SpeedRacer

I think the only supplier in your area is Classic Revival http://www.classicrevival.com.au/ It appears that their kit is based on the original Eagle/Alpha One molds. There was a significant problem getting the hood to line up with the front of the nose with these kits. Tom McBurnie http://www.thunderranch.com/gto.html solved the problem by moving the hood farther rearward toward the windshield so the area between the three front air inlets and the hood edge was wider thus reducing the warping in this area. He also mounted the hood to the radiator support using Corvette hood hinges which was much better than Joe Alphabets' (Alpha One) flange and bolt system. While he was at it Tom changed the shape of the nose, headlight covers and grill opening to more closely match that of most of the original GTO's. John Washington http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html solved the problem by modifying the original molds so the hood became a one piece clam shell. I speak from experience having spent hundreds of hours trying to get the nose and hood on my Alpha One GTO to fit properly. However, IMHO, I would not want a clamshell hood because it is not like the original and looks somewhat unfinished when the hood is open but some people like it. Make sure you carefully check out the kit for fitment problems before you lay down some of your cold hard cash!

FYI - There is another Alpha 1 GTO for sale on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-ALPHA-ONE-GTO-Ferrari-1962-Ferrari-GTO-1962-Replica-62-Movie-Star-ALPHA-ONE_W0QQitemZ4568028883QQcategoryZ6212QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I bought a Summit http://store.summitracing.com/ Mini High-Torque Starter 6 years ago when I built the car and it works great. Cost just over $150 (including shipping), brand new with a warranty, weighs almost half as much as the stock one and is much smaller. They have other starters too but mine is part number SUM-G1660A.

Wow Chelle, the car looks absolutely awesome!!!! By switching to the nose, adding to the wheelbase, adding the trunk and all the other little details it will make it really tough to tell the difference between your car and a real one. Are you using the trunk kit from Tom Edwards (Scorpion Z Cars)? Did you ever consider using a real Ferrari V12? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4553774636&category=6212 I am amazed by all the work you are doing to it. You may shame me into redoing mine. Please post a bunch of pics when you get it painted.

The Alpha 1 GTO and the Velo Rossa use the same headlight covers. The car you are looking at appears to be based on the McBurnie kit so it would use the Thunder Ranch http://www.thunderranch.com/ Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ or Scorpion Z Cars http://www.scorpionzcars.com/ headlight covers. I would contact Tom Edwards at Scorpion Z Cars (425) 353-0394 for any parts you need. John Washington over at Reaction Research http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html would be another good source for some parts.

Yes, you need some angle in the driveshaft. Pete has a lot of excellent information on this over on his site http://alteredz.com/ Click on "Driveline Modifications"

Your welcome! BTW, I didn't see it on their website but it is a national franchise. http://www.gastankrenu.com/

I agree 72zcar - 24" does sound a bit to long. My 1971 240Z, JTR 327 with a T-5 is 19 1/4" inches (because I slotted the JTR motor mount plates). So, when you can get the engine and trans installed, just measurement the distance and then go to the driveshaft shop.

II originally installed the SBC in my car using the Hooker kit. The trans mount was made out of tubing and it was U shaped so it could be bolted to the stock location. The U faced forward to make up for the engine/trans being placed in the forward (Scarab) position. I know the JTR transmission mount will work because you drill holes and bolt it to the floorboard. This gives you the option to place it anywhere you want. However, when I changed over, I tried to keep the Hooker long tube headers but they will not even come close if the engine is mounted using the JTR method. I would suggest you give serious consideration to using the JTR (JagsThatRun) method for installing your SBC. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Yup - I used my local Gas Tank Renu dealer about five years ago to do the tank in my 1971 240Z. They did a great job and I love the lifetime warranty. I have never had a probelm.

I do not think the '83 Camaro had a WC (World Class) T-5 because they didn't switch until '88. So the transmission you have will not handle a lot of torque. I think the max for a non-WC Borg Warner T-5 is 265 lb-ft with 300 lb-ft for the WC version and 500 lb-ft for the custom G-Force trans. And no, the T-5 doesn't like full-on power-shifting, particularly with sticky tires.

Yes, the Alpha and Velo Rossa use the same headlight covers and trim rings. However, the later McBurnie (Thunder Ranch), Rhino, Stable Autoworks, and Scorpion Z noses use a different shape headlight cover and trim rings.

Welcome Con Brio - It's always good to see new guys here especially if they have both a Hybrid Z and the GTO kit. I bought my Alpha kit from Joe Alphabet many years ago and know a little bit about them. So, please let me know if I can be of any assistance and good luck.

Give Tom Edwards http://www.scorpionzcars.com/ or Jim Simpson http://www.simpsondesign.net/ a shout. I bought my Nardi from Jim but I think they both sell Nardi wheels and Z car hub adapters.

