bthomp

Car is a 78 280z. I ripped out all the connections with the new speedo and the car still would not shut off but the key was reading 0 and 12v at where I have my switched power spliced in for MS when I turned the key to the off position. Today I pulled out the whole dash and started testing the wires individually. Everything was fine including the wire I have switched power for while I turned the key. Only things not hooked up were MS and the assortment( fuel pump, injectors, O2, ect.). My wires are too short to reach the fuse block and MS. I have the little amp box thing (68600 AJ5000) that was wired into the odometer removed, but I can't see why that would be causing the engine to not shut off once running because it isn't completing any circuit.

So I just installed a speedhut gps speedo and everything went great. That is until I tried to turn the car off once it was started. For some reason, the car simply wont turn off now the new gauge is installed without me pulling the power to MS directly. I hooked up the white wires to one of the old illumination light wires, the ground to ground of the rheostat. Left and right turn signals up to old left and right turn signal lights. And 12v to a direct line from the battery(with inline fuse). High beam I left unhooked until I could figure out what wire was the switch for it since the light in the gauge always has 12v going to it. Has anyone heard of this or might have an idea what might be causing it? Oh before this the car worked normal and other than the key not turning anything off, still works normal

so no one has this head anymore then?

So I was looking around, trying to find more information about the heads, cams, and so on, and then I came across the P99. Seems like its somewhat accepted as being real and external wise, identical to the P90a. As Tony said though in another post to make this one different than the 90a. Has anyone that has had this head done anything to it to know the difference? Like chop it up into tiny pieces for the purpose of furthering scientific understanding/ understanding WHAT THE HELL IS THE DIFFERENCE?????? Also, does anyone have a picture to look at. I know its the same externally, but doesn't hurt to see a LEGIT picture.

Well I'm in the middle of putting my na vg in the 280 just so I can run the car for the moment. But yeah, the external side is basically all done for doing the l28. After all I DID have it turbod. And my ms is set up for it as well

If I wasn't on an out of state college budget... I could see me doing something like an LS or 2jz swap... Just trying to work with what I have.

One thing I would like to add about pump gas that I was informed about was that oct 87 is never really that rating. A test was done on the different octane ratings from different gas stations. The results from 87 were crazy. It was found that some stations had gas that had an actual rating of 12 less than 87!!! On a side note, the test also showed that the higher octane rated gases were closer to their real rating. Anyways, back to the real discussion at hand

I have a feeling it was more towards the side of not cooling off, around that time my afr started to bounce a bit. Also when we took the injectors off the rail, that injectors was full of crap that you could see on the filter screen on top. We also too a look at the piston rings to see what they could tell us. It was kinda melted to the piston at the spot where the piston melted. But I shall not dismiss the idea of detonation and look more into it. I look around and see what I can find out about getting the 2003 version of the book and give it a read. At what point did you decide to switch up to the ka? Been wondering how much longer my stock will hold up and need to upgrade/replace it. Not a whole lot of info that I can find anyways about the stock trans.

So I take it your running the stock transmission then Tony? Lol I'm not an expert, nor have I started any auto mechanical engineering classes yet, but the differences in the t and NA block for cr are only slightly off from each other in the case that 8:2?, is still fairly low and not anywhere close to the 10 that giving the engine flattops give it.. in fact, as far as block goes, the head is where the real difference is for cr. Might be wrong about this though, been working triple shifts at work along with schooling the past 3 days so my brain is pretty fried right now. But if I am, sure you guys will correct me, or just pretend this section of the post never happened. I supported my turbo and tuned carefully until greed hit me and I stop paying attention to the engine... The car made it down to FL and back to MD, hell I lived down in Florida for 3 months and was using the car as a DD and made long trips down in FL...Just saying. I'm sure iv said this before and sure others will agree that this is probably the case... Detonation Did Not Cause My Piston To Melt!!!! Detonation=something went boom Melting piston=something wasn't cooling that cylinder, at all... On a side note to my original thread before this gets moved and changes into something else... Right now I think I'm going to test my VG swap and see how I like it. If I like how the car feels with the better center of gravity that much, then ill build it up. If not, go back to the L28, slightly modify the externals a bit more for a more reliable setup, bore the block so its useable again, and so on

or in my case, a melted piston... Like I said though, whole nother story Tony, what transmission are you using on your engine?

Being that the externals are already done for the l28, it would make everything a lot easier...

I was talking to blozup on his instal. I'll take a look at that sticky next. Not going to lie, Megasquirt and I have a love hate type of relationship... The L28 was a stock NA for everything inside the block and head. Outside was all custom to some degree. The melted piston could of came from a number of reasons, not to say the turbo didnt help push things along faster... Over all my main reason for even thinking about keeping the L28 is simplicity and knowledge. They are fairly easy engines to work on, and I know a lot more about them than the VGs.

