SpeedRacer

Eric over at ZParts has a great shot of a V8 Z with cowl induction. http://www.zparts.com/events/wcn2002/promo/image/DCP_3341.html Cowl induction is usually the best way to go but not the easiest. Highest pressure area and of course the usual ~1% increase in HP for every 13 degrees cooler the intake charge is. The cowl area will help prevent water entry as well. BTW, I don't know who's car that is but it is REALLY IMPRESSIVE!

Yes, you should carefully set the driveshaft angle on your Z car V8 conversion. It is really easy to do if you use the JTR method since the angles are pretty close because of JTR's engine/trans mount designs. Pete covered this subject very well on his web site http://alteredz.com/

The NA$CAR boys usually call it "tight" and "loose" but I think Sterling Moss said it best. When you exceed the limits for a corner, slide off the road and go through the fence nose first - that's understeer. When you go around the same corner and go through the same hole in the fence BACKWARDS - that's oversteer!

I think the rheostat is not linear because: A) It has to compensate for the swing of the arm and More importantly, it also has to compensate for the differing volume in the tank because it is not just a perfect rectangle, (as Jolane mentioned). I adapted an aftermarket generic sender to mine and just made sure that full read “full†and when it read “empty†there was about two gallons left in the tank - which is the only thing I was really worried about. Yes, the gage seems to drop faster for the first half then the second half. I think it has to do with the shape of the tank because there is a lot less volume in the top “half†then in the bottom “half.†In the end it really doesn’t make any difference. However, the nerd in me thinks it sounds like an interesting project – good luck.

Most of you guys have seen mine before but here it is again.

There is a distinct advantage to using the 77-78 280Z factory door weatherstrip on a 240 or 260 (70-76 Z's). The 280Z weather-stripping doesn't require the separate welting, as it comes already bonded to this weatherstrip. Of course it will not look "original" but it is much easier to install and much more forgiving of different tolerances. It may not seem like much, but an added 1/32" or so that the plastic welting takes up, can cause a lot of door slamming. I think you will find that these factory seals will work on 99% of the cars out there. From what I understand, most early Z cars had at least one shim under each door hinge. However, sometimes the factory would add one under one or both hinges to get the gaps within Nissan production specs. On rare occasions they may remove a shim for the same reason. However, after 25 - 30 years things can and will change. Hinge pins and door strikers wear plus cars get involved in various situations that causes the body to flex - especially an accident. If you don't have at least one shim between each of your door hinges and the body there is a good chance that they where removed. You might try to add them back in as long as the front edge of the door doesn't stick out too far. BTW, sometimes you can loosen the bottom of the front fender and move it out to at least meet the door at the bottom. Moving the top of the fender can be done but is more complicated and my result in an undesirable gap between the cowl panel, A pillar and the fender. Hope this helps.

Guys, we have been over this one many times on this site and many other Z Car related sites. All the Precision (the green bag) weather-stripping fits and works very well everywhere EXCEPT the door seals. That's not a bad deal for the whole kit but just plan on buying the real Nissan door seals. Many of us have been telling Precision for years that their door seals are too stiff and too large. They keep saying that they are going to change them but they never have. If you install them you will be slamming doors forever - IF you can even get them to close!

I have the red MSD Blaster 2 on my car and the MSD sticker just peeled right off it. I would guess that the chrome one has the same sticker on it. Are you, or have you, added an MSD ignition to your car? Multiple Spark Discharge doesn't operate like a standard ignition and works better with a coil designed to handle the multiple firings. BTW, a coil could be rated at 1.21 million jigowatts but it will only produce what is necessary to fire across the gap of the plug. Who gives a rip about the resistance reading?

Thanks again guys for all nice comments and your votes - we will see what happens next week when they post the winner. Yes, the shifter is kinda long but I left it that way because the orginal was like that. "The GTO shifter, shown here in third gear. It, and the clutch, was easy to use after warmup although some drivers complained of throws that were too long for competition. All forward gears were synchromesh, using Porsche synchronizers. One of the few examples of detail beauty in the interior was the chromed shift gate plate, which is still seen on present day Ferraris. Fifth was a direct drive." Some day I plan on adding the chrome shift gate.

