SpeedRacer

Yeah, based on his feedback I wouldn't buy anything from him! Also, I'm not sure I would call it a "crate" motor because the block and heads are used. I think the true definition of "crate" means it is all new and comes with a warranty. What he is selling is really a rebuilt motor. As I said in a different thread, I would buy it right from GM and the new ZZ383 is pretty awesome for the money. http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=73193

Why don't you try a GM ZZ383 crate motor http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=73193 425 HP and 460 ft. lbs. of torque for only $4,869.95!!!! It even comes with a factory warranty!

It's an old 365 HP 327 SBC with Tri-Power

I use a Carter CRT-P4594 that I bought from Summit http://store.summitracing.com/ The bracket has rubber grommets and the pump doesn't make much noise. I mounted it to the outside of the spare tire well using stove bolts and put some self adhesive rubber based sound proofing pads on both sides. You can hear the pump running but it is not very loud. Actually, once the engine is running you don't notice it at all. BTW, it's only $59.95.

In order for your engine oil to expel the moisture from combustion and condensation it must exceed the boiling point of water which is 212 degrees Fahrenheit at sea level. So, generally speaking, 220 to 240 degrees F is a good range of oil temperature.

Sorry, I don't know of any way to compensate so I would do them hot. But, here's a tip for you. Set the engine with the number 1 piston at TDC on the EXHAUST stroke and adjust the: Exhaust rockers of cylinders 2, 5, 6 and 7 Intake rockers of cylinders 3, 4, 6 and 8 Now rotate the crank 360 degrees (1 full turn) so the number 1 piston is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Adjust the: Exhaust rockers of cylinders 1, 3, 4 and 8 Intake rockers of cylinders 1, 2, 5 and 7 That should help speed up the job.

It sure sounds like the engine is dieseling (also called run-on). Since it didn't do it before you changed your plugs it might be that the new sparkplugs are to hot. Since a 383 isn't a stock engine it may be a bit difficult to find the right heat range plug. I'd try using a set of plugs that are a couple of heat ranges colder and see if that helps.

Thanks RCNSC! Yeah, it looks a lot like a Velo Rossa but it is the original 250 GTO kit - an Alpha 1 GTO from Joe Alphabet. The wheels are replicas of the original Borrani GTO wires. They are custom made 72 spoke Dayton real knock off wire wheels http://www.daytonwheel.com/ And the are a pain in the a** to clean!

Here is a picture of mine taken at the world famous Meadow Brook Concours d'Elegance. http://www.meadowbrookconcours.org/ Needless to say it was not in the concours. Actually it's taken in front of the servant's quarters of my 110 room 88,000 sq. ft. home - not! http://www.meadowbrookhall.org/

Man, does your car ever look great Terry. The sculpting and attention to detail is just amazing. Congratulations on one great ride!!!

And here I thought I had just had another senior moment! I found this October 13, 2003 post by Ron Jones "The 555 was a 540ci that had already been in the car.The car has been 8.56@160 with that set up.Other than opening up the motor to 555CI,it will also have two 1050 Dominators on a Edelbrock Victor 2-R Tunnel Ram,insted of the single 1050 that was on a Dart single plane intake.I go back and forth all the time with selling or keeping this Car.I would like something New,but keeping it doesn't bother Me eaither.It is a totaly Cool Car. " So it wasn't a 502 but a 555!!!!!!!

Thanks zfan as I couldn't remember the exact time and speed that Ron turned and couldn't find his site anymore. Here is an interesting link that Pete Paraska http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/ has on his site for a guy, Michael Ol, that was going to convert to a 502 but ended up with a 454 (which is the same physical size). http://alteredz.com/MichaelOlsBBZ.htm It required an amazing amount of cutting and welding but the end result looked like a stock 1978 280Z!!!!

I think Ron had a Chevy 502 in his and turned something like a 6.48 in the 1/4 mile. He used to post here but I haven't seen anything from him for a while now.

Isaac, There is a kit available to convert the engine in a Porsche 914 to a small block Chevy (SBC). Since the 914 is a mid engine car you do not have to change anything in the drive train. An adapter is used to mate the SBC up to the transaxle and a custom clutch is used. Since the Porsche engine and the Chevy rotate in the same direction it is not a problem.

