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i had a turbo jatco box built by a guy into the drag racing scene in WA he is a whizz with C4's and reckons the jatco has similar strength parts available(used a few parts out of a nissan patrol auto,extra clutches,different overdrive setup,etc) ,and as you mentioned,much better bearings the overdrive is the weak link,doesn't recommend shifting into it on full boost if you want the box to last he can't figure out why guys bother messing with the trimatics(traumatics as he calls them)in preference to the jatco if you don't want the overdrive he reckons stick with the jatco 3 speed out of earlier nissans

boost threshold is the point(rpm) whereby positive manifold pressure (boost) begins lag is the rate of rise of boost once you open the throttle many factors come into play in these equations,not the least of which is gearing/resistance an engine will build boost quicker(lower threshold and less lag) the more load it is under(due to a build up of heat in the exhaust side which in turn drives the turbine) so a heavier car,a taller gear,going up hill,towing something,etc it will also be more responsive with a smaller A/R turbine housing as the exhaust gas is driven at a faster velocity due to the smaller volume however if the compressor is forcing more air into the motor than the exhaust/turbine can flow(due to the restricted volume from the smaller A/R cover) then this leads to a build up of heat in the intake side due to backpressure which means you have to run less boost or detonation will result intercoolers and wastegates can help the above situations but are no substitute for matching the compressor and turbine flows to the eficiency/capacity of the engine this is part science and part art best way is to see what others have done and use this knowledge to pick what is right for you there is a good source of info about all things RB on www.skylinesaustralia.com most guys on there with RB25DET's that are running streetable GT35R's are using the 0.7 A/R compressor and 0.82 A/R turbine housings a properly designed tubular header has been seen to drop boost threshold by as much as 1000rpm compared to factory manifolds(see 6BOOST's threads on www.calaisturbo.com.au) hope this has helped some of you

i am no expert,but those internal trumpets all look the same size i would keep an eye on the individual spark plugs as you may find that some cylinders will be running lean (could go bang when you melt a piston on a lean cylinder) my CPC plenum has differing sized trumpets to even out the flow to each cylinder to compensate for differing distance from the intake air/fuel flow as i say i am now expert have a look at a site called www.calaisturbo.com.au ,particularly a member called ISL33P who makes CPC plenums....you may have to sign up to the forum but there is a wealth of RB turbo info on there paul western australia

if you are keen to take care of sales your end,i would consider filling up a 20 footer this end PM me if you are serious paul

i don't know why someone just doesn't ship a 20' container of rb30's AUS->USA so there are enough to go around for the right price

wheel dimensions?

make sure you are running a thermostat,or at least a restrictor plate, otherwise the water cycles too quickly through the radiator to transfer enough heat out of the system

haha in that case you won't mind me saying that these e-bay kits are sheislerbad,lots of stuff on turbomustang forum about nightmares of even getting bolt holes to line up and having to realign flanges for wategates and turbos to clear unless you can see a pic of these kits mounted up on an engine in an engine bay then it is a case of caveat emptor:cry2:

thanks guys my 240Z already has the RB30SOHC in it,so the twin cam head would be a walk in the park,however was wondering if it was worth the headache to switch over to the 2JZ-NA/T...as i have all the gear to turbo one already(including microtech ecu,550cc sard in jectors etc)

at a bit of a crossroads can't decide whether to modify my RB30 with a GTR head and single turbo or put in a 2JZ NA-T with a single i recently bought a supra with a 2JZ NA....boy are they a torquey motor,and that's without a turbo!!! let me know your thoughts cheers paul BTW going auto

couple of pics of the mexican

did you consider a mexican 302W block,presume they are not too thin on the ground in the US....i managed to pick a whole mexican longblock up for AU$200 in australia agree that if you keep it under 6000rpm it will hang together,bolt on a cheap masterpower T70 with a small hotside A/R and 500+hp is a walk in the park(with enough fuel,exhaust,etc) as well as being very responsive i find the late model stuff although technically engineered much better ends up costing way more once you try achieving above the factory ratings,the auto gearboxes(the manuals aren't usually designed to take too much more hp than std....there are some exceptions in the turbo cars eg nissan skyline and supras) tend to be an expensive nightmare that always require complicated electronic controlling will be following your progress,good luc

does that mean you will be selling the 15" autodrags? any chance you have a pic with the 8 1/2" on the rear as i would like to see the clearance to the metal wheel arch thanks paul

anyone selling a set of these rims to suit a 240Z????

