monk3y

Here is some pictures of the surge tank setup, I still need to put the car back on the jack stands so I couldn't get the best angles. I ended up grabbing that strut are as the woman I bought it from even produced an original receipt with the strut bar. For the $40 I spent on it I seriously cannot complain.

I am considering that or just grabbing that strut bar, I may have a friend with a bender now that I think about it. I can grab some pictures a bit later. I used a cheap surge tank with the pump in the actual surge tank itself. I have been considering revisiting the way I did it as an in-tank pump solution with some fuel baffling may be a better solution. But I really should just get it running and see if it is worth it to redo the setup from there. I don't know how the clutch is on the street yet I haven't gotten that far yet. I actually picked up this clutch setup used so I bought a pair of PTT orgainic disks which according to them are good for 400lb ft tq per disk so should be good for around 800 which is way above where I need it to be so I should be fine in that department. The issue I am going to run into is with the clutch slave cylinder on the 350z transmission not pulling the throw out bearing away from the clutch. I am going to switch to a pull style slave cylinder I think. No problem I am happy to answer questions.

I did consider that, but since I don't have a tube bender and I would prefer the bar not just being straight. I actually found a "Cusco" bar on craigslist for $40 though looking at it again it's not a real Cusco bar making it unsure about the quality so I may revisit that idea potentially.

I am going to be redoing my upper core support in favor of a removable unit for easy of maintenance and I just don't like how I did it honestly. I just bought a tig welder so tat opens up my possibilities and I decided I a going to take a Cusco strut bar and turn that into a removable aluminum upper core support. The lower will be the same 1.5" DOM tubing I have in there now. Expect more updates to come a little more regularly than this last update. I will try and post some more pictures after I recover the old pictures from my broken phone.

Well I totally got caught up in life for awhile but I am back!!! Since I last posted I moved out of my shop and into another house, and have gone through a daily project cars which presently has me with a 1990 Toyota Celica All-Trac. Z Update: Progress since I last posted is quite extensive so I will just list what has been installed and built. -Twin Disk QuarterMaster Clutch with organic disks -Q45 Differential with Nismo CLSD center -T3 Mustache Bar -T3 Shortnose R200 Mount -Modified rear control arm crossbar -Hybrid Z31T/Pathfinder CV axles -240sx rear disk brakes -Hawk pads in all 4 corners -Rebuilt S30 Calipers (Will likely be replaced) -AEM 380lph fuel pump in an external surge tank -Carter low pressure lift pump -1/2 aluminum fuel likes front to back (will be redoing with braided AN line probably) -Aeromotive FPR -GKtech 350z shifter -Widened Work wheels to 17x9.5 and 17x11.5 -CX Racing Intercooler -Ron Davis Radiator -Synase R35 blow off valve I also made my turbo collector pipe and down pipe as you will see in the pictures which I am pretty proud of asides from how close the downpipe is to certain things. I have way more pictures than I am posting but a lot of them are stuck on my old broken phone and I haven't had a chance to recover them as of yet.

I am in the middle of a bizarre differential swap and what I am really after is just the outer 4 bolt CV joints as I the rest wont work in my application. The axles can be junk as long as the outer CVs are in good shape. I also would be interested in a set of 4 bolt companion flange adapters, before I order a new set figured I would ask on those too.

I completely forgot to update this, a lot has happened since I posted this. The motor is now in the car all bolted up asides from the transmission crossmember and mount which needs modification. I am working on turbo placement, my friend is giving me hand with the welding as I don't presently have a welder. The turbo placement is going to get in the way of the radiator placement so that alone with the intercooler will be on the other side of the core support. A few more parts have come in, which I am excited about. All of the exhaust vbands and the T4 flange. As well as a Synapse R35V BOV which I got a huge discount. I picked it up from craigslist a few years back. It's an older imsa 3 piece spoiler. That I don't remember. They are flipped lips and were something like a +41 offset I believe.

I originally started building this as a budget swap and that snow balled as soon as I thought about turboing it. My adapter plate can also work with 350 and 370z transmissions. That's my next step of I kill this transmission.I was wrong,I actually have a sr20 trans which is a little bit stronger from look at the internals side by side.