At 3/4 of an inch you could probably just drill a new hole in the right place.

If you used the JTR method it shifts the engine over to the right just about ¾â€. This is to provide clearance on the driver’s side so the headers don't hit the steering column. I’d just slot the trans mount so it is centered and not worry about the engine. BTW, lots of production cars shift the engine over to the right (passenger side) for the very same reason.

Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes - water injection does increase HP. Please check out this SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Document: SAE Technical Paper 1999-01-2568 “Water Injection Effects In A Single-Cylinder CFR Engine†Excerpts – “Early designs of high compression ratio aircraft piston engines employed a water vapour induction system to increase the fuel anti-knock rating and engine output. With 10% injection of water1, during intake stroke fuel octane rating is boosted about 2 to 4 units with simultaneous increases in the engine output of 30 - 50 % [2, 3].†“Early designs of high compression ratio aircraft piston engines employed a water vapour induction system to increase the fuel anti-knock rating and engine output. With 10% injection of water1, during intake stroke fuel octane rating is boosted about 2 to 4 units with simultaneous increases in the engine output of 30 - 50 % [2, 3].†“All observations are attributed to a cooling effect due to the high latent heat of vaporisation of water and to a water induced slow-down of the combustion process. Direct test evidence on latent heat effects and on water induced changes in combustion rates does not yield homogeneous results, owing to various typologies of the engines used for experiments.†The fact that you can increase compression and timing further increases the HP. Fortunately, many computer controlled cars have knock sensors so they can do that today. This is why your car runs better and faster on a cool damp morning than a hot dry afternoon! And last, but not least, all WWII aircraft that used water injection generally used a 50/50 alcohol/water mixture. Not because England was cold but because, even in the summer, once you were above 15,000 feet it was almost always below zero.

DR_Hunt has it right. “Water injection just uses the latent heat of vaporization to cool the intake charge.†The latent heat effect is the same thing that makes air conditioning work. Although water injection is much more beneficial on turbo and supercharged engines it does provide for increased horsepower on a naturally aspirated engine. As the water changes from a liquid to a vapor it absorbs a huge amount of heat which cools the incoming charge, (BTW, the water turns to vapor so it does not increase the compression ratio). For a carbureted engine the rule of thumb is that, for every 13 degrees cooler the incoming charge is, there is a 1 percent increase in horsepower. Most water injection systems recommend you use an alcohol solution to reduce the possibility of freezing. Also, alcohol provides for an improved latent heat effect, since it evaporates at a lower temperature, and it does in fact burn. In general, today’s fuel injected engines tend to see even more improvement in horsepower because most of the on board computers can make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio and timing to take advantage of the denser charge. The "13 degrees cooler/1 percent increase in horsepower" is also the reason why you want to duct fresh outside air to the air cleaner instead of the hot under hood air. It's not unusual for there to be 80-100 degrees difference in the temperature.

It won't help Buds260Z since he doesn't have a tank but for someone that does a search here they might want to try Gas Tank Renu http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm They did a great job on my tank five years ago and it has held up very well. After they acid dip it in a hot tank they coat the inside and the outside of the tank with PVC plastic. So, you don't have to do it yourself and they provide a lifetime nationwide warranty as well!

I would strongly suggest you consider using the Eibach Pro-kit because they are progressive springs. I have them in my car and they made for a huge change in the ride quality. The nice thing is that, because they are progressive springs, you don't get a lot of lean in the corners.

Wow - hard to believe that it's been five years. I wonder if Ron Stoy will stop buy to wish us a Happy Birthday. Thanks Dan for making this site a reality and thanks to all the admins for keeping it a great site. HAPPY BIRTHDAY HybridZ !!!!!!!

Ferrari was having a problem with the rear of the car getting light at LeMans (and spinning the tires @ 160 MPH) so openings were cut in the rear quarter panels to stop the air from getting trapped in the rear wheel opening and causing lift. BTW, this was the first car to have a spoiler on the rear deck which was added for the very same reason - it's actually a pretty interesting story.

Sulla - We have two Manta's in our club and George Hutchinson has been known to drive it to work quite often in the summer but he always hopes for no rain because it leaks like a sieve. George owns the McLaren orange Manta and, if you want additional info on Manta cars, you can email him from our site http://www.usol.com/~hutch/profiles.htm

If you are looking for a Ferrari GTO type body kit you might try Scorpion Z Cars http://www.scorpionzcars.com/ Eric has some info on body kits over at ZParts (check out the coming attractions index link) http://www.zparts.com/indexes/inprogress.html I am very biased but I think the GTO kits make for an awesome car.

Has anybody seen or tried these Barry Grant SBC three valve aluminum heads? http://gadgets.autoblog.com/entry/1234000110022049/