Most boats with twin inboard engines have one that rotates counter-clockwise and the other in a clockwise (opposite) direction. If both engines rotated in the same direction the boat would always want to turn in the direction the screws (propellers) are turning. By using counter rotating engines you cancel out the torque (thrust) and the boat will go straight (when the engines are turning at the same RPM). That being said, I don’t know why you would want to use a counter rotating engine in a car.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/

I know it's a kit car but the only rattle I have in the whole car comes from the windows when they are rolled down. I have been trying to fix the window rattles in both doors of my '71 Z without much success. Each door has new run channels, rollers and door panels. However, I can't find out how many rollers and on what side of the window they should be on. I have looked in my various manuals but they are no help. Does anybody know how many window rollers should be on each door and on what side of the window? Thanks in advance for your help.

Yeah but mine is insured with Hagerty @ $35,000 repacement value so I can't be much help. Ask youself this: If it got totaled what would you want from your insurance company?

I got both types from MSA. The plain one piece push in type as well as the ones with the movable shaft in the center.

If Z based Ferrari 250 GTO kit cars count, I'll add Tom Cruise driving a black one in the beginning of Vanilla Sky and of course John Candy drives a red one a bunch in the movie Delirious.

Sorry Gas Tank RenU dosen't have a franchise near you. You might try Eastwood. They have a complete kit to recondition a gas tank http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=382&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=gas+tank

I think this should be in the "Fuel Delivery" section but here it goes. Take it out and drop it off at your local Gas Tank RenU dealer http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm They do an awesome job and it comes with a lifetime nationwide warranty!

Those old Vette motors where "Gross" HP rated and not like todays "Net" HP rated engines. A 350 horse 327 is around 280 - 290 HP using today's net horsepower rating system. Listen to Tim240Z - CRATE MOTOR - here's a 330 HP, 380 Ft. Lbs. of torque GM 350 CID crate motor for $3495.95 including carb and distributor. http://www.paceparts.com/product.asp?0=239&1=241&3=940 It even comes with a GM factory warranty!

Take it out and drop it off at your local Gas Tank RenU dealer http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm They do an awesome job and it comes with a lifetime nationwide warranty!

Hi Ashok and thanks to you and the others here for the nice comments about my car. : 8) First, I never considered the $60,000 and $80,000 offers to be real. Those people never actually contacted me except for the comments in the guest book on the CarDomain web site. The car is not for sale but a legitimate offer in the $60,000 to $80,000 range would make it disappear out of my garage in a New York minute! Second, I have had what I consider legitimate offers around the $35,000 range. I had one guy who saw it at the Woodward Dream Cruise that has, over time, made four offers and increased the offer each time. I have it insured with Hagerty for $35,000 so I guess you might say that is what I consider the car to be worth. However, in the end, it is only worth what you actually sell it for. I have all the receipts for the car but never added them up - I don't want to know and I certainly don't want my wife to know! My gut feel is that I have almost that much in the car without counting the many, many hours it took to build. The FIA rules would not let Ferrari change the windshield angle on the car. The GTO was based on the Ferrari 250 SWB (Short Wheel Base). The end result on the real 250 GTO is a very long low hood but the windshield stands up quite straight because, although Ferrari lowered the hood, they had to keep the same angle to the windshield. The real GTO is an awesome looking car, and Enzo would probably roll over in his grave, but IMHO the GTO Datsun based kit looks more proportionally correct. As far as the interior goes I used the components I did because I wanted to be comfortable driving it. It was not intended to be a "trailer queen" so some things had to work well like heating, ventilation, and seating and have reasonable sound insulation. There is a more GTO like dash the Jim Simpson offered but it did not accommodate the vents or use the original steel structure so I went with the original Alpha type dash that I purchased from John Watson. Although the exhaust is quite loud the car is very comfortable to drive. It rides well and doesn’t have any squeaks or rattles. Best of all it is really quick! If you are truly interested in building one I would contact Tom Edwards at Scorpion Z Cars http://www.scorpionzcars.com/ Tom's kit offers the later McBurnie nose and a few other minor revisions that make his is a little more like the real GTO's. Also, he offers a trunk kit. If there was one thing I would change on my car it would be adding the trunk. And last, don’t build it for the money, build it because it is a blast to drive and always has a crowd around it at shows or wherever you park it.