuff like putting bigger compressor wheels on the front and then rebalancing it himself, in which case..... Dave

280ZForce, The GT35R only comes in 3 specs representing different A/R turbine housings. 0.63, 0.82 and 1.06. The choice is up to you but I would say that 0.63 would choke an L28 before 7000, 0.82 comes on nicely around 3500ish, while a 1.06 will let you max out the compressor and take around another 1000rpm to come on - from what I hear, never done it myself. Richard, You could use either I would think. A friend runs the 1.06 on an SR20 with some angry cams and makes full boost (26psi) by 4800. Dave

73turbo240z, All good. I wish you the best of luck changing the head gasket over. Usual stuff, don't forget to chock the timing chain tensioner etc etc which you obviously already know. I'm sure you'll get it back together again for christmas. Make yourself a set of those headphone detonation detectors. You can hear everything and it'll cost you all of $10. Dave

Did I see thumper mention that your car has a higher compression ratio than his? Using the same type of fuel? There are more places to get 12V from than the cigarette lighter. Dave

S15_200SXetcetc, Yep, tis a VL. busnm280, My autronic is a SMC. Base piece of crap. Single coil ignition using #1 spark plug reference (ewww!) and a custom hall-effect dizzy. Very simple, but works ok. ZuL8r, 0.82 240hoke, 1400USD? Joking. Mate just got one ex-USA for USD1250. Must be cheaper over there than that? Dave

Pre-tuned you reckon. Lot of faith in someone with `pretty much the same' mods if you ask me. You can change a head gasket in a day. Get cracking. Dave

Mike, I run a 3" open pipe with a 2.5" screamer, nice and quiet aren't they So let me get this straight, you drove an untuned (for the turbo) car, with no wideband, and no detonation detection, and you are surprised it blew a head gasket? Dave

Assuming you checked the head and the block for flatness, and assembled the ARP head stud kit to spec (60ft/lb I believe), then I'll bet you $100 it was detonating. Have you hooked up a trusty ear-muff det detector to the engine? Copper pipe, hammer one end flat, drill hole. bolt to top of block on passengers side (there are two places for it on the F54 so I bolted two), run hose into cabin, drill hole in cheap ear muffs and stuff hose in. Voila. Best detonation detector you'll ever own. What timing was it running? What AFR? Oh and get an OEM gasket. They are still available. Dave

That thing is an absolute beast! Love it! I'm running a 3.54 R180 locker with std half shafts. Any details on times you've run with them? I'm heading to the strip this weekend and am just wondering how much I should expect from them? Dave

The number of bends in a system is of relatively neglible different for 90% of applications I would think. Maybe on a fullhouse race engine you would care. Far as I can see the goal would be to get the turbo as far away from the inlet tract/manifold as possible. Dunno if moving it fowards accomplishes that. Dave

Primarily because I care more about how fast my car is than how it looks. Which would be evident in that fact that it looks like a piece of rubbish ( rust and spray can paint - ) Dave

I'm still sorting it out properly busmn280, no dyno sheets as yet. Engine is a stock L28ET (F54/P90). Have a look at JeffP's posts for a dyno sheet of one on a stroker. Then push the graph a little more to the right and that'd be about it for a std L28, at a blind guess. Will keep you informed. Dave

I doubt you'll regret it. There is a track car, plated HSVSUX in Auckland, that runs the 1.06 on his RB30ET. He moves up from the 0.82 to stop spinning his (warmed up) 260 dunlop slicks on 140kph corner exits. Dave

Took me a good 30 seconds to figure out what BSME and BSEE are. They're BEng(Mech) and BEng(Elec) for the antipedians here. Why do we want to shoot flames again? Fuel is expensive! Dave

Guys, Been getting a few PMs about this so figured I'd post a thread. I know Tony has already reported that JeffP gets full boost by 3500ish on his stroker L. So I would expect to be getting full boost somewhere between 3700 and 4000 on a standard L28ET, with appropriate wastegate control/exhaust of course. The GT35R is a nice size for the L28ET depending on what you want to do with it. If you want a street car that will pull from almost idle this isn't the combination for you. If you want a car you can toodle around in off boost but has plenty of power available up higher then its perfect. FWIW with a decent wastegate spring and 3" no muffler exhaust boost hits hard around 3500 (no tacho/log so I'm just guessing) and spun up the wheels in 4th (in the dry, with a locker, at 65mph). The new garrett BB turbos come on VERY fast. I know track racers who go oversize turbine housings and throttle dependent boost limits just so they don't fry the tyres. If you can afford it, and the systems to run it (460cc injectors at 48psi are only good to around 20psi - just getting cooking on this turbo), I say go for it. Dave

bastaad525, Check for the telltale soot from any manifold leaks. Pull the turbo off and see if it still has an exhaust wheel. Put the timing back to normal and see what happens. Check the turbo oil feed line and shaft play. Check for cracks around the wastegate flap and that its fully closed when the actuator is in the default position. Thats about all I can think of. Dave

Yeah, for the two days until the vains burn out. Dave

That is the best movie I've ever seen, and I don't speak japanese. All I heard was zed car sounds, on and blah blah blah mikuni turbo blah blah in there somewhere. Wish I could find a 650hp L28 at the dump. Dave

Unless someone has evidence to support their claim that it makes no difference, ie, lag between gear changes with and without, or even better, a turbo tacho log during gear change with and without, then I'd be doing it. As slownrusty says, cheap insurance. Dave

Legend. Dave

Yeah that and the PCD of the top is entirely different? Dave

HeatRaveR, No. Wideband o2 sensors require some sophisicated driver electronics to heat them and determine the current required to burn the mixture in them which is then a measure of the richness. Lots of good details here: http://www.wbo2.com, and on the megasquirt site. You should run a standard O2 sensor and put another bung close to it for the wideband if you want to do any tuning. Dave

Clinton, You are wrong mate. Give it up. Mass does not equal volume. Volume is variable according to the formula: PV = nRT change pressure or temperature and you change the volume. And unless you're accellerating the whole lot to light speed mass isn't going to change. The combustion process gives extra PRESSURE which is what we want due to an increase in BOTH temperature and volume. Temperature because of the heat and volume because of the state change of dense liquid (petrol) to mostly water(steam). Dave

Ain't bad at all. Go for it.