I have had a build log up on Ratsun for sometime but I figured it was time I post it up over here as it may get more love here. I have owned this car since 2010 but I only really started making progress in the past few years when I moved to Oregon. The name of the car came from a Japanese rocket powered suicide plane, the elongated nose made me think s30. Here she is as she presently sits. The present mods include: -T3 coils 225/250 -T3 front camber plates -Urethane bushings -Upgraded front and rear sway bars -Xenon airdam -imsa spoiler -Work VS Mesh 17x9 Wheels -E30 Recaros -Nissan Cherry taillights Now for what's going on right now. I am going to be pulling the sickly l28 I have in there to pulled this weekend to make room for my 4 liter 1UZ from a LS400 which will be paired with a Borg Warner S366 ar .83 with a upgraded billet compressor wheel. It will be running MS3x with full sequential ignition and injection. I also an adapter plate for a 240sx 5 speed which I will be using. Paired with a Flywheel from a turbo 2nd gen MR2. The parts I have: - Rear disk swap - 1uz-fe with rear sump pan - MK3 Supra mounts - 240sx transmission adapter - Oil filter relocation kit - Borg Warner S366 Turbo twin scroll - Suzuki GSXR COPs - Turbo MR2 Flyweel - Turbo MR2 Stage 3 Pressure plate - ACT stage 3 6 puck 240sx clutch plate What's still needed: - 4 piston front brakes - Fuel pressure Regulator - Fuel pump - Twin 38mm waste gates - Megasquirt - Shortened driveshaft - Exhaust - Intercooler - Cold side piping - BOV This weekend is the plan to pull the motor, get the engine bay cleaned up and get the new motor mounted into place so everything else can be mocked. I am going to be moving in April and the car is going to my friends place for the turbo manifold and exhaust.

I don't think you would run into any clearance issues with jpn garages wide flares. I am running with with a set of Work 17x9s with a -50 offset but I'm running into some clearance issues due to the offset. I will say this much though. the fender flares aren't of the best quality. Mine have a lot of little imperfections.

So regulator is out. The system us running at 36psi at idle.

I double checked my compression test and it was hitting 160 so I am idiot in that respect. Thus far I found out all the plugs are equally black. I was about to run a fuel pressure test when someone broke into my garage and stole pretty much every tool I own. I'm starting to think the fuel pressure regulator may be at fault here. I am pretty positive my injectors are right for my car, It was running fine on these injectors till recently. I will test vacuum pressure when I can get a tool to do so.

It's a 78, and no.

I'm looking for a l28 in decent shape. A turbo motor would be cool but that may be asking too much. My engine's rings are going and the thing has been a pain from the start. Any help would be awesome.

Well I just ran a compression test and I think I found my issue. I was hitting about 115-120. What's weird is it doesn't feel down on power. I double checked my readings too.

The seafoam I used was the spray stuff it didn't go in my fuel,just the intake. I did both of those things and it's no better off. So think the problem has to be elsewhere. Either a leaky injector or maybe an egr issue.

Well did that and tosses in some seafoam just to give it a shot. It scored worse with a 313hc and a 6.7297 Co. They are listing the displacement as 2.4 for someone reason. With as rich as its running e85 might not be good call.

I was wrong it's just an idle test they just make you Rev the car up to 2k RPM for the 2nd pass. I leaned out the afm a bit by adjusting the cog. To pass I need a 220 hc and a 1 CO. I was getting 279 HC and 4.9825 on my second pass.

Someone actually gave me that recommendation. I may do that if all else fails. I need to use the gas in my car and if no fix by then. I will do that as my tags are expired.

They also measure at about 2000rpm so it can't just be lean at idle. I set the timing to 10 btdc and I also tried 5 btdc. No dice. It has to be something else.

I know that vacuum line is fine, I checked. I will give a fuel pressure gauge a try tonight and see where that gets me.

That's the only two things that make sense. The injectors aren't but a year or two old. I cant figure out how to get the afm adjusted right eve with the documentation. I put a brand new cat in the thing two days ago and nothing.

So I'm having a bit of an issue getting my 280z with stock fi to pass emissions in Oregon and I can't seem to nail down the cause. On my last test I got Hc 279 and Co 4.9825. The hc is close but the CO is way off. Thus far I have gotten a new cat, adjusted the valves, replaced the plugs, changed the oil, change the cap and rotor, coolant temp sensor, changed the filter. Anyone have some insight on what I might be missing?

My new to me Work VS Mesh 17x9's with flipped lips so they are a -50 offset. Fender flares coming soon.