Boy from Oz

A VZ Ute actually (see album). I picked up a cheap 1996 diff (3.07 ratio and pre LS1) just to play around with and then got the donor car diff (3.46 ratio). There appears to be very little difference in the casings but the input yokes are quite different. These diffs have been around for a long time.

Many of the bigger diffs discussed on Hydrid Z are hard to find in Oz and the CVs etc even harder. When I bought my donor LS1/t56 wreck (see album) I thought it would make sense to use the LSD diff as well, providing it would fit. There are many practical advantages to using the GM diff down here and they have a great array of ratios as well. I made up two very straightforward pieces, a moustache bar and a diff housing bracket, and today I fitted them for the first time. I couldn't believe how well they fitted - but wait there's more. Without any prior consideration I also refitted the two vertical link mounting braces - perfect clearence. The rear cross piece just needed a smidgin taken off the edge of the horizontal surface where it touched the the diff cover. Then on went the original diff front mounting member - perfect clearence on the universal joint (rubber donut). I now have to design a front mounting bracket and I'm there - hopefully. I plan on using the GM CVs and will need to make an adaptor for the companion flange to the outer CV. I am running an extra-wide rear track so I'm uncertain at this stage whether I will need shorter axle shafts. I first mentioned using the diff on this thread but progress has been very slow. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124522&highlight=%27gm+diff%27 Sorry for the grotty looking suspension bits - I want to make sure it all fits before powdercoating.

This new approach has recently been posted on the S30 brake sticky but just in case you missed it. There is a chap here in Oz who has designed a new bracket for the Wilwood rear set-up which includes the parking brake. He is finalising the cable arrangement prior to conducting some performance tests. If all goes well he will start taking orders. http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=2192&fullsize=1

And replace it with what? How does that song go "There's a hole in the bucket dear Lisa, dear Lisa..."

Does anyone know how to remove the strut tube from bearing housing (hub) without damaging the tube? There appears to be a couple of weld runs on the bottom and I was wondering if I ground away the welds could I then press the tube out.

I have moulds (Oz spelling) for the covers and I have a template for the trims. I had several attempts to make the rounded trims and found it just too difficult but the flat trims are no problem. You can make them either in steel and have them plated or in aluminium (Oz spelling) and polish them. I've research the trims fairly thoroughly and I don't think there is a 'correct' style. The rounded style is used on most road 250 models and other Ferrari of the period but many of the restored 250 GTOs have the flat style.

Small world. In reading this revived thread I was pleasantly surprised to see it was started by someone in Oz, albeit in 2002. The details started to sound familiar and I remembered this is the car featured in posts #184 & #187 in the 250 GTO Owners thread when it sold at auction. http://www.shannons.com.au/pages/auctions/lot.jsp?id=O391PAR7BLNB0R80# Re: the Ferrari injunction against McBurnie - In Kit Car (Aug '89) it refers only to the McBurnie California Daytons Spyder, there is no mention of the 250 GTO. The article states; "As a consequence of the decision a permanent injunction was initially issued against McBurnie Coachcraft Inc, and Tom McBurnie which prohibited Tom from manufacturing, selling or distributing the McBurnie California Daytona Spyder...". It's all water under the bridge now but there may never have been a direct injunction on the 250 GTO kit.

Congratulations to all, 500 posts on this thread. Rather fitting that either the prince or princess of replicas, 'Speedracer' or 'chelle' reach that milestone. Thanks 'Duke' for initiating the thread. Interesting to note the thread on partners-family etc of Hydrid Z members has around half the number of posts – I’ll leave you to draw your own conclusions on that! I’ve been fitting the running gear during the last six months so I’ve not had too many question related to the 250 GTO but the advice in the past has been invaluable. The 50th anniversary of the 250 GTO will be in 2012. It’s some way off I appreciate but I wondered if replica owners couldn’t at least start thinking of getting together then. A couple of suggestions might be a Mille Miglia Tour package with a trip to Modena, the Goodwood Festival of Speed or perhaps a less expensive option (for some) of the Knotts Berry Farm Show. Knotts would have the added benefit of having actual replicas there - it might motivate some to hang on to their cars a little longer or for others to complete their builds by a set date. Any initial interest? http://www.classiccartoursinternational.co.uk/tours/italy/mml/ http://www.goodwood.co.uk/site/content/festivalofspeed/

