trwebb26

I want to remove the heater from my 78' 280z. This includes the blower, air lines, wiring, controls, etc. It doesn't have A/C so I don't have to worry about that. My question is about the two heater hoses running from the front-right side of the engine. I will not need them anymore. Assuming I'm not using water for anything else (I'm not using an IAC or TB with water running through it) - do I just plug up both of the holes... or do I have to connect the outlet to the inlet using some heater hose? What size metric pipe plug will I need? Thanks

Does the new MS v3.0 board have good enough rev limit control - or should I get the MSD 6AL box (instead of the MSD6A) to help with the rev limit control?

Hey everybody... I'm rewiring my 280z for megasquirt. I'm planning on completely removing the old ECU. Does anybody know what all of the wires leaving the ignition relay do? I would like to know what they all do - but I am most curious about the white wire with the black stripe. Thanks! Tim

Great!!! Thanks for the info. I'm all set to buy my megasquirt from RS-Autosport: http://www.rs-autosport.com/#mshardware I do have a couple more questions before I take the plunge: 1) Their website says that units come with a 3.0 bar map sensor standard (from RS-Autosport). Anybody know why this is different than the ones from DIYAutotune.com that come with a 2.5 bar sensor standard (they are both from B&G)? 2) I'm going to go ahead and get the wire. I figure 360' of labeled wire at the correct guage is worth the $50. 3) I'm planning on buying the IAT and CTS sensors off of the website. Are they reasonably priced ($20 a piece)? 4) Do I need the tach input to be "Hall/Opto" or "VR"??? That part is very confusing to me. 5) Is there a recommendation for a wideband O2 system? 6) The list of sensors: - 83' Turbo ZXT Dizzy w/ built in CAS - IAT w/ plug - CTS w/ plug - 240SX TB w/ TPS - Wideband O2 (Heated O2 sensor) - New plugs for stock injectors (bosch) - A handfull of relays and fuses Am I missing anything? 7) Is there a FIdle solonoid on the Z??? I can't find anything on how to hook this up in the old posts. Do I have it all covered? Thanks again for all of the help!

Bump!

Nobody is responding to my post either... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105873

is there a specific year or engine code I should be looking for when I pick up one of these on ebay? I've seen writeups for the KA24DE model, but there are KA24E models from 1990 that look very similar. Does the throttle body have to come with the cruise control part, too? Everybody talk about cutting off the cruise control part, but the KA24E that I saw didn't have it. Please straighten me out!

So it looks like I'll be buying a MS w/ version 3 hardware and an upgraded 3.0 bar map sensor. I'll be using the MSnSE software (no MSII daughterboard). I'm really curious about what to do about the ignition system. Will I need the HEI? What other parts would you get if you had an open checkbook? (MSD, try to run EDIS, etc?) Thanks for your help!

Ok... I have a 78' 280z with a running engine. There will be a rebuilt 83' ZXT motor going in the car next year. I want to add megasquirt to my existing 280z and get the bugs worked out before I drop in the fresh motor with a new T3/T4. I think this makes sense because I will be using the intake manifold off of my 280z on the new motor. I've read every megasquirt forum entry there is on this webpage - and a lot of other stuff. I'm not sure I understand it all, yet. I want to buy the Megasquirt v3 for these reasons (which may or not be correct): - it has driver for coil so I won't need an HEI module - it has fidle output (even though I'm not sure if I need it) - it supports Low Impedence injectors so I don't need the silly flyback resistor board. - It comes with a built in 3.0 bar MAP sensor. That should handle all the boost I'll ever need. - ??? Is this a correct decision? I also don't think that I need the MSII daugherboard because I will get more use out of the MS&SE that comes standard on the V.3 board. Correct? I have an 83 dizzy (distributor I assume?) with the required CAS. I've hear some ramblings about going distributorless? I know a lot of people run MSD6a units. Money really is no object - I'm really looking for "the ultimate setup" for reliability, tunability, and engine compartment neatness. Should I just use the distributor I've got - or should I look for something more? If you had an open checkbook to make a megasquirt ignition - what would you get? I'm a big fan of a tidy install. I've read that the relay/fuse block isn't that great. I'm definately capable of the wiring. Everybody please chime in here. I think that is enough for now. Thanks to everybody in advance for all the help! I'm looking forward to megasquirt!

So the bolts are underneath the car? I'm used to FWD cars where you can service the shift lever all inside the car.

How do you remove the shift lever from an 83' ZXT (T-5) tranny? There is a screw just to the passenger side of the lever? Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. Anybody else have suggestions for the parts?

Oh... and I've read the writup on what is required for the swap. I guess I'm just a little overwhelmed. Do I just start unplugging stuff and figure it out later? Are any of the wires coming out of the fuse box on the right side required for the swap??? Thanks

I just picked up my 83' 280ZXT Donor Car from Member "Lewis Maudlin" last weekend. I now have BOTH garage spaces in my house taken up with Z's. Of course I don't mind, but my wife is a different story. I need to get it parted out ASAP before it gets cold. What should I keep off of the car for the swap, and what should I pull off to sell on ebay. I have a 78' 280Z with a 5-speed. Stuff to keep for my car: - CV axles - Rear Brakes - Brake Master Cylinder - Engine w/ Intake, coil, MAS - Exhaust (???) - Tranny (T-5) - Computer - Wiring Harness - Driveshaft My main concern is that I will have the carcass hauled off and there will be something I need in it. Is there anything on a frame rail that I need? Have I listed everything I'll need for the swap or that will be an upgrade for my 78' 280z? Stuff to Sell: - All emblems - Tail Lights - Fuel Pump - Guage Cluster - Guages - Wheels & Center Caps (swastika wheels) - Diff - Front calipers (???) Have I missed anything that somebody will want? Thanks for the replies!!!

