trwebb26

Anybody know what kind of sending unit I need to buy to convert to an autometer speedometer. I'm running a regular 5-speed tranny. Thanks!!!

I take it back! It isn't fixed. I've read a post about Taylor wires causing problems? Maybe I should try adding a 12V power "cleaner" similar to that used on car stereos on my megasquirt power source?

I tried a new power source and the bucking went away! Thanks for the great advice!

I just converted to Megasquirt on my 78' 280z. I just took it out for a drive. The car runs ok, but if you are at low rpm in second gear and hit the gas - sometimes it will go just fine... other times the car will buck like a freakin horse for one revolution (like it STOPS the car for a second). Like I said - it doesn't always do it. After reading up on several posts - my guess is my timing is too advanced. Here is my map: I really don't know for sure what the problem is... engine, tranny, rear end... please help give me some suggestions to troubleshoot.

Finally got it figured out. I had to "un-invert" the spark output. I know everyone says it is a big no-no, but it was the only way I could get the MSD to function properly.

I FIXED IT!!! I had to set the dwell to fixed (minimal). But now I've got another problem. Megasquirt isn't controlling the timing. Changes in trigger angle don't affect the timing at all. Any ideas?

Yup... wideband installed. I figured it out... i'm getting WAY too much advance... LIke 40 degrees plus by 2200 rpm. Basically - megasquirt isn't paying attention to my spark table. any idea how to fix it?

I figured it out .... when you rev it up it is getting WAY!!! too much advance. By the time I'm at 2000 RPM - i'm at 40+ degrees advance - and it just keeps going up if you push more on the throttle. Any ideas what could be wrong in MS?

Admin's... I know this is a double post (it is in the MS forum, too). I'm not getting much help in the MS forum - and I don't think it is a Megasquirt problem... Just a motor problem. I've got a stock 78' 280z with MS&SE running 3.0 hardware & 3.0 bar map sensor. I'm running the 83' turbo dizzy and 240sx tb. I'm running the aeromotive FPR with idle (800rpm & 38kPa) at 36psi. Stock 19 lb injectors. The car idles great... but when I step on the go-pedal it gets up to ~2500 rpm and really sputters, coughs, backfires, etc. What could cause it? Thanks!

I'm running stock 19lb injectors... That is the setting that other people have used for those injectors (reccomended by MS using their calculator). I'm somehow convinced it's timing - so i started it up and put a timing light on every wire. 1, 2, 5, & 6 show the timings mark lining up and only 3 & 4 show 180 degrees out. Is that correct?

I have a wideband.... reading ~11-14 AFR all the way to the "sputter, cough, and pop" point.

I've got a stock 78' 280z with MS&SE running 3.0 hardware & 3.0 bar map sensor. I'm running the 83' turbo dizzy and 240sx tb. I'm running the aeromotive FPR with idle (800rpm & 38kPa) at 36psi. Stock 19 lb injectors. The car idles great... but when I step on the go-pedal it gets up to ~2500 rpm and really sputters, coughs, backfires, etc. My first thought was that my tables were screwed up... but after 2 full days of tuning them I've gotten nowhere fast! I've disabled all of the enrichments to try and nail down the problem, but that didn't help. What could it be? I'm begining to be desperate! Thanks! Here is my *.msq file... because yahoo is a beyotch.. you have to download it as a txt file (an approved yahoo file extension) and rename it to msq. http://www.geocities.com/trwebb26/280z/280z-04JUN06.txt I appreciate the help!

