jonus079

hey i used to have an SA200 pipeline welder just like the one in the last picture....loved that thing btw i checked out your other project and wow that looks good! the grill is a work of art (especially after you chorme it). if you put 1/2 the effort into your z im sure it will be a very nice car. great work!

just wondering if you got the engine in or test fitted yet. id love to see some pictures of how it fits. spring break is coming up in about 3 weeks. i hope to atleast test fit my engine.

in most cases they use a tig or stick welder mated with a spool gun. its rare to see a true mig welder welding aluminum (by true mig i mean the wire is stored in the welder case).

thats how i did it. i used 1/4 inch plates onthe firewall. i also used 1/8 inch sheetmetal behind the cowl to tie it into the dash. i had to do it like this because the intake on the engine im using is very tall (im not even sure ill be able to fit it under the hood).

thanks for the comment. yes that turbo is big! cant wait to hear it spool.

man i seems like this swap is getting popular. i too planned this starting about a year ago. slight diffrences though.. im running garrett GT4082 turbo fully aeromotive fuel system 44# injectors 3.90 R200 t56 trans i made my own harness and am using hptunner to set up the computer. iv already purchased almost all the engine and fuel system parts and so far so good. Iv also dont almost all of the metal work but im a school right now so it prolly wont be done until late summer (or atleast running). please post some pictures of your setup when things start moving along. i have heard of alot of people trying this set up but havent seen one complete. i dont mean to jack you thread but here are some pictures of the progress on my z 1972 240z with 2 X 6 frame rails. fully tig welded. and now...the powerhouse....(notice the A1000 fuel pump and regulator)

god bless that little r200

holly....

veryone is always asking how my power can the r200 take? well why dont we see what people are running. i know its torque that kills the diff but i cant figure out how to post 2 polls. lets put it in terms of hp. posting your torque numbers will help.

best $17,000 I ever saved lol good one

yummm

yuckkkkkkk

here are some progress pictures of my 240z. coming along nicely. the frame is 1.5X4 inch steel and the bars are 1 OD (1/8 walls). everything is fully tig welded. thinking about putting in a roll cage and still working on the k frame forgive the large pictures size.

ahh didnt put the "-" in

ok heres my idea. using 1 inch OD (1/8 inch walls) tubing i want to make a sort of subframe system illustrated below. it would tie into my subframe connectors (2X6 rectangle tubing) which should make the front ende super strong. also its all tig welded for additional strength (i <3 my miller maxstar!) what do you guys think?

i've been looking for a while for some pictures custom made k frame but havent really turned up anything. i used the search and either came up with to many result with nothing that helped or to little results with something completly diffrent. im curious to see what some of you have come up with for the front end with big horsepower. i have some ideas of my own that i will prolly be fabing up tomarrow.

i thought so too. here some other info that my help you choose which block to use. my car will have a turbo so it will get really hot. the iron blocks expand much less it seems. hope im not posting them to big. these are all from my ls1/genIII V8 service manual.

iv always wondered, well this picture answers everything..

that looks like a pritty nice set up. how far back is the cross member from the front of the diff? and where is it in relation to the original cross memeber?

the motor going in is a 2003 5.3l lm7 engine so it fuel injected. i also have the ls1 fuel rails ill be using. it will use an10 lines up to the from the pump to the y block, an8 lines into the rails and to the regulator, then an an6 return after the regulator. the entire system is gunna be fuel hungry. also your right, the a1000 pump is not designed to pull. the manual pritty much says, the lower the better. i think im gunna go with location A because i dont want to risk leaning out and damaging the engine. i was also think about using the fuel tank drain for the supply line. iv heard good and bad things about this set up but i htink it will work well.

is there a reason why all i see is a bunch of weird writing at the site?

if i put it in position A, i would put it a little higher than the pictures shows to protect it. as for position B, what you said is exactly what i wanted to hear. my friend runs the paxton version of the same pump and he as well as others tell me it has to be lower than the lowest part of the tank while others tell me its ok to be alittle higher....its confusing...

finally got around to working on the z this thanks giving weekend. gutted the interior and pulled out the I6. so im throwing around some ideas on where to put the pump. the pump im using is an aeromotive A1000 fuel pump. there are 2 locations im thinking about putting it. location A: where the floor pan ends (as shown below) Pros: lower than the lowerest part of the tank Cons: not very close to the tank location B: right beside the gas tank (as show below) Pros: very close to the tanks Cons: not very low, ill have to drive around with atleast 1/4 tanks at all times. So far locations A seems the best. anyone have any other suggestions? any input would help. btw did i tell you guys what i have planned for my z?? well ill give you a hint, i wont be using the t28 in the picture below.

acutally now that i think about it, it was a 235 eagle f1 tires on 17X7.

thats a pritty good deal, especially if you just want to the back 2 wheels wider..why run a 9.5 on the front? i ran a 225 on a 7 and thats plenty wide for front tires.