Yep, you are right, they do sound much funnier afterwards. Mine is a motoring story rather than a Z story so firstly my apologies about that. About 30 years ago we drove a VW across Australia. Coming back we got around halfway when the crankshaft decided to become a two-piece crank. After waiting a day and one half beside the car (survival rule #1) a truck finally stopped to help. We attached a rope to the back of the truck and to the beetle and took off. If you are not familiar with trucks that travel in outback Oz let me give you brief description. They have one prime-mover but they have multiple trailers, we call them road trains and I think they are LCVs in Canada and Triples in the USA, you probably get the idea - point is, we were rather a long way back from the driver, but not to worry we only had 100 klms to the next town. The first surprise we got was just how fast these rigs travel – 60 mph. The second thing we noticed was dark brown spots appearing on the windscreen. The third and most disconcerting thing we noticed was where the spots were coming from – sheep! Each trailer had about 150 sheep, all a little nervous about going to market and all appeared to be suffering bowel stress. First response was to hit the wipers – I don’t need to detail the efficacy of 6 volt wipers that are not being charged. After about six cycles the windscreen just became a brown smear and the wipers stopped. Second response was to stick my head out the window to see where I was going. This simply removed any barrier between the sheep and my face. In desperation I tried to steer out from behind the trailer and toot the horn and flash the VW headlights at the driver. The state of the battery rendered the horn useless and the layers of faeces on the headlight doomed this option also. To spare you the murky details we eventually made it, however, it did as they say, leave a bad taste in my mouth for quite some time. Over several days seven different drivers (none carrying livestock!) towed us nearly 1500 klm to Sydney and didn’t charge us a cent – it was very pleasing to see from Lukaniuk's tale that generosity amougst the motoring community is not yet dead. Hope I’m not seen as hijacking this thread but Lukaniuk’s post brought back this motoring memory.

I intend to run Castrol R, primarily on special occasions - it's expensive and has a short life but oh that smell. Probably the second most recognised aroma from the 60s. http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/r/R30_40_M_B861.pdf

Mike - I was worried that with a RHD the wheel arch might intrude into the firewall but it is completely flat - as are all 240Z - D'oh. After I detach the pedal from the donor car bracket I will be able to attach it to the firewall just like yours. I hadn't really thought about it before but like you stated, how much easier are the four wire compared to all the brackets, linkage and cables. The sharing of information on this site is fantastic. Thanks.

Primarily I'm just trying to use as much of the donor car as I can in the belief (hope) that all the bits talk to each other.

Thanks Mike, that's very encouraging and I hope it's applicable to RHD cars as well. I would really appreciate some photos if at all possible. My original hope to use all the pedals proved useless - as Scottie states, there is no way they will fit. I'm still holding out hope that the GTO/Ute brake booster and master cylinder can be adapted.

Can anyone provide information and photos of their drive-by-wire set up. Did you adapt the Z throttle pedal or fabricate a new arrangement? Any other drive-by-wire installation advice welcome. Thanks

260DET - I hate to say this but the ACT engineer is correct. It is the opinion of the Australian Motor Vehicle Certification Board that adaptors are spacers and therefore not allowed. Believe it or not this was discussed at the last Board meeting and was agreed to. Porsche have them as standard but that in no way legitimises them for any other application. I wish it was otherwise; would have saved me a lot of time, effort and money.

I'm planning on widening the rear track by up to 50mm per side. Plan A is to lengthen the transverse link with 'a structurally sound' insert and then to rebore the strut insert location in the bearing housing, at an altered degree, sufficient to bring the top of the strut back to the OEM mounting point while maintaining zero camber. My car's need is largely cosmetic as I'm building a 250 GTO and I want to use relatively narrow 7" rear wheels yet fill out those huge guards. Edit - There was a Plan before Plan A, it was to relocate the inner transverse link location points further outboard but the fabrication required turned out to be too involved - for me anyway.