Boy from Oz

Sorry about the JTR and JCI info. I was some time ago and I got the info a bit confused. I figured I was too old the try laying on my back and juggling a transmission on my chest and knees, so a mechanic friend did it at his workshop. Absolutely no dramas. He removed the transmission first and then the bell-housing. Had to replace the flywheel, clutch and pressure plates, and slave cylinder as a complete package. He had trouble bleeding the system so I have the car back home and will fit a new M/C when one arrives.

JCI = John's Cars Inc. Also known as Jags that Run and Broken Kitty. I'm wanting to know if the t56 will foul on the transmission tunnel if I attempt to slide it off the LS1 ?

Any dramas removing a t56 with JCI mounts, I need to replace the clutch? Thanks

Yes, yes, yes... A chap down here is close to painting and asked me my thoughts on the blue/white stripe. I wasn't in favour as I thought it more associated with Cobras but when I took time to examine the white nose/single stripe I must say I'm now very much in favour. Well done to both of you for thinking outside the box.

This is the key. Who are your clients/customers? What's their likely taste/style? Do your run Crazy John's $2 shop, an emporium or a fine arts store?

Looking forward to the photos. I think there are a few still lurking around here (Michelle, Dick, et al) who have been through the GTO build process and would be willing to offer well-intentioned opinions. As shown in the past it might assist in preventing you reinventing the wheel.

Interesting. Do you know which kit it is and what's the Nissan shell like?

Very interesting Jeff, keep the images and info coming. I'm largely self-taught (through trial & error) about fibreglassing so I'm keen to soak up any information.

Nicely presented car coming up for auction. https://www.mecum.com/lots/HA0419-372225/1962-datsun-260z/

No worries Jeff. I think my project gave me a fibreglass addiction. My current project has an entirely fibreglass body. I love the smell of resin in the morning!

Jeff, trimming the forward edge of the door will simply mean the edge moves in a more forward arc during opening. If the forward edge is extended, rather than cut, it will tend to rotate inward rather than forward. The edge should be forward of the axis of the hinge pin. Here is another rather straightforward mod you may want to consider.If you are trying to create the appearance of a longer front guard (wing, fender) try repositioning narrower vent slots rear-ward. I think it worked somewhat on mine. My doors were a major undertaking but as prototypes I expected that. It you want information on how I would go about it again let me know. Basically I purchased fibreglass doors and chopped 50mm off the top and 50mm above the crease in the panel, that was between the lower hinge mount position and the bottom edge of the door structure. I left them original at the 'A' pillar and kind of hide the change of height with the rearview mirror. I also made the outer skin removable (like newer VWs) so I can adjust it to match the front guard (wing, fender) and the rear panel. Sorry for the rant.

Great to see such rapid progress. A couple of questions; Did you reattach the the rear turret cross-member or did you recreate something new? A novel and seemingly practical approach either way to create a larger window opening. You lost me a bit with the comment on the need to modify the 'A' pillar. Down here the 'A' pillar is the windscreen pillar and I don't understand any need to alter it? Keep us posted.

Jeff, they are a couple of very impressive examples, I'm anticipating something special from you on the GTO. You seem to have a similar issue with modification limits as we have down here. Stretching the wheelbase (a la 'chelle') would require extensive testing and re-engineering approval.

Welcome Jeff. Always great to have a new member and vehicle. I'm fascinated by the prospect of a 250 SWB kit. Although it sounds like it was some time ago I'm sure we would all appreciate any information and photos you may have. Thanks.

With everything done to the bodywork that I'm prepared to do, the time came for the final painting. The original light coating - to seal the primer while a 12 month assessment was carried out - was rubbed back. Final coats applied Then rubbed back with 1000, then 2000 and finally 3000 grit wet-n-dry. I'd pushed my luck about as far as I was game by this stage so I engaged a professional car-detailer to do the final buffing. Really pleased with the outcome.