Racin_Jason

just saw lifegrddude did mention 2JZ...oops. Anyways..if itll fit...that is my choice hands down.

If an inline 6 will fit, I cant believe no one has mentioned the MKIV Supra TT engine (2JZ-GTE i think). You wanna talk bulletbroof and potential? These little 3liters have that in spades. I'm a Muscle head through and through...but...I WILL own a 93-98 Supra TT one of these days. Amazing engine in an amazing package. Has to be driven to be appreciated RJ

Weld the doors and paint a big 01 on the side? sorry..lol

I like it. I'd kill for that rubber! Although with independent rear suspension its probably not worth as much as one might think. Squat= / /

Check my post on your other thread. Just one of many choices but itll work!

I drive a lifted F150 right now and miss having a fast daily driver. I read about these built diesals and it sounded intrigueing. I mean...hell, I can tow my race car, haul lumber, have plenty of seating for 4 AND RUN 12s? Sounds like a dream come true...til you have to STOP. I'll keep my F150 for now..

Just a larger carb, dualplane intake manifold and a cam swap would probably amaze you. I wouldnt spend the money on new heads unless you will reuse them on your next engine for sure. Something like Used Carter 625 or Holley 650 vacuum secondary (150) Edelbrock Performer intake manifold (70) Comp Cams Xtreme energy "262" (150 new with lifters last i bought one) I would bet that youd say something like "WOW!...thats the best damn 370 i ever spent!" Good luck! Jason

"two years is steep, just dont pick up the soap!" Thats fuked up man. Im gonna pretend I didnt see that joke at our brothers expense

umm....ok then

Thx much Kevin, Yea I hardly ever see it anymore. Been stored at the inlaws house for well over a year. No room in the 2 car garage with the Z and Camaro, SuperDans cherrypicker, rollaways etc etc. I just noticed that nasty Ford BB was 15 grand. The big power BBs like that are always insane money. Even the CHevys. Still usually best to build yourself I think. Hell, I only have 5500 in my BB and its got a forged 4340 rotating assembly and some nice bits. My MIT buddy designed it and he says itll handle another 300 worth of nitrous without breakin a sweat. That means things are gonna get nuts once I get used to the NA 600 at the track. But its a street car Should liven up those trips to Walmart and work. Jason

number 1 looks frighteningly like the car just crushed a guy into the wall...and yea that would hurt!

my pleasure. You're welcome! Good luck! Jason

RRRiiiiiiiiight....

The one I built might not make THAT much power....but it does make around 600HP on pump gas Maybe i should stick the damn thng in a car now huh?....sigh Z first....then street strip Camaro...must be patient

5.0's are known for their sweet exhaust note. When the stock exhaust is opened up with aggressive mufflers and an offroad H-pipe...they do bark! Even with the engine being stock through a free flowing system...FI 302's have that trademark deep growl to wicked snarl sound when on the gas through the rev range. Chances are he had the H-pipe, no cats and a flowmaster American thunder system under it if it really BARKED when he got on it... edit: also, the 302's being a small displacement engine that revs freely (compared to other V8s)....just the fact that they build revs so quickly makes for a "sharp" sound. Trucks are kind of mono tone because of their effective RPM operating range. They normally shift around 3500 unless you have it floored. So, 1500-3500 doesnt allow for much frequency shift in the exhaust note. Now a HO 302 5spd that idles 800, eases off the line at 2000 and shifts at 5000+ (or well over 6000 if they are on it) gives both a broader spread of RPMs ..and SOUND take care Jason

Nice to see ya agian bang Now...am I the only one that about sh!t my pants with laughter when they saw they PHAT DOPE RACE TACH? That'll definately help him with his track times...lol