just a couple of quick comments, the quality of the core is probably more important than the size.... larger,innefficient cores can contribute to lag as the air has to travel a greater distance keeping the pipework short is a good way to reduce lag sizing the pipework right allows for good air velocity which helps reduce lag(eg 3" in 2-1/2" out) most street cars will do fine with the hybrid type coolers readily available from asia garrett make some very good cores but they aren't cheap,the std nissan gtr(r33/r34)calsonic intercoolers are good for 500hp and are cheap(in australia anyway)but you have to modify the end tanks to fit in a stock Z nosecone

........ah well if you've lost it mike you are just going to have to give me your RB26DETT as compensation,lol seriously i will have to look in the garage for it....i'd better take a bag of breadcrumbs in with me to ensure i get back out!! paul

hey mike, you get around bet you wish you had taken the Z with you for those UNZUD roads:) when you get a chance on your return could you drop off that 280zx brake booster if you're finished with it....getting ready for the auto swap so i may as well throw it in cheers paul ps regards to valerie as well

no worries nick,good luck with the build,keep us posted and a few pics paul

i've got a standard RB30ET in my 240Z,the mounts were custom made and are as low as you could get...so not sure about the CMRS ones the point with the least clearance is the front corner of the intake plenum which fouls the bonnet by about 5mm you may get away with canting the engine over by adjusting the mounts but i simply put a 10mm alloy spacer between the crossmember and the body effectively giving me 10mm more clearance,it worked well and i have not had any adverse effects(not that i expected any) i am about to put in a new (++hp) motor and switching to an auto so will take the spacers out as i have a custom plenum and extractor manifold i will be selling the complete turbo engine(T3 turbo and motor done less than 2000km since rebuild)/box/mandrel bent exhaust/radiator/tailshaft/intercooler/wiring loom/ecu(i used a wolf 3d and custom loom but have the std uncut VLT setup to go) i am sticking to the SOHC head,they are not prone to cracking if you have a recycling system to ensure the coolant water remains free of air bubbles/cavitation,they are cheap(just got a free one),plentiful,you dont need multi coils(unreliable),aftermarket cams are cheap and plentiful,bit of porting makes a world of difference,not quite as torquey as DOHC but SOHC has more than you can get to the pavement in a Z,cams for DOHC heads are outrageously expensive anyhow let me know if i can be of any further assistance regards paul

many thanks PM'd you

surely someone somewhere has run them??

Is anyone running a set of centerline autodrags on the back of their 240/260Z??? I need to know if i can fit a set of 15 x 8" under the rear guards with standard guards and suspension,i beleive the backspace would be 4 1/2" or 4 7/8". I have done the measurements from theory and measured my car but really need to be absolutely sure before i order a set .....long way to return them from australia if i get it wrong Thanks in advance Paul

lpg is very popular in australia,has very good high performance turbo potential however a couple of obstacles to overcome if you are going to make the most of it you need to run twin mixers to supply enough gas for over 350hp,this means twin tanks or illegally running a second outlet from one tank or enlarging the single line you need to run either dedicated gas carbs(GRP over here) or gas injection(injectors not big enough for more than 60hp per injector) if it is going to be high performance tuneable ideally you need to run a stand alone ignition computer lpg over here is 100 octane(used to be 110 until greedy multinationals figured out they could mix it with cheap butane and make the same money off the public) currently our govt is giving 100% rebate for converting to LPG,it costs about 60c per litre as oppose to $1.40 for decent petrol.....so lots of incentive to make the move have a look on this forum for guys running RB30 turbo lpg in 3000lb cars doing 10 second 1/4 mile times http://www.calaisturbo.com.au only down side in a Z is tank placement,60L donut tank in the spare wheelwell is the tidiest but not a lot of range,other than this it's get out the oxy torch to make more room in the back where the fuel tank was keep us posted paul

they look like watanabes but not sure from the angle of the pic.....look in the wheels for sale section there are some up for grabs if they are watanabes you are after

i beleive that the quaife ATB is a great option for drag racing and street cars firstly it is a torque equalising mechanism(auto torque biasing-ATB i think) that does not rely on clutches as many lsd's do so is pretty consistent with use over time not requiring adjustment as you mentioned you don't get the binding of wheels in slow speed/tight turning maneuvers they have a full replacement/repair guarantee regardless of the application,ie drag/race the only application i would hesitate would be rallying where you are likely to lift a wheel on the rear....some may say the same in track racing as well,but that is likely to be rectified by suspension work if you are serious.....in this event the centre acts as an open wheeler as it cannot equalise the torque between the wheels as only one is driving at that point i paid considerably less for my ATB on this side of the world but not sure if these suppliers have a policy about not stepping on each others toes above info my personal opinion only good luck with it paul