78 LS2 Z

I'm already #4 on the list.....and BTW they are looking great so far, I think I shorted out my keyboard from drooling on it (looking at the progress pic).. Keep those updates coming!

They would sell for sure... Cable, just in case you don't make more than 5...... I'm #4!

Glad I waited on headers and cam! I definitely see some stainless sparks flying out from under my Z in the near future! Let's see some ground clearance pics with the prototype installed.....Not like it would be a problem for me, i'm in. Have you thought of offering ceramic coated steel as an option? Woohoo, Finally, some real headers. Shorties just suck........

I'm in for sure....(Gr8White) Great news Cable!

Spare wheel well must be cut out and a new tank support frame must be welded in into cradle the F body tank. I used 2 x 1 x .120 wall tubing for my support frame (probably overkill). My primary reason for switching tanks was to run dual exhaust with the compatibility(EFI LS2) being a bonus. You can even use the Z filler with the 98-02 tanks using some Gates 90 and 45 degree elbows with some creative splicing. I also used the 2 x 1 tubing to help reinforce my frame where the spare tire well was removed. There are many other's with this swap and there are pics available on this site. I believe I saw this in the fabrication/welding forum....If you can't locate some pics I can get you some of my swap.

Amen to that, the 315 tire mentioned on a 9" wheel would be like putting a motorcycle tire on a kid's bike wheel. It would look about as bad as it is functional. People still do it however.

That's a question that simply can't be answered- and probably belongs in another forum but if you are thinking wide street tires alone will allow you to hook up 600 rwhp (assumed RWHP) in a 2600 lb tin can, you are probably going to be dissapointed. That car would be capable of high 9's at better than 140 mph traps; getting anywhere close (I'm talking seconds here) to that kind of number puts a premium on planning. It's really no different than building an engine. Without planning the purpose and components needed to accomplish your goal, your results won't be worth the effort. This is off point a bit, but if you haven't driven a 600 hp car then I would suggest getting some seat time in a comparable vehicle and see what it's like. If I were in your shoes I would lower my horsepower aspirations, spend the difference in the proper suspension components to get it to the ground without breaking. In the end you will have a far more satisfying car. Go ask the 1000 hp Supra guys at the strip how they feel about getting smoked by a 400 hp car that is properly set up to the task at hand...Sure they will be reeling you in, but what's the difference in 2 bus lengths vs. 1 1/2 bus lengths? Unless you are at the salt flats you are in for a long night (assuming you don't leave after the 2nd pass!). If you don't care about traction or occasional strip use then you will probably be fine with your plan- You probably won't see any component breakage because you are never going to be hooking up.

Mine is a 78, so ditching my bumpers were my first order of business! Not gonna happen with the YZ flares, these are essentially replacement panels for your rear 1/4 panel.....John Washington would be your contact at Reaction Research, great guy and I can vouch for the quality of his parts. He is reputable with a very good name on this site. He also offers excellent support after the sale. Cheaper is not always better, "cheap" and "fiberglass" are usually two words I avoid when used in the same context.

Do a search for "YZ" flares and you'll get all the info you need. These will serve your purpose.

Those are definitely the Black Dragon steel flares they sell for around $400 a set. I have been told that the Black Dragon flares are merely cut VW bug flares....might look into pricing the VW flares and cutting these down if you have some fabrication skills, they are surely cheaper than the BD stuff... BTW, the advertised 3" additional clearance is BS, it's more like a 1" to 1 1/2" flare; You would be hard pressed to get more than a 275 width tire under these flares. If that's enough then they will be fine.

I know we are beating a dead horse but geesh, it seems like someone could step up and offer good long tube headers for the JCI kit that aren't so cost prohibitive. The market is there, we have proven that. I'm OK for making power elsewhere and have pretty much resigned myself to JCI or JTR headers. It's awful hard to justify $1200-$1500 on a set of custom headers when you can do a cam/spring swap for less than half of that and gain more power. Frustrating for a gear head, it's like wanting to fish below a lake, knowing that the fish are there and ready to catch but the damned Corps of Engineers won't open the spillway. I don't even care about the ground clearance issues (to a point of course) and would be more than willing to scrape the ceramic off mine on a speed bump just to have them... I don't want to sound like I'm hijacking the thread but I think that one of the primary reasons for most people to even contemplate a different kit than the JCI setup is because of limited choices in the header department. That seems to be true in this case, again.....

FYI, the TPS can be adjusted by loosening the screws and rotating. The best voltage is about 0.985 for these; performance wise. You can dremmel out the holes in the TPS slightly to give more adjustment. Probe the 2 voltage output wires and rotate it until you get the right voltage. You can usually get at least .40V of adjustment. The TPS was not bad at .86V and the car should run fine between .7v and 1.0 volt. Ford computers tend to "stack" codes as a chain reaction to a single problem and they can be a bit misleading(speaking from my own personal experience). It's likely something very basic, make sure you did a good job with the throttle body cleaning. Inconsistent problems can be very frustrating. I would check for vacuum leaks again with some starting fluid in the engine bay. Good luck.

My point has nothing to do with the type of supercharger, it is the argument of a turbocharger vs. a supercharger. My centrifugal comments were nothing more than an example of how good a supercharger can be. The GM supercharger is not a centrifugal supercharger, it is a positive dispacement supercharger. As far a there being room for argument, there is simply no cut and dry answer to which is better. Merely stating that the centrifugal is just a belt driven turbo is far from accurate. There are many more parts with a turbo setup and parts break. Ask any tuner what is easier to tune and the centrifugal blower will usually take the nod. Either can be made in a more favorable light given the purpose of your build. As far as the aftermarket tunability and upgrading goes, ever heard of a cog? Custom tunability is not optional with a turbo, it's mandatory and you better know what you are doing. Optional is not bad, it's good. My YSi centrifugal blower puts 750hp to the wheels with a bone stock Mustang 89 processor, tuned through a timing light, fuel pressure and injector only. Would you rather be at your laptop figuring out a tune after every run or shut the hood, forget about it and race? I have hundreds of passes with this combo and zero issues. It hasn't been on a dyno since the base tune 3 years ago. That's on a slipping 8 rib belt too, no cog.

I'd like more power, but I also need therapy. Yup, even with a centrifugal supercharger it's pretty steady. My YSi trim vortech in my Stang has a power and torque curve that is instant and straight across the paper, no matter what RPM you start the pull. If it were a cardiogram the patient would be very dead...... Try that in a turbo. In fact, my torque and power are nearly identical at every part of the powerband, you almost can't tell which line is which...Makes for a very predictable, consistent and satisfying car. Once you get to a certain power level (and any power level to a point), predictable is a very good and necessary thing IMO. Anyways, back to the point- I think you are right, you don't see V8 turbos in OEM applications for a reason. Superchargers are a blast. I used to own an 01 Lightning that was a real hoot.

I think in the Vette's case this is all to do with packaging. Intercooling packaging is easier too with the charger. Sure, these are relatively inefficient but they tend to be easier to tune and are less fickle than the turbo setups. Heat is a big issue too. Point is that you can make a good case for either power adder and the point of "relative" inefficiency of a supercharger is made moot by simply spinning the thing to get the desired power level. Ask the top fuel guys if they feel supercharger efficiency is an issue. I don't think either is superior to the other, just different.

Much better than the original IMO. Very nice.