Internals in both engines would be replaced to fit the build, na internals for na and turbo internals for turbo... ill be using megasquirt 2 since I have it. The reason I'm I'm asking about these 2 engines is becuase its what I have to work with. BTW, the l28e can hold a lot more boost stock internals than what people give credit... I turboed mine 15 lb of boost. Was my dd and Made a trip down to FL from MD and back with no problem, wasn't till I went to 20lb did a piston melt. But the reason for that is a whole nother story. Pharaohabq- I'm intrested to see how much difference I feel in the car with a better center of gravity with this VG once its in... Not to worried about custom fab the downpipe and what not. Did it once, can do it again. Also I didn't think about mapping with the VG and how it might be easier. Howler, why is it the you put l28s into those cars?

I won't, but I'm looking more for what you guys would do. As in which motor would you build up and would it be a na or turbo build up

Lol I do. Made my own full 3" exhaust system inc downpipe for the l28. And a few other things

Alright guys, need your opinion. Iv got an l28 engine from my 78 280z and a vg30e from a 85 300zx. The l28 I melted a piston and needs bored and a valve job to be reuseable. The vg needs nothing. Right now I'm putting the vg in my 280, but I'm not sure if I want to build that up or redo the l28. What would you guys do, and would you turbo them or build it up na?

I have one in awesome condition, but it doesn't have the internal wastegate on it. The turbo is set up though so you can bolt one right on, and it fits right on the exhaust mani.

I'd start at 75% and work up from there so you don't burn out the injectors. And for the other numbers, you might want to do some research about them to see what numbers you should be pluging in.

According to their website, they are high impedance. So you could reinstall the pack, or change the setting in MS. But as I'm sure other people will say, even if you reinstall the resistors, you will prob still have to play around with your setting anyways. As far as resets, your going to have to wait for someone else to answer that. Good luck though. I'm away at school about 2 1/2 hrs and am having problems as well. Funny how nothing is wrong when you have all your tools around, but as soon as you leave everything goes wrong that could.

What reading did you get, and where did you get the injectors from?

A few weeks ago, my battery went dead and i had my car jumped. The guy hooked up the jumper box backwards and ended the life for a few things... The main one being MS. From what I could see, and from talking to Matt, it seemed like just C16 blew up, and Q5 went bad. Got it replaced with the other parts that went bad. Drove the car around a little bit and everything was reading fine. When I stopped to get gas, the car wouldnt start, and the battery didnt seem to have much life. Turned out that 2 of the fuseable links somehow fried. So I was able to replace them with new inline fuses. 80 for the black wire, and 50 for red. Car started right back up, but not without a problem. My afr was reading lean/ just no fuel at all in the low load area of the table. Tried adjusting my tables a little bit, but didnt seem to help. I also then noticed that the MAP sensor was reading about 29kpa. Checked for something wrong with the line, but couldnt find anything. tried to just clamp the hose shut, and nothing changed with that. I shut the car off to see what the reading was with the engine off. it was normal at about 96ish kpa. I then took MS out and hooked it up to the Stim, everything seemed to be fine. So then i took it back down to my car, hooked everything back up, and then couldnt get a Tach signal anymore during cranking. Took MS back up to check Stim for RPM, and it got it just fine. Anyone have an idea of what all might of went bad/wrong when the fuseable links when bad thats causing me to have all these problems? The car was running great again after I got everything fixed from the first time all the way up till I stopped to get gas... Also this WAS a running system. Used this car to drive from college to back home on the weekends.

Hey, I'm just the builder. He told me what he wanted and I'm just trying to figure everything out, whats possible and whats just not reasonable or possible with what we have.

Yes the Nissan Leaf over in Euro. I'm working on this already crazy build for my brother, still in design mode. But anyways, the reason for wireless is because he wants to be able to control everything with a pad, the sound, hard top(yes a hard top for the 240), a/c. just everything he possibly can. Any idea how those LCD systems work? His company does nothing but wireless communication for just about everything..., so i am sure if we could get an LCD system in there, he could get someway to transfer that data to some kind of pad. Ill look up Vintage Air later today after I get done my classes.

Anyone have any kind of idea how the leaf is designed with its wireless a/c. If not, any ideas how to turn the 240s a/c into a wireless system? Was thinking about electric arms that move back and forth the mechanical ones on the system and putting a Bluetooth system on that. Making a custom dashboard with for the car as well.

been looking around for maps and what not for me to get in the ball park for a timing map, and almost all maps with a turbo have the l28et head, block, or something with a lower compression ratio. Most of the few guys that stuck a turbo on their l28e, dont have a spark map, or their msq file doesnt exist on the internet anymore and is an empty link... I know this is kind of a broad question and is completely engine dependent, but how much change in timing would you guys do between to "identical" setups, but with the turboed head or something else like it. I know there are a ton of other factors out there that come into play other than compression ratio. Just looking for a rough guess on dumbing down the timing for me to work with.