J. Soileau RB26zcar - Thanks for the nice comments but I don't think it can match yours. A twin turbo RB26 Z car must be one seriously fast machine, and a great sleeper too!

The second box down just below the title, should read "Login to Add Friend," "Nominate for Showoff," "Forward to a Friend," and "Report Abuse." You must be logged in and then just click on the "Nominate for Showoff†star icon or line and the CarDomain site will confirm your vote. Thanks again guys for your help.

Some how my car has made it into the top 25 cars in the CarDomain.com "Showoff Winner" weekly contest so if any of you guys are CarDomain members I would appreciate your vote. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/236622 Thanks in advance for your help.

Shasta - She hasta have gas, she hasta have oil, she always hasta have something!

Sorry guys, but the white car pictured uses a McBurnie type nose and the VR uses an Alpha type nose. The head light covers are different between to two and not interchangeable.

According to MorTec it could be a 1969 to 1980 - 302, 327 or 350 and it's either a 2 or 4 bolt block. http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm If it turns out to be a Z28 302 it should have a steel crank (which is worth some big bucks)! Looks like you will have to take a look inside.

Tom Edwards - are you out there? How did you set up the gated shifter you sell for your Scorpion Z cars?

When I built my car six years ago I bought a Precision weather-strip kit and was impressed with all the rubber that was included. I used most of it , however, I went nuts trying to get the door weather-strips to work without having to slam the doors. Adjusting and even shims did no good because they were too far off. When I talked to them they said "We are going to do a re-design within the next 1 or 2 months and we will send you some new ones when they are ready." Sounds familiar! As one might guess, I never got them.

Great games - and I still have all of them!

Not around Atlanta but up the road in Maryville, TN. ZBarn http://www.zbarn.com specializes in Z cars and Roger usually has around 250-300 Z cars in his yard. He also sells some new parts and I found him great to deal with. I don't know what you are looking for but give him a call.

Unless it belongs to somebody here it looks like another Nalle GT has been found http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Replica-Kit-Makes-Datsun-280Z-Nalle-Gt-Shelby-Cobra-Daytona-Coupe-Replica_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ7251QQitemZ4573634417QQrdZ1

Yup, I have a Tri-Power setup on my 327 Chevy and am very pleased with it. I quite often rev the engine to 7,800 RPM without any problems. The manifold is quite rare though. I couldn't fit the normal Edelbrock 3 - 2BBL manifold and carbs under the GTO hood plus it's only rated to 5,500 RPM. So, I opted for an old Offenhauser Corvette single plane manifold, which also flows much better, but I lost a little low end torque. The three carbs combine for just over 1,000 CFM and they make as much noise as the exhaust when you open them up! As one might have guessed I found the manifold brand new in a box on good old eBay. You might try Vintage Speed http://www.vintagespeed.com/ as well.

Sorry, Boy from OZ but I am not near New York. I'm located just North of Detroit in a town called Rochester Hills. If you do make it out this way I would love to show you & your wife my car. We might even go for a little ride if the weather is nice. Please let me know if you are coming this way.

I fully agree with y-not. The people from Dayton Wire Wheels http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/ are great to deal with. Hopefully they will ship down under but, if not, I am sure they can recommend a dealer that will. Unless the off-set was changed when any suspension/brake work was done you just have to make sure the knock-off hub adapter fits your vehicle. BTW, the have all the dimensions for the Z based GTO wire wheel kits on file. What I meant by "carefully check out the kit for fitment problems" is that you visit the manufacturer and see how the kit goes together and/or talk to someone that has assembled the kit and find out what problems they had. You can spend a huge amount of time trying to get the whole kit to fit together properly. And yes, my car is an original Alpha One GTO that I bought in kit form, many years ago, from Joe Alphabet before Ferrari shut him down. Good luck with your build.

WOW - 21 minutes to go and it's up to $49,900 !!!!!!!!!!!!

I am pretty sure this guy called me from NY looking for various pieces and it's obvious he found the very rare Kirtco Rocker Box valve covers!!!!!! At these prices maybe I should consider selling mine?????