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nissan patrol......all standard,neat as

by the time you add up all the anomalies in fitting an rb26 into a Z you may as well just go rb30/26...much easier

if only nissan had done it right in the first place eh?

i have a custom victor junior plumbed for injectors with a plenum and twin TB's for sale if you are interested

Can also supply these brass oil restictors for those that want to use them.Brass much better than the cheap mild steel Jun ones:grin: Can be supplied drilled to your personal specs as well at no extra charge. US$30 a pair including worldwide post.

CP make an ideal piston for the rb30det comes in at 8.2:1,they also make a 9.0:1 they are very good quality

we have a perfect one to suit your application that comes factory on a ford falcon XR6 turbo it is a garrett GT35r equivalent with a 1.06 a/r turbine housing,internally gated,T3 flange and a 0.50 a/r compressor housing they come up here quite often as new due to guys upgrading the factory turbo for their 4.0 litre ford motors

all rb25 variants run the short snout oil pump drive,this is ok unless you switch to the N1/gtr/RB26 oil pump so this crank collar is advised for all RB's except the r33/34 RB26's which already have factory long snout oil pump drives hope this clears up any confusion;-)

another option,freeze fit -10 fitting into the cam covers and then screw on your right angle fitting/hose on....voila

double post

i got my last RB30 for $50,it had just been rebuilt as well oh i forgot,you stateside guys didn't get the RB30,lol come to think of it neither did the rest of the world....including japan where they were made....go figure gotta love australia i still reckon the best motor for the Z is a turbo 302 windsor,guys on the turbo mustang forum are running 9/10's in full body LX stangs this combo is cheap,readily available,lots of aftermarket parts and best of all...very light if you use all the ali addons and just the cast iron block this is mine ready to go in a 260,will be ditching the supra 5 speed for a C4 and high stall tho

you used to be able to by adapter spacers to bolt the rb26 plenum to the rb25 head but most guys just by a Greddy for ease be warned ,a lot of those cheap copies are porous and not easily repaired the std rb25 intake can support 350hp as is,even more if ported and gives pretty even cfm per cylinder,i managed to fit a std rb30et engine in my Z so you should ??? be able to fit the rb25 one as the deck height is lower

consider my balls well and truly busted:icon52: what is the NICO forum?

haha Careless,you crack me up with your gastronomical descriptions green tea,batter,chocolate,peanut oil whenever i look at problem engines all i see is sh*t,lol

precisely,you need bigger breathers running into a catch can,the pcv valves are way too restrictive when upping the boost (think of it as twice the air flow into the motor requires twice the ventilation) especially on the rb covers that just run one vent valve (theres a guy on this rb forum that i posted in recently that discovered this,effectively the boost was pushing oil past the turbo shaft seals into the compressor/turbine and smoking out the exaust) i ran my breather pipes into a filtered catch can (filled with stainless steel pot scourers:icon52:)that was also vented to atmosphere via a K&N mini filter and ran a drain tube from the bottom of the catch can back into the sump this way there is no backpressure to slow the oil flow down,the stainless 'filter' prevents any oil spraying up and blocking the K&N filter and you don't have to keep checking that the catch can isn't full of oil i am no expert but i wouldn't be running the crankcase ventilation back into the intake side (under vacuum into the compressor) as i would be worried that the oil vapour may encourage detonation

I am not a business,just able to source these parts for any interested members if that's a drama ,remove the thread by all means,not trying to offend anyone

Wasn't able to edit my other post so hear is a mini version Problem 1) Cranks (other than RB26 in the r33 and r34) only have the small oil pump drive on the snout.So if you are running a GTR/N1 oil pump then the drive is almost certain to crack leading to grenading the whole engine. Solution- Fit a crank collar made out of machined 4140 steel.Your crank snout will need to be machined down to fit the collar over,it comes with a spec sheet for the dimensions and tolerances,just provide this to any competent machine shop as it is simple to do. Cost- US$100 per collar (one required) Problem 2) Excessive oil build up in the cylinder head starves the sump leading to spun bearings &/or catastrophic engine failure. Solution- Replace the core plug in the rear of the head with an interference fit -8 or -10 aluminum fitting and run a drain line back to the sump.To fit,put the fitting in some cling wrap and leave it in the freezer over night,remove the top core plug in the rear of the head,place a 19mm socket to protect the threads over the fitting and tap the shoulder in.Voila Cost US$50 per drain fitting (one required) Problem 3) Running higher than factory boost causes an excessive build up of crank case pressure in the cam covers often leading to a forcing of oil past the turbo into the intake tract,using excessive oil,causing detonation and smoking exhaust under boost. Solution- Proper ventilation of the crank case pressure by installing -10 oversize fittings and hoses in the cam covers. Cost US$50 per fitting (one-two required) If you are running a standard RB Turbo you may well not have any of the problems I have noted above...(although the forums are littered with tails of woe from guys with r32 RB26's that have spun bearings or lunched motors:icon11:) However if you have upgraded to a bigger oil pump,bigger turbo, bumped up the boost or like to drive your RB on the raggedy edge then the above mods are cheap insurance and peace of mind. To say that there are similar,possibly cheaper ways of achieving these mods by resourceful guys,but the above mods are well proven and guaranteed to fit and work for those who want a simple fix-it package. Orders over US$150 qualify for free worldwide shipping. Payment is by Paypal PM me if you need further info or want to order anything;-) Crank collar Oil drain fitting Cam cover fitting

bosch 044 do it once and do it right

i had a similar problem when i repowered my 240 with an RB30ET,was told the turbo seals were probably us and were allowing oil through to the intake side under boost.....so i went ahead and rebuilt the T3,the turbo guys said they had seen much worse seals that showed no signs of leaking.....sure enough i put it back together to find the problem was still the same finally i worked out that because i had doubled the boost,the breather in the rocker cover was causing pressure to build up....solution...fitted a catch can with obversize fittings and hose you could confirm if this is your problem by removing the oil filler cap,taping a rag over it to stop oil flying everywhere and taking it for a short drive under revs....if there is no smoke then you have found the culprit good luck and let us know what you turn up

Guys I am still away travelling until the end of the month,my wife kindly posted off the above orders for me Tuesday this week,let me know when they arrive cheers Paul

what's the problem,diameter of injector feed? there are many Sard injectors that fit the manifold but have varying diameter feeds...necessitating a custom rail,make sure you have the right part/injector number ps large Sard injectors often give trouble with idle quality depending on the ecu you are using,RB's not suprisingly work very well with Nismos

Guys I must apologise,there has been an over-run on another machine job and the parts won't be ready until later in the week when i am away. I have prepared all the postal arrangements and will get my wife to post the parts off to the 4 of you when she returns home in about 2 weeks(i will be away for a further 3 weeks after that) Once again apologies to amorfin,datsun dave,wg383 and careless btw here is a shot of the crank collar for those that asked

Garret GT35r,0.7 a/r comp,0.82 a/r turbine housing most popular choice over here for big hp street RB's however i would still make sure any turbo is going to clear the hood before going any further,it looks to mount too high to me

Garret GT35r,0.7 a/r comp,0.82 a/r turbine housing most popular choice over here for big hp street RB's

Update on orders Roostmonkey 2 x -8 fittings WG383 2 plus one crank collar-PAID Racinjitter 1 DatsunDave 1-PENDING amorfin 2 Careless 1-PAID Jonnyringo 1 thanks to those guys,should have the fittings in the mail to you early next week