Nigel

Good News! After I got the transmission back together and installed, I took the car for a nice strong run. I kept the revs below 4K and stayed out of the boost, but I gave the engine a good workout and put some load on it and... no more smoke or oily plug! I guess the rings just hadn't bedded in before. Happy again... Nigel '73 240ZT

I don't know who did the turbo. It was sent out by the shop that did my engine. Who ever it was, they did own up to the fact that they hadn't machined it properly. I'm sure it's fine now, it's just that with so much going wrong, I get worried. I spoke with my engine builder yesterday, and showed him the wet plug and described the symptoms. He said not to panic yet and put some more miles on it, but to keep a close eye on it. So, at least now he's aware of the situation. Now I just have to put my transmission back together... Nigel

I didn't have time to go to the shop today, so no input yet from the builder. I'd be awfully surprised if he screwed up the oil ring. He's been building these things for years. Not that mistakes don't happen from time to time... I wish I had one of those fiberoptic inspection gizmos. Then I could just look up at the valve and see if it's wet. Oh yeah, is there any way to tell if a bad turbo seal could be contributing to the smoke (no effect on the plug of course). I removed the down pipe to get the trany out, and the inside of the turbine is grey/black. There's noting obvious to suggest a seal problem there. I already had to send the turbo back because the seal had not been machined properly. I'm paranoid that it could still be leaking too. Thanks guys! Nigel '73 240ZT

A stem seal would certainly be more manageable. I'm going to see my engine builder tomorrow to talk with him and see what his opinion is. I've got the wet plug with me for him to look at. Still hoping for the best... Nigel '73 240ZT

No, that's not what I wanted to hear. *#%@&%$%#! This can't be hapening. It just can't be! The insulator on that plug is just shiny, not dripping wet. Is it really that bad? I'm not too certain of what the rings are made of. I can't find any specifics on the Dana web site. I had to pull the rebuilt transmission yesterday because the leading edge of half the teeth on the front countershaft gear have all chipped for no good reason! I managed to slice the back of my hand open on the pressure plate while I was removing the clutch to get at the rear main seal that's leaking! I swear I could have rebuilt 5 Z's in time it's taken me to do this 1! Nigel

I have a rebuilt l28 Turbo engine in my '73 240Z. The engine has new cast Nissan pistons, perfect circle rings, Clevite 77 bearings, 1mm HKS metal head gasket, ARP fasteners all around, and complete head work. Turbo is a T3/T04 hybrid. Engine management is SDS. I've got about 50 miles on it so far, and three things that may be related have got me rather concerned. The first thing I noticed is that when I rev the engine, I see a puff of grey/blue smoke. Secondly, I checked the plugs and number 5 is wet (or, at least damp) and it smells like oil (as best I can tell with my alergies). All the others have a grey/tan color. The third thing I noticed is that the top of the number 5 piston is competely clean! All of the others have carbon deposits. Now, I've read that a rebuilt engine may smoke and oil foul plugs until it gets broken in. Is this true? And what about the fact that that piston top is completely clean? Is this what you'd expect to see with an oil fouled plug? It seems kind of strange to me, but I've never had a car with a rebuilt engine before. Out of curiosity, I did a compression test on #5 and it's two neighbours and they all came out dead even at 150. I put a timing light on the #5 plug wire and it flashes steadily, so it should be getting spark. I'm kind of wondering if that injector may be clogged (original 20 year old injectors). I did put a screwdriver to it, and it does click away nicely. Hopefully you guys will be able to reassure me that this is all normal for a fresh engine. I sure hope so, because this whole restoration project has been one problem after another and it's been draging on for years. I just want to drive the damn car! Thanks!!! Nigel

I realize that it's been a few days since you posted your question, but seeing as no one else has replied yet, I'll respond. The simple answer to your questions is that the Toyota 4x4 conversion does not work with ZX's. Sorry! Nigel

The MSRP for the Dual SBC is $550! The Hallman is $50, and you can build your own for under $10. If you don't have a need for multiple boost levels, I'd stick with a ball valve controller. Nigel

Try a ball valve controller instead like the Hallman Boost controller (http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com). It blocks the signal to the wastegate until the desired pressure is reached and therefore, no wastegate creep. I'm running one on my Subaru Legacy Turbo. Boost level is rock solid and spool-up is excellent. There are also some sites out there for DIY ball valve controllers if you want to save some $. Nigel

Rats! I was looking everywhere for aftermarket mirrors. I have reskinned doors, and there were no cutouts for the stock mirrors. I wanted something other than stock anyway, but all I could find were the MSA corner mount mirrors. I bought a set half price, but if I'd seen these CF mirrors, I would have gone with them. I don't really care that they're CF, they just look cool! Nigel '73 240Z Turbo

