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Everything posted by Racin_Jason
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purist is a nice name for elitest. If yours is not the same as mine..it sucks! As a reward for having to deal with these types of people they also usually have another trait. They are extremely sore losers. They often cry and put on a funny show after you beat them at anything. Tantrums are my favorite
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289 has the right idea. If you are a mechanic or a tradesman that uses your tools day in-day out, you should look into buying some decent quality stuff like SnapOn, Mac, Craftsman, etc. However if you are a hobbiest or someone that only uses the tools occasionally..then Harbor Freight is a blessing! Thier tools work and get the job done for a fraction of the price of anything with a known name. ALL of thier hand tools have a lifetime warranty and they will usually exchange power tools also. Like mentioned earlier you will want quality where it counts, such as a torque wrench. For the other 95%+ of the tool box (that does not require strict tolerance or strength), you cant go wrong with HF stuff. I have personally abused tons of HF tools and am still a loyal customer. Thier engine stands and jack stands are strong. You'll have no issues
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Funny you should say that. I recently went from game addiction to Z addiction and I havent looked back. Its been almost 2 months and I have gotten a LOT done. I wont be sittin on my ass in front of a screen this summer. I'll be out foggin the tires in my V8Z!
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lmao that is unreal. I know from past personal experience that WoW can take over your life but I never imagined anything like this. Reminds me of the crackhead skits "Cmon man, I'll suck yo d***!!" I suppose its safe to say that blizzard made one HELL of a game when woman are willing to whore themselves out and "anyone will do..just have the gold" -jeez
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Lookin' good dude! I look forward to seeing some action videos soon.
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Well its that time again. Time for new tires on my new wheels and I am debating over a 25" tall tire or a 26" tall tire (40 and 45 series respectively). I have looked at countless pics and threads to help me decide but I am still unsure. I am unfamiliar with clearance of a 26" tire on a very low car...and I am unfamiliar with how much the 1/4" shorter sidewall will truly effect the ride quality and straight line traction on such a light car. What would you do? My car - 71 240Z, Chev 350, 700r4 auto tranny, 17x8" Centerlines, 225f/250r 8" coilovers with illuminas. This is a street car so Im trying to keep the ride tolerable but get as much cornering grip out of it as possible for canyons and some closed course stuff. Jason
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Great info guys thanks for posting it. My CVs are from a 280zx and indeed do have the bigger endcap protrusion. I went looking for a washer to space out the companion flange a bit and I couldnt find anyone that had anything. I even went to an industrial fastener supply company who is known to be 'the' place to find this stuff..no dice. Its looking like I have exhausted my local resources at this point. Maybe I can find some 300zx endcaps from a member and have them shipped. As for today though I am going to go and try to 'massage' my large endcaps enough to get a flush mount. p.s. If anyone has a pair of the shorter endcaps and could help me out by shipping them to me, that would be great. Shoot me a PM if so.
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Any 700 r4 experts out there?
Racin_Jason replied to HICKL's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Tv cable http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/transmission/tvcable.html Wiring choices http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=O -
I am seriously considering trying this washer method Terry. Finding one that will fit might be difficult though. So I called around today to find these CV endcaps that J.Soileou recommended and no dice. I called driveline places, nissan and finally a Zcar specialty shop. Not a single one of them could source these caps and couldnt tell me where to get them. It was suggested the only way to get them would be used from someone. At this point I am considering taking a hammer to my endcaps to try and sink 'em in a 1/4" so I can move on with the work at hand. Either that or trying to source a washer that fits between the outer bearing and companion flange and is thick enough. It doesnt look like massaging the endcaps will hurt anything. The spring it holds in is very low tension. Im just not sure the steel is thin enough to be able to simply crush it down a bit and have it remain even at the spring seat. Im about to go have a look right now. I need to get the rear done and move on Jason
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Nice!
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Terry- I too knew nothing of these washers until I saw that diagram. It is from a online resource I just found called carfiche.com (very handy) Here is the page I cut from above.. http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?5:i:15 It appears to be a copy of a Nissan factory master parts list for the parts counter guys. Aparently these washers started in June of 73 and were required when a certain stub axle was used, if Im reading it correctly. Thats all I know about them so far. I quit looking into them when I grabbed a tape measure and compared the spacer thickness with the distance between the inner and outer bearing seats. It does not appear that I could fit these washers if I tried so I am hoping to get somewhere with replacing the endcap tomarrow. Jason
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Ya know I never thought of that. I did pop the endcap off to see what was behind it though. There was a spring up against the inside of the endcap with tension on it. I figured modifying the endcap (or a shallower one) would change the tension on the spring so I left it at that. So an axle shop would have different endcaps on hand that would fit these particular CVs eh? Thanks much for the input!
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After looking at it a bit more it sure seems like the stub axle is sitting too deeply into the bearing housing, hence the rear of it sticking out too far. Approximately 1/4" too far. After looking at the exploded view of the axles the only thing I can see that may be causing this is the lack of washers on either end of the bearing spacer in the housing. However my records show that these 2 washers were on 73+ cars though and mine is a 71. Two washers thickness seems to be about what I am lacking but I am not sure if the addition of these washers would even change the position of the stub axle in the housing. I see nothing else thats missing and no way for it to go together any differently.
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SO I am putting Ross' CV adapters (for 280zx CVs) and a set of 280zx CV on my 240Z right now. I went to bolt the outer CV shaft to the adapter and noticed there was a gap between them. The stub axle is hitting the center of CV shaft before the mounting point can make contact with the adapter. The protruding end cap on the CV shaft looks like it is made to possibly butt up against the stub axle..but I cant imagine this is how its supposed to be. Am I supposed have a gap between the mounting flanges of the adapter and CV when they are torqued down? This would put the load on the center cap of the CV shaft and not the mounting surface itself. Any direction while I still have some light to finish this would be appreciated Jason
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strut bar almost done
Racin_Jason replied to midnightmoonlight's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
You just gave me an idea! Thanks -
I actually stopped in on a tranny shop and got some advice on this. They too said to pull the pan and look. They also said based on what I remember the builder telling me that a 12v switched to the front-outer pin should do it. Im still going to drop the pan and have a look. If its only one wire going to the connector inside the tranny, then the single switched 12v line is all thats needed (they said). We'll see..
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How to bench test stock 240Z guages?
Racin_Jason replied to Racin_Jason's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Unfortunately its not that easy. The car is apart and does not run. I dont even have a battery for it yet. Thanks for the idea though. Would be the way to do it on a running car. Jason -
egads! Sorry for the size. Not sure why they grew when linked
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Zone you so-n-so..I thought I was the only one with those wheels on a Z. Have anymore pics I can see? What size wheels/tires? Oh and here's my POS Engine before after Car as bought During (car isnt done) Im going back to flat black from the semi gloss soon.
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How to bench test stock 240Z guages?
Racin_Jason replied to Racin_Jason's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Im not going away BTT -
nice post. If I run into fuel starvation due to inadequate feed/return on my 240z8, I will be looking for a 280 tank
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How to bench test stock 240Z guages?
Racin_Jason replied to Racin_Jason's topic in Ignition and Electrical
After more searching over the last couple days I have found...nothing bump! -
I envy your backyard! Oh and the 509 sounds fun too. One of these days Ill own some land..one of these days
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71 240Z roller with straight, minimal rust body - $500 3 years ago . Worth every penny!..of half of that..in monopoly money..ok its just a POS. It'll do though