Hiya zbobo and welcome to the darkside! I want to try to give you the answers you are looking for. I was there 1.5 years ago and its all still fairly fresh in my memory banks. Here it goes~ Chevy engines are by far the most common choice for good reason. Some main points are: There are prefabbed kits for the SBC that are proven well engineered and reliable..SBC parts are the cheapest V8 parts sold, allowing more money towards other parts of the car..SBC come in a variety of displacements (both factory stock and aftermarket) and are easily designed to the users preferably powerband..SBC "issues" are far better covered here on HybridZ then other powerplants, so you are more likely to get any problems solved with a quick search (HELPFUL!). Now, SBC DO have their cons aswell. They are the heaviest of the small blocks...and the distributors placement limits how far you can set the engine back in the bay (better weight distribution), to name a couple. Now for your questions~ i've looked into the weight diffs and there's alwatys alsil's xmember, but either way there's going to be fabrication.... but i gather it to be less with a chevy engine? The JTR kit is pretty much a bolt together deal. You will have to remove the stock 240Z tranny mounts to fit the T56 you want, tho. You can choose to fab the mounts and spacers yourself using JTRs specs...or you can have them sent to your door ready to go. being new to american engines this might come off as a retarded question but, which engine would be cheaper as far as a. the swap in general and b. aftermarket parts? I will let the Ford guys chime in on "the swap" part since I do not know how much they spend for their cars. I do know that the entire JTR prefabbed kit is around $325 last i checked...and it will get cheaper if you fab somethngs yourself. Also, most people dont buy the whole kit since they dont need it all. Think junkyard, ebay etc. As for the aftermarket parts, Chevy will be the cheapest. Always has been. Tim was kind enough to answer the LT1 questions, so no need for an encore there. Torque is easy to make in any of these engines, really. Fortunately, torque is also cheaper to build then horsepower (within streetcar limits anyways). As with any engine, remember that torque is directly affected by displacement. So that 383 is gonna make more torque then the 350, given the same engine combo for both engines. Not that you would need any bigger then a 350, which I doubt you would. You can budget build a Chevy 350 to make over 400Lbs of torque fairly cheaply. I'll give an example build... junkyard/used 350 with even compression and minimal boring = $150-350 GMPP Vortec cast iron cylinder heads = $450 Performer intake (vortec style) = $180new or 90used ebay Holley vacuum secondary 4bbl carb = $150 ebay Comp Cams Extreme Energy 262 camshaft/lifters = $160 New rotor/cap/performance module for junkyard HEI dizzy = <$50 Shorty headers = <$200 I believe this budget combo would make something like 275-325HP and 350-400TQ (depending on engine condition, temperature etc). Anyone feel free to slap me into reality if I made a mistake here. A great place to learn about the different engines, prices, designs and proven combos is car mags! For Chevy...Chevy High Performance has some great info. Car Craft is my other source. They tell it how it is and show you the results to back it. Good place to start. Hopefully this helps in some way. I feel indebted to this website and its members for all the help I got and am still getting. It's a true pleasure to give a little back when I can. Best of Luck! Jason

Bad taste Sorry I read this thread..

Speaking of the Dyno Shop in Santee. I went in a few weeks ago for a quote on getting some shakedown pulls on my 240Z. The guy wanted $120 for a half hour (2 pulls usually). He didnt "act" like he wanted my buisness either. Short and too the point and off he went about his buisness. Didnt feel very good about that place. I'll wait til a club rents one out or a group of us maybe. Dyno Shop seemed a little expensive for 2 pulls...

Lingenfelter - Chevrolet Roush - Ford Hennesey - Dodge Spoon - Honda etc

I was on the mad quest of the perfect flare/drop/tuck also. Then I went coilovers and 17x8 with no flairs. I spoke to MSA regarding their flares several times and, finally, I got a guy that would measure. He said they allowed for 1.5" additional tire width beyond the stock fender and they were 2" wide total - from the fender to the edge of the flair. Hope this helps. Jason

Very impressive looking indeed! This is the second post ive seen this week talking of turbos AND a blower at the same time. Im not quite sure what the purpose is , although i can get imaginative. Looks to me like it might even me an air-to-water I/C..with no outlet . Ive never seen a roots style blower that mounted that far away from the intake runners, nor have i seen one with what looks like a big filler spout on it. Also, the "blower" isnt inline with the intake flow. Its off to the side of the piping. Much like a pressure relief/controller. Anyone care to explain this setup? It looks alittle fishy to me to be what was described. Things that make ya go HMMM....

I would be interested in the tshirt for sure. May I suggest, if possible, to have the hats be fitted types made to order? I dont wear 1-size-fits-all hats usually. Not a big fan of having an adjustable band diggin into my forehead. Denim shirt , long or short sleeve. NO THX The patches are a great idea. my 2c

I concur with Scottie and Davy here. No need for further comment