Z24O

i would check the throttle body shafts,there are 6 seals that can deteriorate and leak...this commonly leads to erratic idle spray carby cleaner around them with the engine running and see if the idle rises

i would have thought that an rb20 head on an rb30 bottom end would be too restrictive the best bang for buck for offroad torque would be a turbo rb30e (ie na rb30 with a turbo kit added)oodles of off boost low end torque due to high compression with the added boost when under load not sure about kiwi land but in oz this combination could be thrown together for under $1000,proven to work well as long as you don't go over 1 bar of boost,very streetable with basement torque

if you want a compromise,disable the ignition(in cabin switch) crank until you see oil pressure,then start up

270cc if i am not mistaken

other than traffic standstill situations the best way to cool things down is to look at airflow air will take the path of least resistance so if there are gaps around your radiator eg between bonnet/hood and rad support panel,vent holes either side,radiator not sitting hard up against the support panel all the way around,etc then the air is not going through the rad to transfer the heat away (especially thick cores which increase air resistance look at sealing the gaps,adding ducting from the front of the car outside the grille area as mentioned an oil cooler is good....as long as it isn't in front of the rad as this defeats the purpose,ditto for intercooler but this is usually a bit tricky to relocate let us know how it goes paul

sure was,poor mans GTR:eek2:,but much better diff ratios for the street,same gearbox having said that^^^ most people i know with a real gtr end up poor maintaining their car:icon54:

the walbro pump has no where near the bosch 044 flow once the voltage drops below 14V and the line pressure rises both will probably work for you sometimes a few extra dollars in the right place is good insurance if your entire motor is a budget build then you could use use a budget pump but bear in mind lack of fuel when on boost motor goes bang you should have enough info and advice to make an informed decision now good luck

rb25de n/a came out awd in the r33 GTS-4 skylines.......auto only rb25det came out awd in the nissan stagea wagons.....auto only(i think) rb20det came out in the r32 skyline GTS-4....5 speed manual only

can't find the link but search for bosch specs on voltage and pressures with regards to fuel flow without ALL these specs for each fuel pump you can't really compare them or make an informed decision 14v at no back pressure is a meaningless specification to quote,if the pump manufacturer you choose can't provide the other specs then don't buy it with regard to the twin pump set-up,run two lines from the surge tank,one to each pump then "T" them into one line that goes up to the fuel rail don't forget the return line from the fuel rail to the fuel cell another point to bear in mind is that the high pressure fuel pumps are very inefficient at sucking,they tend to cavitate and overheat leading to premature failure,so make sure you mount them below the outlet of the fuel cell so they are not working against gravity lastly running twin pumps is cheap insurance in a big HP turbo application as it is very unlikely they will both fail simultaneously.....losing fuel pressure when on boost is certain to lead to a melted piston:nono:also useful to run a fuel pressure gauge to see what is going on when you set the system up

i second the bosch 044 idea,but i would use 2 of them for 600hp bosch pumps maintain very good flow across a wide voltage range....some other pumps look good flow wise until you look at a graph as voltage drops below 14v and then it can almost halve around 12v i would also use a surge tank/swirl pot off the main tank to ensure you never starve the pump/s lastly i would get a sparky to rewire the fuel pumps from a direct power source, with a relay and heavy duty cable,to maintain maximum voltage oh and for injectors you can't go past Nismo for the RB26's,extremely good injectors with very even fuel atomisation,great for tuning and idle once you go to big injectors ie 600cc+ you can have real trouble with the idle,i believe sards are renowned for this as they are mainly compromised to provide top end flow.....bit like a fire hose,great for large jets at high pressure but becomes a dribble when you try to shut it down to a fine mist and lastly the Nispro fuel pressure regulators are still retained by quite a few big hp GTR's in Japan,along with the standard fuel rails....speaks volumes i reckon and they are pretty reasonably priced

would you be interested in my Maserati Merak,registered in WA with a mid mount 350 chev,5 speed transaxle it's a classic italian muscle car now:burnout: may even be able to work out a deal whereby you can keep both kidneys

RB rods a better option

i had the same problem with the 350sbc in my maserati merak the engine was made to run backwards not sure how easy this would be to do with an RB26 but i am sure it's possible

very informative thread matt thankyou

i'll sell you a photocopy mike:icon10: only kidding

thanks mate

i wouldn't mind a copy dave let me know what it will cost me to perth,western australia cheers paul

that's nice work,especially like the fuel delivery setup,very neat unfortunately can't help with the question but would like to know myself maybe mike rowe will pitch in?

how much room is there between the top of the EFI intake manifold and the hood? could you run the GT40/explorer intake being about an inch or so higher? bring on the pics!!!

you won't get a brace to fit with the std intake on an rb25det in a 240/260z,not one that goes directly between the front strut towers anyway

looks quality mike what was it worth?

so there you have it guys ^^^^ proving everyone is entitled to an opinion.......but only you can make up your own mind and that is precisely why i have the oil restrictors available,i personally wouldn't use them (for reasons I've mentioned) but a few guys have asked about them so they are available too vive la democracie

not sure i agree with all of the above,however i did find it a bit confusing,so maybe i got the wrong end of the stick there are plenty of guys in Oz with short snout drives that have cracked standard rb26 oil pump drives with disastrous and expensive consequences,and these aren't track/drag cars either (maybe it's our long straight roads,do you guys in japan ever find a road that you can actually open an RB26 up on:rolleyesg,maybe that's why they last so long) with regard to G forces,i don't know about you guys but 11 seconds of pulling G's is about as much as i can take on one change of underwear by all means get a properly baffled sump.....it all helps i have personally seen many rb26 head components damaged by restricting the oil flowing to the head,the drain seems to make more sense and there have been no adverse effects with this mod to date at the end of the day,these mods are a bit like insurance....may never need it,but may regret not having it at some stage in the scheme of the cost and inconvenience of a rebuild i'll let individuals decide.....me i can save $100 elsewhere for those guys who ordered and paid,i will be sending them out tomorrow

not so sure you will control boost spike with an internal wastegate on a 450HP motor with a T3 turbo? you will get much better boost control with an appropriately sized external wastegate,plus have the flexibility if you decide to up the HP later on. Masterpower make a pretty good plain bearing turbo,not sure if they do internal gate though,should be pretty cheap as they are made south of the border

hi mike i believe that the drama with the rb26's is the location of the pickup when you use a sump suitable for the Z's the rb30 came out std with front and rear hump sumps to suit various models the nissan patrol one is the sump to use to fit in a Z best of all.....i found this one in a skip doesn't that just sh1t you:mrgreen: