J__

mineral spirits dont do well in spraying? anyone use mineral spirits as a thinner for spraying this stuff?

on the original thread ppl have been using 8/2 paint to mineral spirits to thin it for rolling. what ratio have you guys been using for spraying? and do u spray it layer by layer (spray 1 layer, let it dry, spray another)? or just 1 thick layer?

if ur goin to replace the tierod also then the sledgehammer way works well. but if not, u MIGHT run a risk of messing it up with a sledge hammer. up here in canada we can borrow automotive tools from canadian tire. whne you borrow it, u pay the full price of the tool. then when u return it, they give u all the money back = free use of tools. not bad eh. i went to ca tire and borrowed their balljoint tierod puller. pretty much looks like a jaw like clamp and a long bolt in the middle. u just anchor the clamp and turn the bolt. the bolt slowly presses the tierod out. it wont budge until eventually u hear a loud gunshot and get the crap scared outta u. then voila. done. no damage, no sweat, and no broken bones or suspension parts. takes like 30 seconds. i would invest the time to go find the proper tools.

yea to me it makes more sense to have it this way. im assuming its the right way having the tapered way pointing down because in the haynes manual and the factory Z manual the diagram all show the bump stop pointing down. so im assuming it poins down hehe

ok im about to ask a couple of stupid questions lol. im in the process of putting my car back together, do i need to press the ball joints and tierods back into the knuckle with a press? or do i just put it in by hand and tighten the nut until it cant be tightened anymore? 2nd question is for the bump stops, i have the hyper flex ones from the bushing kit, its tapered at one end, im goin to cut them a bit to allow more travel. but can i put the bumpstops in upsidedown? the tapered end should point down towards the ground i assume. but the flat end doesnt allow the bump stop to sit flush at the top because the inside of the spring upper seat is curved. if i bottom the car the bumpstop will get pushed into the seat the the curved edge will rub and destroy the bump stop. im pretty sure thats how the old ones broke apart. from looking at one of the remains, the top of the bump stop corroded away from rubbing against the top of the seat becuase it was flat and the seat was curved. i drew a picture to show it better... did it at 4:40 am freehand so it's not straight and looks like crap lol dont laugh #1 is the bump stop pointing down like it should, but the flat end doesnt sit flush with the curved upper spring seat so the sides rub the bump stop and eventually it'll probably discintegrate. #2 is turning the bump stop upside down so it sits properly

awesome work! they sure look alot better and functional than these... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-82-DATSUN-240-260-280-CRYSTAL-PRJ-HEADLIGHTS-LIGHT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQitemZ8037639843QQrdZ1

?? you want to do a bmw headlight conversion onto a Z? they wont fit unless you do a complete front end revamp.... that would make the Z look HORRIBLE! if u just want to swap over the round chrome part, whats the point? 1, they are different size and 2, u can get "crystal clear" 7" ones already on ebay and other places that fit the Z directly. these bmw lights dont have projectors so there's no real need to do the conversion, unless u want to put in the whole headlight... then.... uh.... NO DONT DOOO IT!!!!

ohhhh.... well i guess the previous owner already replaced the nuts b4. cuz my nut doesnt look like that. i thought peening was the glue crap that was on the bolt. i guess it was glued before too. lol ima noob

how do u peen it? wat is it? glue?

im goin to begin reinstalling my suspension back onto my Z over hte weekend. for the rear axle nut, is it ok for me to just use thread locker (like loctite) with the old nut? i destroyed the peening(?) when i took the nut off. tia

i would definately NOT use a metalic paint for this roller method... it'll look like crap. if ur goin to spray it then its fine.

^^^ hmmm good point about the brake line. thats scarier than any road debris..

a high density roller doenst have fibers. its like that sponge material girls (or guys depending on profession) use to put on foundation. the white triangular ones. very VERY fine grained and small holes. no fibers

im doin the 4x4 front and disk brake conversion in the back. im wondering if the dust plates in the front are required? wats the advantages of having them on/off. i can imagine having them on would protect againts degris or mud from getting at the vents.... but having them off would save some weight (uh...) and provide better cooling. but then again with the backspacing on my new wheels i have plenty of cooling.... lol i want to keep the dust shield off but since the rotor actually sticks out that much, susceptable to oncoming road debris (as opposed to the "protect" rotors protect by the wheel on rims with more backspacing), is it better to keep the dust shield on?? tia

all the info is stickied at the top of the brake/suspension section.... all the parts number too.. take time to read all the posts and pages, including all my posts, because i asked some stupid questions that u might ask lol. gluck http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735

s12-8 brakes + 4x4 brake kit from ross @ modermotorsports tested for fitment with the new wheels and talk about venting + brake cooling

all i can say is whoa...... anyone wanna try this? read the whole thing. its the guy with teh orange charger and the beetle... its amazing... for rolling on paint.... http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

u dont need to drill the rockers.. theres holes letting u access them already on the inside of ur car. just lift up ur carpet and u'll see large holes all along the inside of ur rocker

ty! yea marine paint seems liek a good idea, its alot lighter than herculiner...

to prevent rust etc etc. i've decided to go with herculiner but the idea of using marine paint popped in my head. ive tried to search but havent found a member that used marine paint. boats and ferries are in salt water 24/7 and the paint seem to last very well. anyone have experience or tried using it intead of undercoating to prevent rust/corosion etc etc? tia

dayz: yea i love photography, i'll be taking the z out for a shoot for sure once im done with it. reason i don twant undercoating is i'll be daily driving the sucker, lots of rain and stuff up here. if it chips from rocks (its soft) then the water'll get stuck underneath =( i wanted something hard so bedliner was suggested by many members it seems. matsonjb: thnx! awesome, i'll order from em. how much is 1 qt? i need a can thats like 954ml one of those small ones. is that a qt? or is 1 qt spray can size i didnt use zero-rust or por15. i just sprayed primer, then brushed on som plasti-kote no rust paint. yea my autobody buddy thats helping me with the project told me to brush on the paint to save some money. cost me $15cdn for a can that lasted both the wheel wells and underbelly with more than half can left to spare. but the thing is the damn paint is so thick now haha. its like a layer of laquer over the wheel wells... is that bad? a thick layer of top coat? i dont want to strip it again =*( edit: how many quarts of herculiner do i need for 2 wheel wells and both undersides of the floor pans?

ok so for my wheel wells and under carriage i stripped off the old undercoating, repaired some rust, applied primer, then paint, and now im goin to apply a bedliner. i did some searches here and on classiczcars, ppl have suggested herculiner as a great product. i went to the local lordco but they dont carry it. neither does canadian tire. but lordco does have a product called Gator Guard 2. similiar product as herculiner. claims to be the top 3 sprayable bedliners and has the dominion sure seal ltd. anyone have experience with gator guard? is it comparable or up to par with herculiner? thnx edit: it's epoxy based (not sure what herculiner is) there is also another one called Hippo Liner only diff is that it's urethane based. is epoxy better than urethane?

see the LS7 under the hood? ~.^