Can I just take off the BCDD? Does the 240SX throttle body have a BCDD? This would be a good reason for me to upgrade.

Thanks.... I'll check that out tomorrow. One more thing. Does the "HAZZARD" light always stay on? Mine does - whether the hazzard lights are on or not?

Tonight I took my newly acquired 78' 280Z out for its first test drive. It had a surging problem where you'd come to a stop and the rpms would go up to ~2500 for about 3 seconds and then drop back down to normal. Any ideas???

Thanks for the pic Zerrari!!!

The 260 Tank Looks like a 240 tank. The 280 tank is pretty much box shaped with no big hump on the passenger side. Thanks for the pic anyways. Anybody have a pic of a 280 tank???

I recently took my gas tank to have it "renu'd" Before I left the guy's shop - he ripped off the pieces of rubber on top of the tank. I still have them - and I am planning on gluing them back on, but I need some pictures so I can get the locations correct. Please post any pic you have of the 280z gas tank with the rubbers on it so I can get them put back where they belong. Thanks! Tim

I'm the "sucker" who bought the 280Z that "heavy85" (see above) was speaking of. Just got it and have located the problem - bad fuel system (bad fuel pump control relay and a seriously rusty gas tank). I fixed the relay and put the send/return lines in a gas can. It runs like a raped ape!!! Now on to fixing up the gas tank so I can actually drive it!

I've recenly posted about my woe's with my "new" Z's fuel issues. In short... I have a rusty tank, cracking fuel lines, broken vent lines, and a pump that doesn't pump. The solution - all new fuel system. - I'm going to take my tank to have it renu'd next monday. They will be putting in a 1/2" pickup tube and a larger 3/8" return in the process. - I've purchased the GSL392 Walbro external fuel pump (with AN fittings for the ends of it). - I've purchased 20' of -6 AN braided stainless steel line (summitracing.com) - I'm going to purchase the Aeromotive 1000-6 fuel pressure regulator - I'm going to purchase the JSK fuel rail With all the fittings and stuff - it ain't cheap... but I'll never have to mess with it again (until I have to buy injectors). I'm going to run -8 AN braided stainless to A fuel filter. Then -8 AN braided stainless to the fuel pump. Then -6AN braided stainless to the next fuel filter Then to the rest of the system (return line will be -6, too). What filters do you reccommend before the fuel pump and after it??? I've done some pretty extensive searching on the subject. Can you use the same filter in both places (as long as it is a high-flow fuel injected one)??? Where do you mount all of this crap? On a side note - do you guys just take out the "cold start injector"? How do you plug up the intake? Thanks! Tim EDIT: What does a pallnet fuel rail cost?

What size lines did you have them put in? What type of fitting did they use coming out of the tank? Were the fittings welded? (i've read about people using bulkhead fittings with a nut on the inside of the tank... scary!) Where did you buy the fittings? Did you have to supply the lines for the inside - or did they provide them. What'd they charge you for the whole tank including the extra work on the lines. Thanks! Tim

I've read all of the articles (it took a long time). I'm not afraid of doing a bunch of work to make it right. It sounds like there are 2 reasons not to use a fuel cell: 1) The gas vents to the atmosphere rather than to a vent tank. This would not be nice because I will be parking the car in a garage attached to my house. 2) You have to fill up the tank through the hatch... this would make your car smell like gas - suck ***! I think I want to use the stock tank as I will be using the car for fun and racing on the weekends. Just something to scare the sh*t out of the local "import" kids. I do want to mess with the tank one time only. I've read that the stock tank and lines will support 300 whp - and that is it. Has anybody ever had their tank "Gas Tank Renu'd" and had them weld in a larger pickup tube and return nipple. I don't see any reason they couldn't put in a 1/2" send line and a 3/8" return using AN fittings as long as the tank was all apart. This would give me the functionality I'm looking for out of a stock tank, while still having big enough lines to support serious fuel delivery. Thoughts??? Thanks!

Today I dropped the tank... You can tip the tank from side to side and hear the rust sliding around in it. Flashlight through the sending unit hole confirmed it - rusty inards. I completely plan on making this a badass car (350+whp) with a L28ET swap. Questions: - Should I mess with the old tank (take it to a renu dealer) - or should I just put in a fuel cell? - Will the stock fuel lines acoomodate 350 whp - or while I'm rebuilding the fuel system - should I go ahead with bigger stainless send and return lines. I'm not that worried about the cost... I plan on having this car a long time and I want to do it "right" - If I do put in bigger lines - do I need to change out the elbows coming out of the fuel tank for bigger ones? Basically - while I'm spending all of this time - I wan't to do it right so I don't have to ever mess with it again. Like I said - I'm not so worried about the cost. I guess - if you were to design the ideal fuel system for a 78 Z - what would it look like? Thanks for the Replies!!! -Tim