trwebb26

I'm using the Red, Round Blaster 2 coil - 50% fixed dwell.

Master Moby - so you are recommending that I take a look at the coil driver on the the megasquirt and address a way to cool it? One more note - I mounted my Megasquirt to the top of my tranny tunnel where the heat/ac used to be.

Ignition Miss. I'm running the onboard coil driver through an MSD 6a (spark and fuel).

Has anybody ever had problems with megasquirt when it gets hot? My motor runs great when cold, but when it warms up - it starts to miss and eventually dies. I think my next step it to take the megasquirt apart and check for cold solder / bridges, etc. Any other suggestions?

It may have increased it - but that just means that with the old pump - I was running WAY less than 7psi. Maybe 3 psi? - and the new pump bumped it up to 6 or something?

As the title says. Be descriptive with synthetic/non-synthetic. If you run different weights for the winter/summer. Thanks!

My pump came in a day early. Sad to say that it didn't fix the problem. When the car warms up - it idles too low. I've decided to switch to a higher weight oil. What oil weight do all of you guys run in your Z?

I changed out to resistor plugs today. The resetting was much improved, but still not gone. I guess my next step is some new wires - unless somebody has another suggestion.

You HAVE to set some kind of dwell setting in MS, though. For MSD's - the right setting is fixed - 50% dwell.

change the setting for "spark output inverted" to opposite of whatever you've got it at now.

I'm not sure I got the answer I was looking for... Does the timing you are getting with the light match the map?

What coil are you runnin? Put a timing light on it and rev the engine. Make sure that the timing matches your timing map all the way thru the revs. That is the first place to start.

Courtesy doesn't have the springs and they are on back-order for another 4-6 weeks. Anybody else I could call for the springs?

Thanks for the quick reply! Surfing through the website - 90% of the stuff isn't for sale any more! Anything else on the website good to consider picking up while I'm paying the shipping charges?

They'll be here Wednesday... 16X8 w/ a 10mm offset in "bronze" Total WITH shipping was $605. What a deal. I've got a 78' 280 and I'll be running Modern Motorsports 8" coilovers with upgraded maxima rears & 4x4 vented fronts (even though they don't clear without a spacer). What is the correct tire for that wheel? 245/50/16? Anybody have a recommendation for a good tire that'll run around $100 a piece? I've been surfing tirerack - and it looks like the BF G-Sports may fit the bill. They won't be driven in the snow - and in the rain only when I get caught in some (very rarely). Thanks for the help!

I bought a set of resistor plugs today... Do they get the same gap as a normal plug? I understand that a resistor plug doesn't put out as much EMI - but how? What is inside of the plug that makes it so magical... And why don't they sell them in platinum?

There is 78K miles and 28 years on the stock oil pump... I decided to retire it and ordered a new Melling Auto/Turbo oil pump today. It should be here Thursday. I'm running 10W30 oil. I'm running megasquirt w/ no idle air control - so I can't really drive it until the engine warms up anyways. Where do you get the stiffer "comp" spring? It probably wouldn't hurt anything to run the stiffer spring right from the get-go like you guys recommend? Thanks again for all of the replies!

The problem is... my car won't run unless the oil pressure is above 7 psi... I looking for advice so I can have higher oil pressure at idle.

I too am plagued by resets! - and like you say - only when the serial cable is plugged in. I'm convinced you've got the answer. My question - what are resistor plugs? I've never heard of them and I'm ready to by a set of 6 for my Z. Thanks for the info!!!

I just finished re-wiring my car with a 7 psi oil pressure - fuel pump cutoff. When the motor is cold - everything stays running, but when it warms up - every time I go to idle the oil pressure drops just below 7 psi and it dies (like it is supposed to). I'm running an autometer electric guage w/ new sender - so I'm sure I have low oil pressure. After searching - I've read 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. Is oil pressure below the 7 psi marker at idle too low? Where should I look to fix it? New oil pump? New springs? Drop the pan and check the screen? Suggestions? Thanks for the replies.

Are you using an MSD box? If you are - you need to put a timing light on it and rev the engine. Make sure that the timing matches the timing map. If it doesn't - post back and I can help with the problem.

bump

Are these still available at a discount? I wanted to try and clear up a few things about the spacer issue. I've got a 78' 280z. If you have the vented front brake setup - there already is a 9.10mm spacer there to center the caliper on the disk. If you have a +10mm offset wheel - and use the 9.10mm spacer for the calipers... aren't you very close to zero offset as far as tire spacing goes? The next problem is that the caliper hits the wheel. If you use the +10mm offset wheel - then you will need to "shave" the caliper and run a 8-10mm spacer (effectively pushing the tire more toward the outside of the car)? Wouldn't +20mm offset wheels be preferred? With the rears - if you are running a +10mm offset wheel... do the tires rub the inner fender without a spacer? If you ran the +20mm offset without a spacer - would the rub? I've got the money in hand to buy these rims - just gotta get straightened out with the spacer issue. Thanks to everybody for the help!

Cody has the right idea... don't cheap out and buy just C02. The mix with Argon I deem a requirement - Especially because you are new to welding.

did anybody find out if they fit 4x4 front brakes and 240sx rears? $800 shipped is sounding like a pretty sick deal for wheel/tires... Somebody PLEASE tell me they fit my brakes!