Ok... my first full day of tuning the z... first off - it takes a lot longer to figure it out than I thought it would. It seems like all I do is read - search the internet - read some more - search the internet - check the sticky - read some more and so on. What I've figured out so far: - Other peoples tables are useless unless you have the entire MSQ file... even then - it doesn't help much - Spark tuning seems to be quite the black art. I took my best guess based on suggestions from moby and z-ya. - Adding timing to idle really boosts up the MAP pressure. I went from ~11 degrees to ~23 degrees and my MAP's went up by 20kPa. Is this normal? - Quite a bit of stuff has changed from release to release of megasquirt - megatune. It is tough to figure out what is what sometimes. - Autotune doesn't seem to work worth a crap! - Acceleration enrichments are the key afer it idles ok. The stock settings in megasquirt just make it puke and backfire at you. This is where I'm currently stuck. Please post your accel/decel enrichments so i can get a clue what mine should be set at. This is just the start of questions. I'd ask more now, but the wife is barking at me to go to dinner. I'll try to post pics of my config later today / tomorrow. Thanks! Tim

I'm still quite confused. Can you post up a pic of your MS&SE spark maps? Thanks!

I have a 78' 280z and I am going to install the Modern Motorsports Coilover kit. My hopes: - Something that will kick *** at the autocross or drag strip... I'm not as concerned about ride quality, but don't want it to kill me either. Performance is the key for me. - I want to drop the car to get rid of the nasty wheel gap, and I also want to run wide tires. - I will be sectioning my rear strut tubes and moving the A-Arm location (the typical modifications). The questions: - What would you reccomened for front/rear spring weights? - 8" or 10" springs? What is the tradeoff? Does the strut section make a difference? - I want to run adjustable shocks. What is the correct car to buy for assuming the struts will be sectioned... I've heard that miata shocks are correct for sectioned rear strut tubes? Thanks for the help!

But that isn't anything like what is in the sticky for timing? It shows 14 degrees for idle timing?

I'm trying to figure out tuning my MS on a stock 78' 280z. Can somebody please post a good spark map for me? Thanks!

If you have your LC-1 set to output 0-5V at 10-20 AFR... what should your switch point be set at in megatune? 2.35 V makes sense (14.7:1 AFR) to me. What do you think?

Ok... I took the cap off and was rotating the dizzy around the mark - all of the sudden a HUGE spark jumped from the cap (laying nearby) to my arm and about made me piss myself. It also sounds like some injectors are clicking. Even with all of this activity... I still don't have the middle LED coming on. I am running a V3.0 board if it matters. I think the spark of death was a good sign, but I still am not sure if my MS is hooked up correctly because I'm not getting the middle LED. Help pleez.

No center light for me... I checked the wiring up to the dizzy and it looks fine... 12V on the B/W... ~4V on the B/G... but no light on the megasquirt. any troubleshooting tips?

The install guide tells you: "You got it set to about 50 or 60 BTDC, now loosen the distributor and turn it by hand with MSnS powered on until you see the middle LED come on." The middle light on my MS does not come on. What makes the middle light turn on? What should I be looking for? I'm all wired up ready to go... just need a little more help.

Do those things actually work? You are talking about those things that have a whole bunch of nail-looking things in them - and they push down around the thing you are trying to get out? I'm halfway scared of putting so much on it that I break the case.

Reverse switch hole... GREAT IDEA! I can't believe I didn't think of it. I'll more than likely have to remove the tranny in the near future anyways... The drain plug had a few steel synchro teeth when I removed it. I'll more forcefully address removal of the actual fill plug then... Gotta love buying an old car!

I can't get my tranny fill plug out. It is completely rounded off... and it is in there TIGHT! I've tried just about everything but heating it up. Does anybody have any recomendations? If your recomendation is to heat it up - please give me some instruction. I know the aluminum housing will expand a lot faster than the steel plug, but I don't want to mess anything up. Will the oil catch fire? Thanks for your help!

On my 78' Z - there are two yellow and black wires coming out of the oil pressure sending unit. One goes to the oil pressure guage - the other is a switch. I'm guessing that the switch must be "activated" for the fuel pump to turn on. I would like to retain this feature with my megasquirt. Can somebody tell me what signal comes from this yellow and black wire when the car is running so I can wire up my relays correctly... Thanks!