trwebb26

The Euro damper has been discontinued by Nissan with no plan in sight to make them again. I ordered the Robello racing (BHJ manufactured) single groove pulley. It has the same pulley diameter as the stock one (I think - I haven't tightened up the belt, yet). Aparently I was one of the first people to get one as they just finished the first batch. It was a heafty $360, but it is a VERY high quality piece. I had TONS of trouble assembling it to my crank. It took a lot of finesse with a file and some sandpaper.

Anyone?

I don't think so.... I'm not sure what is going on... Heavy85 (I work with him) told me that it may be a nismo competition tranny, but I'm not so sure. How can I tell what kind of tranny I have??? I just got my package from victoria british... now msa, victoria british, and my local car parts store have all told me that I'm on crack - and that I have some kind of strange tranny. Somebody please help. I need to get a seal for this thing.

I have a 78' 280z with a 5-speed manual. I am replacing the output shaft seal. I've ordered 3 of them now, from 3 different places - and all of them have the wrong OD. The ID is correct, but the one that everybody keeps sending me has an ID that is too small and doesn't match the bearing OD. Has anybody run into this? What is my problem?

I think now I'm considering venting the valve cover with a filter - and running a vented catch can off of the block. That is a great picture, BTW.

What setup is everybody using for Crankcase/Valve Cover Venting? Based on this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93716 There are 2 options: 1) Vent them both (either filters - or via vented catch can) 2) Maintain stock PCV system with both vents hooked upto intake manifold. Please also mention if you are running a MAP sensor or AFM and whether emissions are required where you live. I'm curious to see what the turbo guys have done with the vent for the block and if it gets in the way of the turbo piping. Thanks! Tim

see this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107364

External Wastegate flange, too? How much we talkin?

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf Lucky man - your diagram is even in COLOR!

I ended up putting it in the cold start hole. 6 Reasons: 1) I won't have to move it when I go turbo. 2) I figure the heat soak will be minimal... aluminum intake manifold through the brass to the "free air" part of the sensor - and only when there isn't a serious rush of air running over it at cruising or WOT to cool it off. 3) I think that good tune with the wideband will take care of any residual heat soak that I do end up with - at least on the average. 4) Wiring is nice and clean. 5) The bigass hole is already there - might as well fill it up. 6) An easy NPT tap (not like those godawful ones in the thermostat housing). I've said it before and I'll say it again - a blind, tapered tap in aluminum is a horrible job.

2 5/8" = 66.675mm 2 1/16" = 52.3875mm

If you put it on one of the runners - you will only be getting the air-fuel raitio for that cylinder. If you put it in the collector - it would average out all of the cylinders and give you a more general reading for how the engine is performing.

Does anybody know what the temperature of a downpipe 10" from a turbo is? I personally have seen them glow red - probably greater than the reccomended 900 degrees F for some applications. That copper heatsink isn't going to help your EGT's over 1300 degrees, either. I'm not sure what a usual heat disipation from a turbo outlet is... It is possible that (for instance) - every inch you get away from the turbo, the downpipe temp reduces by 100 degrees F (dependant on diameter/area of the pipe, wall thickness, material, etc). I don't know that, just giving an example. 240hoke is right - it would be helpful for somebody with an infared temp guage to check it out. I just want to know where people are putting their sensor - not get into an argument about the details and justification why somebody put the sensor where they did. Maybe the question should be - where is the ideal place for the sensor? All the information I can find says to put it as far away from the heat as possible - but not so far downstream that free air can rush in the tailpipe and give lean readings. Comments?

I can only find a maximum temperature that the sensor should be below... I think they prefer it to be in a cooler place?

Now that everybody has their Innovative Wideband O2 sensor from Summit (for those that were lucky like me) - I'm curious where everybody has their sensor placed. I know that it has to be before the cat... but my car doesn't have a cat (did any Z?). The innovative website movies (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/lm101.php) say to put the sensor as far downstream as possible to avoid heat... not like this: but at least 2-3 feet from "the end of the tailpipe" so the thing doesn't read false lean at low idle. I was going to shoot for someplace before the rear suspension, but I haven't gotten underneath the car to look around, yet. As always - pictures are king.

I bought 2 day shipping and my tracking number says a scheduled delivery of Monday.

white on black is still there?

I got the black on aluminum... must have just made it.

Summit has the innovative wideband on clearance for $215 WITH THE GUAGE. These WON"T last. I just placed my order. HURRY!!!

I considered cutting the end of the clutch line so it would bottom out. Anybody see a problem doing that?

Today the 78' 280Z was giving me absolute FITS! 1) Throttle cable. I've been messing around for the last 2 weeks trying to get a throttle cable setup I'd be happy with. I finally finsihed bolting everything where it needed to be... last thing to do - cut the lokar throttle cable to the right length. I wrapped a bunch of tape around it and cut it like I would a piece of braided stainless fuel line. As soon as I got finished - the stainless steel braid spread WAY apart. You are supposed to have a piece of aluminum that "keeps" the braid together, but when I got the cable - I pulled it off. It was freakin IMPOSSIBLE to push this thing over the braid. I've had trouble with braided stainless fuel line, but NOTHING like this. I ended up cutting it twice more with no luck - so now the cable is too short. Time to order a replacement *sigh* 2) I made up new Vaccum lines for the brake booster, and I only had "just enough" of the sweet blue hose. I had to make 2 pieces - One on each side of the 1-way valve mounted to the firewall. I ended up cutting one side too short. I guess I'll need to buy some more hose *sigh* What is that valve for anyways? 3) I bought a stainless steel clutch line from MSA to replace my badly cracked original rubber one. I got it all apart and found out that my slave cylinder is leaking *sigh*. Time to order a new slave cylinder. 4) Just for kicks - I tried to screw my new earls stainless clutch line into my leaky slave cylinder - and it bottoms out before seating! I looked to make sure that I had the copper crush washer. I did - and there is room to spare! What gives? Has anybody else installed one of these? After that - I gave up. I figured that the car gods are not behind me today... better to stop before screwing up something big. Comments on the above questions are appreciated. Tim

You da man, Moby.

I want to switch to electric fans (probably 2-12" flexalite fans like Yasin runs). They sell the thermostat kit for ~$40, but that would be another sensor, more crowded engine, and more wires. Has anyone here used MS&SE to control electric fans? I've read a lot of info on the Megasquirt forums and the stuff on fan control is pretty spotty. Regardless, I'm willing to try with some guidance from "Master Moby" and the rest of you expert MS Z-heads. I have a 78' N/A (83' dizzy) that will be running MS&SE w/ version 3.0 board in about a month. Any advice or guidance would be appreciated! Thanks, Tim

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