My 240ZT and my Subaru Legacy Turbo both idle at around 18 in hg according to the mechanical guages I have in each. The reading on the 240ZT is backed up by the reading from the MAP sensor for the SDS computer. So, I'd be inclined to believe the MAP sensor in your car. But a lot depends on your engine setup. I'm running a stock ZXT cam with a '75 280Z intake manifold with a stock ZXT 50mm throttle body. Idle speed is 1000rpm. So, there's a point of reference for you... Nigel '73 240Z Turbo

I've had great success with the kalecoauto.com "O" Pipe: "You've heard of the Y pipe.. the X pipe.. the H pipe.. nothing can touch the O pipe!!! It provides 100% backpressure feedback on ALL engines!! Torque increase and kuneutson valve float brings in much lower revs so you don't hurt your motor! Pipe shown is powdercoat black for car with DUAL EXHAUST. Not CARB Legal. Please specify Stainless or Powdercoat and also if you are using dual or single exhaust. 3" diameter." Nigel

At our club sponsored drag event a few weeks ago, most of the normally aspirated Z's were in the mid 14 to mid 15 second range. They were dusting many of the mid-80's Mustangs and Cameros, even moded ones. Now, these aren't stock Z's mind you. But they were only sporting typical mods like cam, headers, exhaust, carbs, etc. The fastest was a supercharged Z which ran a 13.36. As for the Turbo six, that's what I have, and the engine and driveline was a direct swap. Nigel

I have T3/T04 turbo and I didn't have any clearance issues, and my manifold was even shaved slightly. Are there different sizes of the T04 compressor housings? Nigel

Hey Scott (ZR8ED)! I noticed you and Edmarc (300+ hp 300ZX Turbo) both had a lot of trouble with way too much wheel spin off the line. Like Scottie suggests, I think a softer launch is the key. Lavern did a best run of 13.36 (supercharged 240 dynoed at 200 hp for those who don't know), and he's only got 215 street tires, and he didn't do a burn-out first. And no, you wont get much boost with your tires spinning away madly Cheers! Nigel

Hook one wire to a switched 12V source (hot with ignition in "on" position - you don't want it powered 24-7), and the other to ground. The purple wire goes to the gauge as you already know. That's it. Nigel

WooHoo!!! I got my Turbo back today. It turns out the builder screwed up and didn't machine something properly. I'm back on track... Nigel

It seems to me that another way you could make a rough calculation of the weight at each corner is to multiply the area of the contact patch of the tire by its air pressure. You could estimate the contact patch using 4 pieces of cardboard placed on the ground around the tire, pushed up tight to the tire, to form a rectangle. Then just measure the length and width of the rectangle to get the contact area. I don't know how acurate it would be, but it would be pretty fast and easy to try. Nigel

I just did a search on the local autotrader website, and there were 90+ C4 Vettes for sale compared with 0 Z's! Why would you want to make a beautiful and rare classic like a Z into a dime-a-dozen bland C4 Unlike a Ferrari, the C4 is cheap and easy to find. A waste of a good Z IMO. Nigel

So, my plan was to mount the SDS ECU on the driver's side kick pannel (to the left of the clutch peddle). I have a 240, so that would involve drilling a rather large hole (1 1/2" max) through the firewall in order to fit the wiring harness connectors through. The question is, how do I seal up the hole? I've looked through a couple of electronics catalogues, but I don't see any grommets big enough, and none that will actually seal around the wires like the grommet for the factory wiring harness. I might be able to get a 280Z FI harness grommet, but in case I can't, I'd like some suggestions... Thanks all! Nigel

Heat the vice-grips? Ouch! Well, to up-date you all, I striped the threads on one of the studs. I think I'm just going to hand the manifold over to a machine shop and let them pull the studs and machine the gasket surfaces. I don't want to waste any more of my time on this! Nigel

I double-bolted the studs, and torched the manifold real good, but the studs just start to twist. I guess 20 years threaded into a cast iron manifold with countless heat cycles and exposure to the elements have entombed the studs. If one breaks, it's a lot of time and money for a questionable return. I think I can tidy the gasket surface up well enough that it will seal ok. Thanks for the ideas though! Nigel

Well, I chickend out. The studs just weren't budging, and I had visions of broken studs, machining costs, and lost time. I'll just have to work around the studs in order to clean up the gasket surface. Thanks Tim Nigel

I'm trying to freshen up the gasket surface on the exhaust manifold where the turbo bolts up, and the studs are getting in the way. I've tried removing the studs, but they won't budge, even after torching the manifold. I just want to confirm that they are threaded into the manifold and not pressed in. Anyone know? Also, does anyone know where to get replacement studs, should one break? They're stainless, and it's next to impossible to find an M10 stainless fastener with a 1.25 thread pitch. Thanks! Nigel

Courtesy Nissan is selling them for $150. I haven't been too impressed with MSA lately. For example, they were selling cylinder head stud kits for something like $180, and you can get the same thing through Summit Racing for a little over $100. Nigel